-
Thanks for visiting The Penturners Forum today.
There are many features and resources that currently you are unable to see or access, either because you're not yet registered, or if you're already registered, because you're not logged in.
To gain full access to the forum, please log in or register now. Registration is completely free, it only takes a few seconds, and you can join our well established community of like-minded pen makers.
Ambrosia Maple Burr Omega in Gold
- Thread starter johnny5
- Start date
That a lovely blank Johnny and nicely turned
Nice job is the finish a bit rippeld or is it the flash..nice shape to it.
Nice one mate
Les ELm
Executive Member
A bit of a rough finish on a piece of timber with lots of character.
Les
Les
chas_41_uk
Registered
Nice looking pen Johnny
Penpal
Grand Master
Many years ago I nsaw an ad for Ambrosia Maple searched far and wide exotic name beaut timber in the raw you wonder what the fuss is but turned and polished it is bewitching as is your pen mate.
Peter.
Peter.
wm460
Grand Master
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2013
- Posts
- 23,128
- First Name
- Mark
Great looking pen Johnny.
Chillicamper
Registered
Classy looking pen
Looks a nice piece of wood Johnny, however there is either something being caught from the camera and lighting or the finish is not quite been finished as good as you normally do..
Another nice pen Johnny.
Neil
Fellow
Johhny,
On many forums it is protocol to note on every posting C and C, as in Critique and Comment Welcome, but we don't, thankfully, have that here. I hope that anyone who does post is happy to have anyone have a pop at it or inversely, commend it. It would only be an egotist who posts a picture of a pen and doesn't invite criticism, as not to accept criticism would be to only invite praise, and that, at times, when it is most certainly not warranted.
To that end please take my comments on your pen in the manner I intend them, as positive criticism through which we can all benefit and better our turning and finishing skills, and by all, I do mean all, from the novice through to the most experienced, after all, every day is a learning day, and when its not its time to get in our box.
Its a lovely pen, after all, its an Omega! but the finish hasnt complemented your turning skills. I dont know what has happened but there are quite clearly undulations on the CA finish. I think that there are several factors that assist in leaving a penmaker with a super smooth finish. The first is the choice of CA. Some swear by thick, some by thin, and some dilute it with BLO. I apply it neat by holding the towel over the top of the mandrel and gently putting a very thin continuous stream on the paper towel as the lathe turns at 850 rpm. This is the right speed for the viscosity of the glue. It ensures that with one swipe across the blank I get even coverage and the return swipe removes any ridges. Continuous and excessive sideways movements removes all the CA leaving you with a very thin coating and a CA laden paper towel.
The back and forward movements must be kept to a minimum to leave the CA on the pen not the towel.
The speed of the lathe must be matched to the viscosity of the CA.
Thereafter a quick sand with 240/320 and 400 before the Micromesh gives a sound base for the polishing process. Dont forget that there is no point at all going higher than a wet and dry sand of 400 as the micromesh sanding grade of 1500 is somewhere just above 400, the two scales are not the same. The use of BLO as a lubricant when mixed with the CA will provide a smoother surface that doesnt need as much sanding back, but it will take a hell of a lot longer to apply and so many more coats. More thinner coats doesnt (unlike varnish) mean a better finish, it just takes a lot longer (in my opinion).
Once the 400 is completed, go through the Micromesh to 12000 and then I use Chestnut Burnishing cream, I find it cuts better than Liberon, but Liberon does have a better wax within the burninshing cream. You should get an unblemished mirror finish.
Hope this helps, as with everything woodturning, the best solution for an individual is a balance of everything he or she is using to achieve their aim, so what works for me might not for you. Adjust and amend to suit.
On many forums it is protocol to note on every posting C and C, as in Critique and Comment Welcome, but we don't, thankfully, have that here. I hope that anyone who does post is happy to have anyone have a pop at it or inversely, commend it. It would only be an egotist who posts a picture of a pen and doesn't invite criticism, as not to accept criticism would be to only invite praise, and that, at times, when it is most certainly not warranted.
To that end please take my comments on your pen in the manner I intend them, as positive criticism through which we can all benefit and better our turning and finishing skills, and by all, I do mean all, from the novice through to the most experienced, after all, every day is a learning day, and when its not its time to get in our box.
Its a lovely pen, after all, its an Omega! but the finish hasnt complemented your turning skills. I dont know what has happened but there are quite clearly undulations on the CA finish. I think that there are several factors that assist in leaving a penmaker with a super smooth finish. The first is the choice of CA. Some swear by thick, some by thin, and some dilute it with BLO. I apply it neat by holding the towel over the top of the mandrel and gently putting a very thin continuous stream on the paper towel as the lathe turns at 850 rpm. This is the right speed for the viscosity of the glue. It ensures that with one swipe across the blank I get even coverage and the return swipe removes any ridges. Continuous and excessive sideways movements removes all the CA leaving you with a very thin coating and a CA laden paper towel.
The back and forward movements must be kept to a minimum to leave the CA on the pen not the towel.
The speed of the lathe must be matched to the viscosity of the CA.
Thereafter a quick sand with 240/320 and 400 before the Micromesh gives a sound base for the polishing process. Dont forget that there is no point at all going higher than a wet and dry sand of 400 as the micromesh sanding grade of 1500 is somewhere just above 400, the two scales are not the same. The use of BLO as a lubricant when mixed with the CA will provide a smoother surface that doesnt need as much sanding back, but it will take a hell of a lot longer to apply and so many more coats. More thinner coats doesnt (unlike varnish) mean a better finish, it just takes a lot longer (in my opinion).
Once the 400 is completed, go through the Micromesh to 12000 and then I use Chestnut Burnishing cream, I find it cuts better than Liberon, but Liberon does have a better wax within the burninshing cream. You should get an unblemished mirror finish.
Hope this helps, as with everything woodturning, the best solution for an individual is a balance of everything he or she is using to achieve their aim, so what works for me might not for you. Adjust and amend to suit.
Kawakers
Graduate Member
Colour of the wood and the pen compliment each other very nicely
C & C much appreciated, to be honest that was only my second attempt at using ca , usually don't like the stuff , but there were holes like woodworm in this blank, yes there are undulations and ripples but i will get better with more practice,
i take on board all criticism and will learn
thanks for your honest opinion.
see one , do one teach one school of life is my motto.
thanks
Neil
Fellow
Thanks for taking this in the spirit it was intended, I also hate CA, but its good for what I need to do, finish a lot of pens quickly that will stand the test of time.
donwatson
Fellow
Another nice pen Johnny