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A couple of Spalted Beech JR pens
- Thread starter johnny5
- Start date
Beautiful pen Johnny :itscool::itscool:
I to have been really impressed with TB Jr gents, can't fault it for the price
I to have been really impressed with TB Jr gents, can't fault it for the price
bluntchisel
Registered
Very nice, Johnny! And yes, provided it's not too soft spalted beech does make nice pens.
Bob.
Bob.
Bob, I have a confession, whilst making these pens the end of one of them split exposing the brass tube., had to sand the edge to correct it, leaving one pen 5mm shorter than the other,
I was hoping to sell as a pair bur buggered that one up.
Very nice pens and very well presented Bob. Pity you had to shorten one but I'm sure they would still sell as a pair. After all pencils are longer so why not have a fountain pen longer and roller ball shorter?
bluntchisel
Registered
Ha, Johnny! Big of you to confess but don't let it bother you. Most folks would readily accept your explanation re different lengths is due to one being a f/p and the other a r/b. If there's nothing wrong with them then sell 'em, matey! (Or split them up?)
Re the splitting - unfortunately spalted beech (and some other spalts) suffer from a softness problem. Avoid the rubbish that is almost as soft as balsa!!! If buying from ebay, etc always ask the seller what the consistency is like. My experience is if you can sink a fingernail into a blank without resistance then bin it. A precaution you might adopt is to turn the blank nearly to right size then put the chisel away and go in with the sandpaper. This won't necessarily stop the nib/centre/cap ends from fraying but it's worth a shot. If it fails so be it - you wouldn't have gotten a pen from it anyway! You can also try to stabilise soft wood but I've never had much success - save this method for when a blank flies apart while turning - hopefully the bits will glue together again. Hope this helps.
Bob.
Re the splitting - unfortunately spalted beech (and some other spalts) suffer from a softness problem. Avoid the rubbish that is almost as soft as balsa!!! If buying from ebay, etc always ask the seller what the consistency is like. My experience is if you can sink a fingernail into a blank without resistance then bin it. A precaution you might adopt is to turn the blank nearly to right size then put the chisel away and go in with the sandpaper. This won't necessarily stop the nib/centre/cap ends from fraying but it's worth a shot. If it fails so be it - you wouldn't have gotten a pen from it anyway! You can also try to stabilise soft wood but I've never had much success - save this method for when a blank flies apart while turning - hopefully the bits will glue together again. Hope this helps.
Bob.
Looks good Johnny
does look good that, nice one
I agree at first glance they look good John. But, but.. sorry there has to be a but when I'm not sure about the finish..
But,, Sorry but I have had a closer look and the rollerball (second pen picture) looks as though the barrel is turned slightly off set. not sure if its the picture and how its taken but it look as though there is a overturned step on the top on one side and on opposites at the other end. There is always a but mate but whenever I look at it that is all I can see,,,,,,, Sorry...
And the only other point I would say is "wipe you big mit fingerprints off" before you take a picture... can see them on both pen ends .. Sorry Just me being picky...
But one thing I would say bis the fountain pen looks stunning and both pens presented really well..
You can banish me to the naughty boy room if you want too...
But,, Sorry but I have had a closer look and the rollerball (second pen picture) looks as though the barrel is turned slightly off set. not sure if its the picture and how its taken but it look as though there is a overturned step on the top on one side and on opposites at the other end. There is always a but mate but whenever I look at it that is all I can see,,,,,,, Sorry...
And the only other point I would say is "wipe you big mit fingerprints off" before you take a picture... can see them on both pen ends .. Sorry Just me being picky...
But one thing I would say bis the fountain pen looks stunning and both pens presented really well..
You can banish me to the naughty boy room if you want too...
Always ready for constructive criticism , life would be boring if everyone was nice ,
have a good day
Sorry John.
don't mean to offend, might be the pictures.. (Apart from the big finger prints..
)Nice set mate well done.
Penpal
Grand Master
Johnny,
Overall the two pens will sell whether as a companion set or separately I commend Bobs observation and Hi Ho Silver who appears to have some means of enlarging and seeing around corners that I do not have or would choose to do, am grateful for everyones comments but still feel the acid test is in the hands of a potential buyer allowing them the last word after all you will be surprised if you allow the customer to get involved a whole new approach will come into penmaking. Bit like chinese whispers too many cooks and all that.
Kind regards Peter.
Overall the two pens will sell whether as a companion set or separately I commend Bobs observation and Hi Ho Silver who appears to have some means of enlarging and seeing around corners that I do not have or would choose to do, am grateful for everyones comments but still feel the acid test is in the hands of a potential buyer allowing them the last word after all you will be surprised if you allow the customer to get involved a whole new approach will come into penmaking. Bit like chinese whispers too many cooks and all that.
Kind regards Peter.
I've never had any luck turning spalted beech all my efforts to date have turned out dirty or grubby looking ..no where near as clean as yours.
Have to agree with Eamonn though the rollerball does look slightly out of true on the picture.
Have to agree with Eamonn though the rollerball does look slightly out of true on the picture.
After sanding Ed wipe the wood over with white spirit on a cloth and clean of all the black dust that is contaminating the wood then finish when it is dry
Neil
Fellow
Ed,
As per Woodys post, alternatively sand with the grain, light burnish with a yellow nyweb to clear the crap but be careful not to mark the soft wood and then spray with acrylic (preferred) or cellulose sanding sealer. Then finish with friction or whatever. By creating that barrier between wood and finish, the finish doesn't discolour the wood. Works well with all woods that aren't very dense such as walnut.
As per Woodys post, alternatively sand with the grain, light burnish with a yellow nyweb to clear the crap but be careful not to mark the soft wood and then spray with acrylic (preferred) or cellulose sanding sealer. Then finish with friction or whatever. By creating that barrier between wood and finish, the finish doesn't discolour the wood. Works well with all woods that aren't very dense such as walnut.
Neil
Fellow
Forgot to emphasise the spray, not the liquid