• Thanks for visiting The Penturners Forum today.

    There are many features and resources that currently you are unable to see or access, either because you're not yet registered, or if you're already registered, because you're not logged in.

    To gain full access to the forum, please log in or register now. Registration is completely free, it only takes a few seconds, and you can join our well established community of like-minded pen makers.

Advice for finishing ebonite?

rayf6604

Registered
Joined
May 1, 2014
Posts
2,726
Location
Narrowboat dweller Willington, Derby
First Name
Ray
My favourite was plastic polishing compound, Farecla Profile 200,300 and500. I seem to be remember ebonite being a bit more difficult to finish than acrylic but I'd be inclined to dry sand through the grits to at least 600, maybe 800, then I'd use the farecla starting with the 200 then 300 then 500. Worked for me :thumbs:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Bigblackdog

Registered
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
839
Location
Leeds
First Name
Mark
by coincidence, the polish that I have is the farecla. I don't have the 200, only the 300 and 500. For both ebonite and acrylic, I wet sand to 320-400, and then apply the polish. Going to 600 wouldn't do any harm, but I wouldn't bother with the micro mesh grades. Black is probably the hardest to finish, partly because it shows up every imperfection, but my black material seems harder than any of the coloured stuff that I have turned- maybe a higher carbon content.

Other polishes may work- that is the only one that I have used.

You will be rewarded for careful turning, and for making sure that every trace of the previous grit is removed. Remove the scratches, and the dust produced at each stage. The 120 grit gouge doesn't seem so useful on ebonite. If I have a bad day on wood, I can often rescue it with sanding (as long as it isn't too close to the finished size). On ebonite, I would rather leave it to another day and try to correct the mistake with a tool. maybe that is just me.
 

Bigblackdog

Registered
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
839
Location
Leeds
First Name
Mark
I think that if you can get a good finish on ca and on acrylic, then it isn't worlds apart. Your method should work fine.
 

rayf6604

Registered
Joined
May 1, 2014
Posts
2,726
Location
Narrowboat dweller Willington, Derby
First Name
Ray
I also found I got better finish by being very thorough during the sanding, buy sanding each grit with the lathe spinning then sanding up and down the barrels with the lathe off before moving on to the next grit, to make sure I had removed all the scratches left when the lathe was spinning. I realise that is just good practise but I found it really did help. Of course, care is needed to ensure that the material isn't over sanded and you end up removing too much :whistling::thumbs:
 

Phil Dart

Moderator
Executive Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Posts
5,491
Location
Colebrooke, Devon
First Name
Phil
Keeping the heat down is key with ebonite. If you overheat it through sanding at too high s speed, the surface will bloom and you'll never revive it.

I've had good results by sanding to 1200 wet and dry (used wet) the burnishing with Chestnut burnishing cream. Buff it with clean tissue until every trace of residue is removed. I have no experience of Farcela, so I have no idea if its preferable, but that's the method I employ.
 

Gregory Hardy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2017
Posts
454
Location
Upper New York State
First Name
Greg
Using the burnishing cream while the work is mounted on the lathe, correct? (You're not using a buffing wheel?) I don't have any experience with either of the products mentioned in responses...
 

Gregory Hardy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2017
Posts
454
Location
Upper New York State
First Name
Greg
Thanks to all for responding. I have learned many of these lessons already (i.e. "heat is bad," "black is difficult") the hard way. I will take all of your information back to the "mad laboratory" and set about Trial Number 37...or 38...I've lost count. Thanks again.
 
Warning! This thread has not had any replies for over a year. You are welcome to post a reply here, but it might be better to start a new thread (and maybe include a link to this one if you need to).
Top