Advice needed finishing burr elm bowl

[Lons]

Been hiding from the MIL so in the workshop today and finally got around to turning a rather nice but rough bit of elm burr.
There are a few tear outs to rectify and some sanding lines to take out but I'm happy enough with the shape and daren't take any more off 'cos I've had a few iffy moments already and I don't want to wreck the thing at the last minute.
Impatient as always, I've given it a couple of coats of sanding sealer to see if it was going to look ok so will sand that down and do what Woody does with CA and dust to fill the holes.

What I am unsure about is what finish to put on it and how best to apply. It's 30 years since I turned a bowl out of burr and not as rough as this so a bit lost. Advice please?

I don't have a buffing system set up but could easily rig one as I have what's needed if it's the best method btw.

 

[GeordieB]

Danish oil Bob if you have the patients

nice bowl mate

 

[Woody]

Same here Oil be it Teak for a gloss finish or danish for a satin finish apply with a brush leave for about 5 min then wipe off the excess one coat a day for about a week

 

[Lons]

That's George.
I'll be the "patient" alright if I bugger it up 'cos the missus wants it.

 

[Lons]

Thanks Woody
I'll try danish then. Will be a couple of days before I get back to it as the missus won't allow me into the workshop tomorrow.
Do you just use a soft brush in the voids to polish it up?

 

[GeordieB]

Yeh Bob and when you wipe off the excess use a lint free rag

 

[Woody]

Thanks Woody
I'll try danish then. Will be a couple of days before I get back to it as the missus won't allow me into the workshop tomorrow.
Do you just use a soft brush in the voids to polish it up?

No need to polish it up Bob it will shine on its own use a soft brush to get the oil in all the crooks n crannies and while you're using it on them parts you may as well use it on the rest but dont forget after 5 min remove the excess

 

[Dalboy]

I would go the same route as Woody. Just a note on buffing mops I find that they can leave bits suck on the rougher peices which makes it unsuitable for a lot of burrs

 

[Grump]

As much as I hate to argue at Christmas time I disagree with oil on this occasion init?

If you have already used sanding sealer and are going to use ca filling voids, oil don't gonna take on top of that.
I would either carry on with ca and finish in that or spray cellulose lacquer to finish it.
Oil to soak in and nourish the wood if it's bare wood but not on a sealed surface mate that's like putting water on wax, wasting your time IMHO.

 

[GeordieB]

Bob said he was going to sand the sealer off Brian and only put it on too see what it looked like

 

[Lons]

That's a fair point Brian, typical of me being too impatient as usual to wait. I may well look at it in a couple of days and take so more off which is when the whole thing will explode. Depends how brave I'm feeling! If I did manage then I'd be back to bare wood apart from the voids.

The pics on the lathe make it look very chunky when it actually isn't. It's about 210mm across and 55mm deep inc the foot and the inside of the bowl down 40mm at the bottom. I daren't take it off the chuck 'cos the foot has voids and I can't guarantee to centralise it again, with I'd opted for a recess instead now.

 

[Penpal]

Looking better now mate.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

Looking good Bob.

 

[Lons]

I'm just off to bed Mark (1 am) and it's cold and windy outside. You're 9.5 hours ahead of us so must be geting pretty warm now? not that I'm jealous or anything. Time to go out and kill a roo for dinner.?

Happy Christmas mate.

 

[wm460]

40C Near midday, trying to modify a new clutch cable on my rotary hoe giving me the Shiites. No longer can gets the parts for it, can't even the right size drive belt, ??


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[wm460]

Merry Christmas to you (b) (b) (b)


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[bluntchisel]

Whatever you decide - that's an amazing piece of burr! We'll have no way of checking this but I reckon this bowl will still be around in a hundred years. It's gorgeous, and will always be too good to get rid of. Family heirloom there, Bob - well done, mate!

Bob.

 

[Neil Lawton]

I'd be tempted to use a hot wax finish on this, and leave the voids as they are.
This is a technique pioneered by John Hodgson.
http://www.john-hodgson.co.uk/index.html
You apply beeswax to the wood, then melt it in with a heat gun. Keep re applying and melting, until the wood is virtually saturated.
John works mainly with wood in the green, but you wouldn't know it from the fantastic work he produces.

 

[Lons]

That's interesting Neil, will definitely look at that, many thanks for the link.

I've done similar with furniture over many years, I think the first was an oak table I made 40 years ago and I put at least a dozen coats of old fashioned beeswax polish on in a few hours. The surface was amazing. Used the wifes' hairdryer as I didn't own a heat gun if they even existed in those days.

 

[Lons]

Okydoky, decided to go for a danish oil finish so took off all the sealer and this is it after a couple of coats. Will work on it over the next couple of weeks but I'm happy with it and the missus is delighted so win win.

Now.... I have a lump of briar I don't quite know how to sort for the best so will be asking for ideas soon...