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Number Ten.

I

irtuk

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Ed
If I am totally honest we had a couple of practice jobs between number 9 and this one but it was worth it as I think this has come out really well. my best work yet.

It's Beaufort Black Ebony Alternative and I have gone with the same material for the section, previously I have been using the synthetic ivory. It's got a Bock #5 bi-colour medium nib in it but that will be swapped for a silver one.


_REM5727.jpg

The matte finish on the section is a bit rough. I need to work out how to get a smooth matte finish. Also it looks like either my lens or my sensor needs a good clean!

Ed.
 
I

irtuk

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Themackay said:
Looks good Ed ,Are you using tripple start?
Click to expand...

No I didn't spring for the triple start die set, I think I was looking at a hefty bill already and I had not actually made a pen at that point

Once I have my process dialled in fully and know exactly which dies I need they will probably be coming. Just looking now and I can't see an M16 triple lead so I need to work on M10 & M14 sections & barrels which currently I am not having any luck with, only tried a few times though.

Ed
 
I

irtuk

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oh yeah and I didn't know what a die holder was so I was freehanding everything. you can imagine how that went.
 
T

Themackay

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irtuk said:
No I didn't spring for the triple start die set, I think I was looking at a hefty bill already and I had not actually made a pen at that point

Once I have my process dialled in fully and know exactly which dies I need they will probably be coming. Just looking now and I can't see an M16 triple lead so I need to work on M10 & M14 sections & barrels which currently I am not having any luck with, only tried a few times though.

Ed
Click to expand...

I am toying with the idea of trying kitless just cant decide which way to go with taps and dies
 
I

irtuk

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Themackay said:
I am toying with the idea of trying kitless just cant decide which way to go with taps and dies
Click to expand...

My advice from the last few months would be to start with an M12 thread on the tenon of the section and an M16 thread on the barrel and cap. That's working for me right now. I want to get that down to M10 / M14 but that's going to take some practice. I need to buy some blanks that I really don't like!

You absolutely need a tailstock die holder that slides forward on its mandrel as the die advances.

Don't be tempted to buy a cheap die set off amazon. They are more for metal work and start down at M3, which is of no use, and run up to M12 ish. The acrylics don't take threading as well as metal, they have a tendency to shatter and chip, you have to be very precise in your measurements so good quality tap and die sets are a must.

Pick your nib first as well, and work up from that. you can calculate what your sizes should be from that. For example the Bock #6 requires a 7.3mm tap to the inside of the section, give yourself at least 1mm thickness takes you up to 9.3mm so an M10 thread on the tenon is possible ( I can't manage it yet but its achievable! )

I don't know if you can go M10 on the section tenon and M12 on the cap. it might be possible. More experienced folks might be able to chip in on that.

Ed.
 
T

Themackay

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irtuk said:
My advice from the last few months would be to start with an M12 thread on the tenon of the section and an M16 thread on the barrel and cap. That's working for me right now. I want to get that down to M10 / M14 but that's going to take some practice. I need to buy some blanks that I really don't like!

You absolutely need a tailstock die holder that slides forward on its mandrel as the die advances.

Don't be tempted to buy a cheap die set off amazon. They are more for metal work and start down at M3, which is of no use, and run up to M12 ish. The acrylics don't take threading as well as metal, they have a tendency to shatter and chip, you have to be very precise in your measurements so good quality tap and die sets are a must.

Pick your nib first as well, and work up from that. you can calculate what your sizes should be from that. For example the Bock #6 requires a 7.3mm tap to the inside of the section, give yourself at least 1mm thickness takes you up to 9.3mm so an M10 thread on the tenon is possible ( I can't manage it yet but its achievable! )

I don't know if you can go M10 on the section tenon and M12 on the cap. it might be possible. More experienced folks might be able to chip in on that.

Ed.
Click to expand...
I was looking at them on Tracy tools but in a way feel that might be money wasted that I could have put towards the tripple start etc.The cheapest ones are carbon steel then HSS 3 times the price
 
I

irtuk

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I said I would switch out that bi-colour for a silver nib and it arrived the other day, here's number 10 completed.
10.jpg

10 capped.jpg

Ed.
 
Phil Dart

Phil Dart

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Looks great with the steel nib Ed.

I read your reply to Alan in which you say you have trouble with chipping threads. Your Number Ten is made from GPS Ebony Alternative I believe, which is a polyester blank. Polyester is terribly prone to chipping when threaded, and you've done extremely well to keep them in tact on this pen in my opinion. Polyurethane is much, much easier to thread, and much, much less prone to chipping.

The polyurethane equivalent to the the blank you used would be Semplicita Jet Black, which you might want to try next time
Semplicita SHDC Jet Black acrylic pen blank - 150mm
Or in fact, if you remind me next time you place an order, I'll make sure we pop a sample in your parcel for you
 
Penpal

Penpal

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Every day a lesson for me and cheers provided by determined makers Ed yourdisplay proves your ability and the detail in your pics is out of box magnificent.

Peter.
 
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