Friction polish as a finish

I've got my hard hat on and I'm prepared for the backlash. You may feel I'm being contentious, but I have just got to say it, so here goes..... (and I should point out that this is my personal opinion based on my experience over decades, as a woodturner and pen maker, it is not representative of any company I might happen to own or a shallow effort to flog a different product)

I see many, many pens on this forum, where the finish is stated as friction polish.

Friction polish, whether topped with microstylene or not, or anything else for that matter, has no resilience whatsoever. It is intended to be used on decorative pieces that are made to be looked at on a shelf or in a cabinet and not handled. A pen that is being used, which is finished with friction polish, will lose its shine within a matter of days, maybe even hours and will be back to bare wood not long after. A pen sitting in a case not being used will continue to shine for ever and a day, and fool you into thinking its a great finish. However, your customers will have a different opinion once they start to use it, and it's not an ideal way of securing repeat business.

There, Ive said it.

Friction polish is essentially shellac mixed with waxes and other ingredients to make it easy to apply on the lathe.

Consequently it has all the characteristics of French polish. Resistant to knocks but totally vulnerable to anything else.

So I agree Phil, friction polish is not a hard wearing finish for pens. I never use it on pens I am going to sell.

Trouble is it is easy to apply and gives an immediate hgh gloss. Could this be why people continue to use it?

I agree 100% Phil but it does seem a popular finish !!!!

What's the answer then chaps, and don't say CA :nonono: there's got to be another way

Good question Ray

When not using CA (which is becoming more often these days) I use acrylic or melamine lacquer (liquid not spray) applied with the lathe running, buffed with burnishing cream or Farecla and given a coat of microcrystalline wax. You can also use something like this which combines the burnishing and waxing in one operation.

I have also been trying Craftcoat from Vince and I can get a good finish with it but not sure about its longevity yet.

Drechseln and Mehr pen finish gives a durable finish but it is not high gloss.

Walter said:

Good question Ray

When not using CA (which is becoming more often these days) I use acrylic or melamine lacquer (liquid not spray) applied with the lathe running, buffed with burnishing cream or Farecla and given a coat of microcrystalline wax. You can also use something like this which combines the burnishing and waxing in one operation.

I have also been trying Craftcoat from Vince and I can get a good finish with it but not sure about its longevity yet.

Drechseln and Mehr pen finish gives a durable finish but it is not high gloss.

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Walter why do you use microcrystalline wax on top of a finish when it will wear off in due course??
I generally use a CA finish on wood and finish with Farecla and with acrylic I finish with Farecla and that is it. I may be wrong but I can't see the long term benefits of wax as the final finish???

Microcrystalline wax protects against fingerprints Terry. (Works on the metal parts as well as the wood/acrylic).

That's the only reason I use it.

Edit: I agree it has no long term benefits but keeps things looking good until sold.

How long do you have to leave the craftcoat between coats Walter?

Walter said:

Microcrystalline wax protects against fingerprints Terry. (Works on the metal parts as well as the wood/acrylic).

That's the only reason I use it.

Edit: I agree it has no long term benefits but keeps things looking good until sold.

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I have always been puzzled by this as a lot of pen turners seem to use it but you will never see it on a Parker pen or a Mont Blanc pen for example !!!

Terry, I'm going to try the method for ca you told me the other day when I get chance

rayf6604 said:

Terry, I'm going to try the method for ca you told me the other day when I get chance

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Go for it Ray and please buzz me if you have problems !!! Don't forget extraction for the fumes LOL

I like my one coat of CA plus.

Peter.

Phil Dart said:

How long do you have to leave the craftcoat between coats Walter?

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I have been using a similar method to Ed Brown from Exotic Blanks in this video, about 30 seconds or so between coats:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhsR9XpES-8&feature=youtu.be

Oooh! Thanks. And are you personally finding the need to sand and buff or could that be reduced by using maybe a different application medium? (sponge doesn't seem the best applicator to me)

Thanks Phil for bringing this up.
One point I would like to make about the alternative/s to friction polish is the need for a buffing operation.
The Craft Coat method uses a buff to finish so that means I'm out on this method.
So I guess it is the CA finish I need to apply to get a hard wearing coat ?

I keep trying to like using CA, honest. but so far find it very hit and miss. But I hear and see so many Youtube videos and articles extolling the virtues of friction polish then next day it's all change and I hear a totally different view. I am a relative newcomer to pen turning so value experienced opinions greatly. But hell it's confusing.

The second pen I made was for my son. He was over the moon with it. That was done with CA and somehow by fluke got it right. However I didnt finish off with the polishing pads. I did him a matching pencil the other day donned my hazard suit and looking like a fireman going into a chemical fire got the dreaded CA out to finish it. This time I went through all the micro pads and finished with a nice car polish. It was gleaming. His comment was "looks nice but I prefer the pen as it looks more natural"

Phil Dart said:

Oooh! Thanks. And are you personally finding the need to sand and buff or could that be reduced by using maybe a different application medium? (sponge doesn't seem the best applicator to me)

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Haven't needed to sand or buff off the lathe. I applied it with blue paper towels, the same way I apply everything. Polishing with burnishing cream does the job for me.

Terry said:

Go for it Ray and please buzz me if you have problems !!! Don't forget extraction for the fumes LOL

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If you don't mind me asking , what method do you use Terry ?

Walter said:

Haven't needed to sand or buff off the lathe. I applied it with blue paper towels, the same way I apply everything. Polishing with burnishing cream does the job for me.

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Thanks for that Walter - last question (maybe) do you find you need to wait the 24hrs that Mr Brown mentions before burnishing, or can it be done after a shorter while (by which I really mean straight away)?

Friction polish may not be a hard wearing finish but I have used it on pens for those customers who, over time, want to see the patina of the wood change, friction polish is ideal for this.
Personally, I also like to see wood darken with use and also like a nice shiny, hard wearing finish too, I prefer spray acrylic lacquer from Halfrauds etc. Tried the liquid stuff that Walter mentions but can't seem to get a decent finish out of it.