Source of 5.5mm x 0.5

Hi All,

Eventually I want to make kitless pens and I'm looking ahead.
If I use Jowo #5 nibs I need a 6.5 x.5 tap. These seem to only available from Silverpenpart at $30 + $15 carriage. That's £26 in real money.

Is there anywhere else these can be bought from that would save the 50% carriage charge. I know with the $->£ (1.7-> £) it's a good time to buy but they're still a tad expensive on carriage plus the risk of tax on entry to to the UK.

Cheers

Andy

PS This has probably been asked before. I did a search for 6.5 in this section but nothing came up.

It a really weird size try ringing drill service horley they may be able to get one they dont have it on there site but some times can get things http://www.drill-service.co.uk

Another way is to get one made

Is that a price for all the taps needed to put these thread in?
You should have a starter intermediate and a finishing tap.
Not such a bad price if that's the case.

Just re-read your post thats a good price they are probly custom made

Grump said:

Is that a price for all the taps needed to put these thread in?
You should have a starter intermediate and a finishing tap.
Not such a bad price if that's the case.

Click to expand...

Brian, I would also like to make a kitless pen but am no engineer and the only thread I've ever touch before was whilst sewing the button on my shirt in the mob. What is the process for cutting a thread? and taping a hole?

Paul it's not rocket science but if you have never done it then a bit of learning is in order for you init?
Here is a tube to watch

Here is a tube to watch
How To: Tapping Screw Threads - YouTube
There are many to choose from

It depends on the material you are taping into as to the requirements to make a thread.
In my sets I have one die of each size that can be adjusted to pinch a bit more material with every pass so I gauge the depth of thread by how much material I take out.
The taps are a set of three for each size comprising of a starter tap which tapers to get a bite on the material and forms the track of the thread.
The next is an intermediate tap which enlarges the track and starts to form the thread by taking material out.
The third is run up the track taking more material and forming the complete thread at full depth.
Done this way to keep the tools from overheating and or getting too tight at any point and breaking.
Lubrication helps to cool the material and tool and eases the action of threading

Hi Paul.
I have had to get these size tap and dies I America as there are not to be found in the UK or Germany, where a lot of pen parts are made. Good Luck

Oooo I forgot
A lot of very good Tutorials on You Tube on Fountain Pen making.

Hi All,

Sorry about the incorrect size in the header.


They list it as "This tap fits the current Meister Nib style #5 feed assembly and the Schmidt roller ball conversion feed. Use a "B" drill bit for this tap." implying that there is only one tap.

I've just emailed then regarding the set or no set. I'll post the response.

Cheers

Inky

Hi All,

Just got a very prompt response from Silverpenparts.

It is a plug tap only which if used in plastic and held well should be OK.

From the previous responses I take it that they're not available elsewhere?

Cheers

inky

M5 is the metric measurement of 5mm diameter the .5 refers to the gap between threads.
So it is a 5mm fine thread not only available in the states but any good engineering suppliers will get you a set.
they are only supplying one tap which you can use to some degree of success with care but we come back to a quality issue here.

Thanks Brian and Andy,

I've just got to have a got at this... I can already see things that are going to be threaded onto my desk

I would like to know what set I need for pens please Andy when you find out.

Grump said:

M5 is the metric measurement of 5mm diameter the .5 refers to the gap between threads.
So it is a 5mm fine thread not only available in the states but any good engineering suppliers will get you a set.
they are only supplying one tap which you can use to some degree of success with care but we come back to a quality issue here.

Click to expand...

Thanks Brian, do you know what the standard sizes are (if there are standard sizes) from making pens? I guess there are 3 different sizes needed for some.

There are no standard sizes of taps and dies anymore.
Since the chinks got involved in manufacture a thread finder is out the winda now.
The link Inky gave has the sizes used for certain pans but that can change from batch to batch with them.
If you are making your own pens you can use any size you wish, just keep records of what you use on which pens in the event of a repair init?
I have to get busy before my Drain comes home but will come back to this later and show some pics init?

Grump said:

There are no standard sizes of taps and dies anymore.
Since the chinks got involved in manufacture a thread finder is out the winda now.
The link Inky gave has the sizes used for certain pans but that can change from batch to batch with them.
If you are making your own pens you can use any size you wish, just keep records of what you use on which pens in the event of a repair init?
I have to get busy before my Drain comes home but will come back to this later and show some pics init?

Click to expand...

Thanks Brian... a mans work is never done

Inky: Note that the tap you need is NOT an M5, it is in fact an M6.5 - a very odd animal indeed! I don't have one, as I epoxy the feed housing into the section of the pen. Probably just me excusing myself for being a tight git! I think I can say with some confidence that you won't get that tap as a standard piece anywhere on the planet - Mike Redburn's (Silverpenparts) price is reasonable but will almost certainly attract duties and an exorbitant admin fee from Royal Mail, so budget that in too.

Paul: You need a few taps/dies, as follows: Manufacturer-specific tap to thread the feed housing into the section. Bock, Jowo and Schmidt all use a sightly different standard - what a surprise. (I don't do this, I just epoxy the feed housing into the section, which is essential in any case if you are using the barrel of the pen as your ink reservoir).

Tap and die for the section-to barrel thread. Commonly an M9 or M10 by 0.75 or 1.0 (relatively easy and cheap to come by).

Tap and die for Cap-to-Barrel thread. Boy - now HERE'S a can o' worms! Commonly and M12 or M14, BUT ... commonly a triple-start thread. So ... M12 or M14 by 0.8 x 3. Again, almost impossible to get, you can try silverpenparts, Richard Greenwald, Indy-Pen-Dance or any of the other boutique pen makers' shops, or you could wait for a group buy thread on IAP (which happen more frequently than you might think). You need a matching tap and die, and the going rate seems to be about $150 ex shipping/duties/Royal Mail kiss-my-ass fees.

OR, you can do what I do - use an M12 or M14 by 0.75 single-start (i.e. bog-standard) thread, which means that you have to turn the cap once or twice more to fully close it. Oh, the HORROR! Interestingly there are a few major pen manufacturers who stick with single-start threads (and not a few Penmakers Guild makers too) so you would be in good company - although looked down upon by the aficionados on IAP.

And Brian thinks that kits are a hornet's nest - oh the wonders of kitless that await the unwary soul!

Hi All,

To answer some of the points.
I did spot the error in the title but was to late to correct it. I'm aware it has to be 6.5x0.5.
I guess from the comments that this is the only place to buy it from if you want to use Jowo nibs and beware any import duties etc. I've managed to have some items from the states delivered without such issues
All the rest of the threads can be whatever you like. I happen to have a few BSB taps and dies which are 26tpi and so probably OK for cap/body and probably section to body at least.

So let me change this all around.
I would like to make kitless pens. What good quality nib units are available ie what do you guys use, and are the fitting kit ie taps etc available.

Cheers

Inky

Here is a pic of my m6 x .5 fine thread taps as you can see the lead track is furthest back on the starter (taper) tap.
The intermediate (second) tap is nearer the tip and the finish (plug) tap is all thread.



Using the three in this order gives a quality thread that can be relied upon.
Going straight in with the plug risks splitting the blank or overheating and melting it and gives a rough thread as it bites off too much in one go.
Worse still this can happen and it's a bugger when it does as more often than not you ruin the workpeice in getting it out as well as not having that tap any more init?



Learn from my mitsake and get a set not an individual plug tap.
If it's worth doing blah blah.
Whilst I would never wish to contracept young JIMJAM who is vastly more experienced in homebrew fountain pens than I.
I have complete sets of 0.5 and 0.75 from M3 to M8 taps and dies in 0.5 graduations purchased from one of 3 places in the UK but I ain't sure if it was Chronos engineering, RDG tools or Bedford saw company.
I can't see them in their cats now but I did have to enquire by Tellingbone to get them so maybe a ring round could prove fruitful init?

I don't have a Zeus book to hand, (liar, I found it ) but I reckon a 1/8th BSP tap and die set would give a pretty good thread.
1/8th BSP tapping drill 8.75mm (0.3445") thread pitch 26 TPI (26 threads per inch about 0.035" pitch).
Barrel o/d 13/32" (0.406", 10.30mm).
1/4 BSP is about 1/2"O/D

Don W
PS These taps and dies can be purchased at any plumbers/engineers stockist fairly cheaply.