• Thanks for visiting The Penturners Forum today.

    There are many features and resources that currently you are unable to see or access, either because you're not yet registered, or if you're already registered, because you're not logged in.

    To gain full access to the forum, please log in or register now. Registration is completely free, it only takes a few seconds, and you can join our well established community of like-minded pen makers.

Aluminum in pens?

bassethound

Executive Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Posts
7,581
Location
East Sussex
First Name
Ted
Do any of you guys use Aluminium strips or whatever in pen making?

I have found a few ally bits that were left in my Bin a couple of years ago by fitters that did our Solar Panels and i was thinking that i would cut em up and save some of the good usable bits into strips, any advise as to the best way to do it would help! this is the pics of one of them!

ScreenShot011.gif
ScreenShot012.gif
ScreenShot013.gif

It is just under 2mm Thick!
 

paulm

grave manibus faciendum
Registered
Joined
Oct 7, 2013
Posts
12,046
Location
Sandford
First Name
Paul
I have used some, I've made a complete pen from it, but its not the easiest material to turn. It looks nice when its finished though.
 

brody2123

Fellow
Joined
Feb 13, 2014
Posts
3,058
Location
redditch
First Name
Brody
Yep, like it a a material. Best off using a carbide tip to turn it, but hss tools do the job. Scrapers work well on ally. Try a spray finish, that will give you an even coverage.
 

Woody

Registered
Joined
Jul 12, 2013
Posts
12,812
Location
at home
First Name
no
Same as Paul its well worth the effort it can shine up like stainless steel this one is about 3 years old
26.JPG
 

bassethound

Executive Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Posts
7,581
Location
East Sussex
First Name
Ted
I was thinking Of cutting it up in strips because of the odd shape and using some for segments as it's quite thin, I have got a
Aluminium blade that will fit my Table saw so I may make a jig to cut it into bits, Will see what happens, Maybe several bits if anyone want's any free, otherwise the bits will be chucked!
 

Buckeye

ペンメーカー
Executive Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Posts
9,697
Location
UK
First Name
Peter
You can cut aluminium with your normal blade just take it slow, aluminium cuts easier than some woods. When you are sanding wood blanks with aluminium in them, make sure you use lots of sanding sealer as the aluminium dust can make the wood look dirty, so keep applying it after wiping the blank down. I have always found that turning it fast and using a skew will give the best results, but I have used carbide tips when there is more aluminium than wood.

Peter
 

Buckeye

ペンメーカー
Executive Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Posts
9,697
Location
UK
First Name
Peter
I have used epoxy and CA, what you have to be careful of is the heat which will make both of those fail if it gets too much, just take it slow and keep feeling the aluminium if it is too hot for your fingers it will fail and you will get blisters if it is just about to fail:funny:

Peter
 

Buckeye

ペンメーカー
Executive Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Posts
9,697
Location
UK
First Name
Peter
Done a few Ali pens, also done a few Ali segmenting. Remember as Peter says take it really, really and I mean really slowly.

The glue will melt if it even thinks about getting warm..

Link to one of my Ali jobbies

http://www.penturners.co.uk/turning-pens/1656-short-pencil-aluminium.html

I haven't seen that, it's lovely, well done, I like the satin finish, can you remember how you did that, I have only buffed it and got an almost mirror finish, which is okay, but I like your finish.

Peter
 

Grump

Grand Master
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Posts
10,510
Location
Stevenage
First Name
Brian
Yep done it many times, That looks a bit thick for segmenting with. A couple of layers of beer can is enough.
 

Jim

Grand Master
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Posts
15,617
Never used anything thicker than a can, though if you have a saw with a 2mm kerf a Celtic Cross would look nice in a pen made with the Ally .. :thumbs:
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,304
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
The finish is not polished.

Once it was finished to size and polished with t cut I soaked it in caustic soda.

Washed off and then built up..
 

Buckeye

ペンメーカー
Executive Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Posts
9,697
Location
UK
First Name
Peter
Thanks for that, I must try it.

Peter
 

bassethound

Executive Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Posts
7,581
Location
East Sussex
First Name
Ted
Well I stuck a bit of the Aluminium on a crap bit of Elm with Epoxy and managed to turn it without it failing so i am well pleased as it's a first for me! didn't bother about sanding much or anything else as it was a test to decide yes or no of throwing the aluminium
so i will now cut it up into bits and save it, even the kit bits are old bits out of a rubbish box in the shed but it'll do for me to lose in the shed:down:
ScreenShot001.gifScreenShot002.gif
 

Buckeye

ペンメーカー
Executive Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Posts
9,697
Location
UK
First Name
Peter
That's good, you could also make centre bands to your own design.

Peter
 

Neil

Fellow
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
3,137
Location
Hitchin, Hertfordshire
First Name
Neil
Alumiinium used for extrusions is usually 6063 or 6061 grade. ^063 is a lot softer, 6061 being twice as hard. Beer cans and the like are made from a much lighter and softer alloy, usually the 1000 series - they are really soft. The finish on Ally can vary according to which grade you use. 6063 is given the name architectural aluminium as it gives a much smoother surface than other grades and has an element of corrosion resistance. Those who tell you that Aluminium doesnt corrode are wrong! Most aluminium provides an oxide coating that provides the protection on exposure to oxygen, the difference between corrosion on steel is that the corrosion - rust - is itself aggresive and it will eat into the material whereas the oxide on aluminium will normally stop the corrosion. However, Aluminium provides that resistance not of its own accord but as a result of the differeing levels of silicon, manganese and others that are mixed during the smelting process.

Woody got a cracking finish on his pen and I suspect but could be wrong that it is 6063 alloy, its a good bet as it does account for about 60% of the aluminium in circulation.

Glue to bond aluminium to wood - CA is not a good idea. The reason for this is that the catalyst for the exothermic reaction that is the curing process for CA is moisture and it does not bond well to metal despite the fact that many continue to use it to bond tubes to blanks. It will adhere but it is a very weak bond. CA works well with porous surfaces, metal is not porous, and vice versa will not give up moisture to initiate the curing process.
 

paulm

grave manibus faciendum
Registered
Joined
Oct 7, 2013
Posts
12,046
Location
Sandford
First Name
Paul
Geez Neil, that's very interesting, you were the Oracle on wood but now on metal too :thumbs:
 
Warning! This thread has not had any replies for over a year. You are welcome to post a reply here, but it might be better to start a new thread (and maybe include a link to this one if you need to).
Top