3 more practice pens + 1 that went wrong

[Lons]

Bought 5 mixed slimlines off ebay whilst waiting for my TB order so had another go and happy that the finish is getting there.

Andrew gave me a credit card pen kit so tried that and my wife has pinched it - so yet more brownie points (which means less questions about expenditure) The bottom half of the barrel could be thinner as it looks a bit unbalanced to me now.

I aslo tried one of my Mistral blanks and was very pleased with how it turned and the finish but disaster when I pushed in the mechanism when a piece broke off. I guess I was a bit careless and looking at it suggests a lack of glue (CA).

Is there a way of retrieving the nib and mechanism or do I write it off? Cap is ok and as no probs matching I could just turn another barrel. I've seen dismantling tools - are they worth it when kits are relatively inexpensive?

Bob

 

[Neil]

Bob,

You can salvage the kit by getting a thin rod and poking it down the pen from the mechanism end and locating it on the edge of the nib end located inside the tube and then a few taps with a small hammer will remove the nib, then reverse the pen and using a 6mm rod tap the mechanism out. Then you can put the tubes back on the mandrel and using a parting tool remove the debris. Alternatively salvage the bits that you can and throw it away. Worth getting some spare tubes next time you go to axminster for such eventualities.

As for the lack of adhesion on the blank, I know that others use CA and will argue its success, but I always use 2 part epoxy and I havent had that happen to me.

 

[paulm]

Hi Bob, I've got a dismantling tool which does work to some effect but I would just chuck it and do another but having said that it would be a good exercise. All you need is a piece of metal rod that will fit through the twist mechanism and then hit it with a mallet to get the nib out. then you can try to hit the mech out with a thicker bit of rod or a drill. Or drill a piece of wood that just fits over the mech but is longer than the mech then put the drill into the end the wood over the mech and squeeze I the vice until it pops out. Then try fixing the blank... maybe turn the broken bit off and add another piece of wood that contrasts.

Just a thought...

 

[Lons]

Thanks Neil
I'll have a go tomorrow. I've been using gorilla glue on the wood blanks but really should have used epoxy on the mistral. Won't make the same mistake again though it's down to me not the CA I'm sure. I've got some extra tubes on my TB order as they seemed pretty cheap.

Bob

 

[PhillH]

Well, you are getting the hang of the finish for sure :up:

Nice pens.

 

[Grump]

Walter did a very good tutorial on how to dismantle slimlines.
I believe it's in the tutorial section.
Buy a set of transfer punches and you have all the kit you need for pen dismantle plus much more.

The others are all good pens well done init?

 

[Woody]

Well done you I'm with Brian on this one transfer punches and you are set for dismantaling most kits

 

[sbwertz]

Dismantle it and put the blank back on the lathe and turn off the damaged end square and all the way to the tube, leaving a short piece of brass tube exposed. Then drill and glue a contrasting piece of blank onto the end of the blank to replace the turned off portion. Turn the contrasting piece down to blend into the existing blank. Everyone will think you did it on purpose!

 

[Jim]

Your style for the slimlines is good Bob, and the finish is good also, so nothing to worry about there ... Regarding the breakage i would bet it was due to the inside of the tube carrying some residue from the CA used, so when you came to fit the mechanism it caused the plastic to crack under pressure. When using CA with any kit it is important to keep the glue away from the inside of the tube. I normally use a potato to block the inside of the tube which has served me well over the years ...

The transfer punches that Brian mentions are very good indeed for the dismantling of kits ...

 

[edlea]

Good pens and good finishes Bob ...shame about the last one.

 

[Grump]

Here are the links to what I was talking about
Walters tut is here
Transfer Punches here Shop around to find the best price on these.

 

[rowdyyates115]

Your style for the slimlines is good Bob, and the finish is good also, so nothing to worry about there ... Regarding the breakage i would bet it was due to the inside of the tube carrying some residue from the CA used, so when you came to fit the mechanism it caused the plastic to crack under pressure. When using CA with any kit it is important to keep the glue away from the inside of the tube. I normally use a potato to block the inside of the tube which has served me well over the years ...

The transfer punches that Brian mentions are very good indeed for the dismantling of kits ...

Like your pens, finishing is good. One of my tips : When I assemble my pens I always run through the tubes with a very fine file to make sure all glue has been removed before pressing the parts.
And for my acrylic / polyester blanks I always use 2 part epoxy. Hope this is of some help in the future.

 

[Lons]

Jim and Terry

I bought a pen mill to square the ends off and thought the centre bit is supposed to clean out the inside of the tube. Do they not do this proberly? I have some round needle files so no problem using these also if necessary.

Bob

 

[Penpal]

Nothing wrong with Gorilla Glue I use it in clear and poly form, epoxy as said by Neil is excellent I apply it both in the blank and on the brass tube using a slice of potato prior to gluing and cleaning. that I poke out using a skewer stick (the blunt end) mind you I have used most glues successfully , generously its messy but lots of tissues and patience. A well known demonstrator used to say use the glue as if someone else gave it to you and finishes as well. The only glue I wont use for brass inserts is CA since I had two stick part way in lots of mucking around spare brasses and time taken to rectify. I bought a set ofaround 1/8th inch needles used for rust impacting with a group one time they are hardened to drift the tips out of Slims and a piece of close fitting rod for the winding mechanism. The tricky part for me was handholding the top to remove the clip with the same rod, thats where the removal kit comes in handy.

The tip by Sharon is a good idea for your fail one and I have a stock of two hundred spare brasses that enable me to have lots of glue ups without opening kits and sometimes awaiting kits also I often glue up about 50 at a time.. I bought them at a bulk price. I now use the glue opened at the top not relying on the squeeze aspect my dearly beloved has been using this technique for years in her craft work its quick and less losses than squeezing out in a dish.

Instant success with your slimline receiving your thin one by the wife I agree with her choice.

Have success Bob kind regards Peter.

 

[Penpal]

Bob, just noticed your problem with glue in the tube etc find a close fitting drill recess into a handle so that the drill protuding is less than the length of the tube and use it from either end of the blank this might sound anal but at least it cures that problem. The idea of shorter than the tube it saves reaming your other hand when you clean out a lot of commercial units are longer and take a section of hand the first time you forget.

Kind regards Peter.

 

[edlea]

Jim and Terry

I bought a pen mill to square the ends off and thought the centre bit is supposed to clean out the inside of the tube. Do they not do this proberly? I have some round needle files so no problem using these also if necessary.

Bob

In a word no ...always check the inside of the tube even after using a barrel trimmer.

 

[fionaspens]

Lovely pens Bob. CA finish looks good. Andrew likes to use Titebond polyurethane glue to cement his brass tubes in place and spends ages roughening them with coarse sandpaper. Like Jim he fills the ends of his tubes with raw potatoe and uses a wooden kebab stick to butter the inside of the blank with glue before inserting a glue covered brass tube rotating it as he does so. He hates using CA glue for tube cementation and avoids it wherever possible. Others seem to manage but his jerky hand movements often lead to the tube getting stuck half and half out ~ which is a waste of a good blank ~ he also gets more fractures like yours. As Jim mentions ~ always check the inside of the tube carefully for glue residue and remove ~ Andrew uses a parallel sided chain saw blade sharpener for this job (looks a bit like a round file) and works a treat. Keep up the good work and we look forward to seeing more of your pens in the future. Kind regards Fiona.

 

[Jim]

Jim and Terry

I bought a pen mill to square the ends off and thought the centre bit is supposed to clean out the inside of the tube. Do they not do this proberly? I have some round needle files so no problem using these also if necessary.

Bob

In a word no ...always check the inside of the tube even after using a barrel trimmer.

Exactly what Ed says Bob, it doesn't take much residue in the tube to cause you this issue, when you are pressing in the accents and feel any sort of bind take heed, this is telling you that something isn't right ..

 

[Terry]

Bob, just noticed your problem with glue in the tube etc find a close fitting drill recess into a handle so that the drill protuding is less than the length of the tube and use it from either end of the blank this might sound anal but at least it cures that problem. The idea of shorter than the tube it saves reaming your other hand when you clean out a lot of commercial units are longer and take a section of hand the first time you forget.

Kind regards Peter.

I do the same as you Peter with a close fitting drill but I also use a tapered reamer to take off any burr on the inside of the tube that may be caused by squaring the blanks on a sander. I think it also gives a slight lead in when pressing the parts into the tubes !!!

 

[Lons]

Thanks again fellas (and Fiona). Now just have to sneak a "taitie" out of the veg basket when the boss isn't looking.