Tyke121
Apprentice Member
Hi ,Does anyone use an acrylic buffing system you can buy for the lathe with 2 wheels and blue buffing compound ,I’m going to try my first acrylic and wondering if it’s worth buying one ,Thanks
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Morse
Graduate Member
Hi Ian.
If you put “finishing acrylic “ in the search box, top right, there are a number of different answers there.
My own method of finishing is to dry sand to 1000 grit then use burnishing cream. Finish with microcrystalline wax.
I’ve done two part pens, one part micro meshed to 12000 and the other done as above, then asked colleagues to spot the difference. They couldn’t tell the difference.
One colleague used the buffing system, but to me it was an additional use of time.
I’m open to being shown a better way that gives a comparable finish.
Dave
If you put “finishing acrylic “ in the search box, top right, there are a number of different answers there.
My own method of finishing is to dry sand to 1000 grit then use burnishing cream. Finish with microcrystalline wax.
I’ve done two part pens, one part micro meshed to 12000 and the other done as above, then asked colleagues to spot the difference. They couldn’t tell the difference.
One colleague used the buffing system, but to me it was an additional use of time.
I’m open to being shown a better way that gives a comparable finish.
Dave
Tyke121
Apprentice Member
I’ll search that ,Thanks
Hi Ian, you will get so many different answers to this question.... personally I like the KISS method in anything I do.....
So for me with acrylic I sand through to 1000, remember to sand both radially and then laterally....wipe the blank between grit changes.....then I use Farecla car/boat polish in various grits....when done correctly it's very quick, cheap and shinny.....
But as I said others will have their own views......nothing is right or wrong if it works and gets you where you need to be.....I know someone who uses toothpaste as a polish...uhm minty
So for me with acrylic I sand through to 1000, remember to sand both radially and then laterally....wipe the blank between grit changes.....then I use Farecla car/boat polish in various grits....when done correctly it's very quick, cheap and shinny.....
But as I said others will have their own views......nothing is right or wrong if it works and gets you where you need to be.....I know someone who uses toothpaste as a polish...uhm minty
Penpal
Grand Master
IMHO the resultant finish you give should be judged after say a six month period. Wax etc finishes are temporary if the pen will be in use. Shut up in a box or cupboard is no place to infer superior or inferior. There are many acrylic blanks that respond differently,if you wish to go this route make your own stand alone shaft with buffs etc . Buying ready made units recommends should come for you from the UK. There are many members up your way who could give their opinion.
Enjoy finishing it is the final result and very important.
Kind regards Peter.
Enjoy finishing it is the final result and very important.
Kind regards Peter.
Morse
Graduate Member
Mark.
Are you entering that pen in POTW ?
Dave
Are you entering that pen in POTW ?
Dave
Morse
Graduate Member
Repeat post?
Last edited:
wm460
Grand Master
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2013
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- 23,113
- First Name
- Mark
I have a beall 3 buffing set up but only use 2, I dont use the Carnauba wax one any more, dulls the finish from the first two. 
Chriscb
Full Member
Afternoon Ian,
After a while searching for good acrylics to use on pens (some are not good) I finally settled on a particular type. Then searched for the best way to finish the work. So the short answer to your question is 'No I don't.'
I use 240 - 12000 grit with lemon oil as a lubricant spinning at about 1200 rpm, sometimes starting at 320 if the tool finish is good. Sanding both radially and longnitudinally. After the last grit I use lemon oil again to clean the work, then spin it really fast to dry it off. I then use Meguiars Scratch X as a final top coat. The effect is excellent and it doesn't take too long to achieve.
Chriscb
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Les ELm
Executive Member
I found out years ago that so called "Buffing Systems" are a waste of money and valuable time.
I do all my polishing and buffing while the blank is still on the lathe that will get a better polished
finished than any buffing system out there.
Les
I do all my polishing and buffing while the blank is still on the lathe that will get a better polished
finished than any buffing system out there.
Les
I dry sand from 100 grit to 400 grit then use 0000 wire wool. I then polish with Farecla 300 & 500 finishing cream like Mark.
Hi
As Mark said, there are as many answers as there are members. My way is to sand to 2500 (ish) grit then buff with the Beall system finishing with the White Diamond. I used to wet sand but not anymore.
I have enjoyed good results with Brasso as a final polish. Many people use car body finishing products; they seem to work well. I can't comment on Polyester though, never used it. I used another method for wood blanks though.
Best of luck and let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Frederick
As Mark said, there are as many answers as there are members. My way is to sand to 2500 (ish) grit then buff with the Beall system finishing with the White Diamond. I used to wet sand but not anymore.
I have enjoyed good results with Brasso as a final polish. Many people use car body finishing products; they seem to work well. I can't comment on Polyester though, never used it. I used another method for wood blanks though.
Best of luck and let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Frederick