The only problem I see with using that setup to square the end of blanks, is that it squares it to the sides of the blank. That is fine if the blank is drilled absolutely straight down through the center of the blank. I can rarely achieve that, so I need to have a rod that runs through the tube to keep it square to the tube. I use the technique developed by Mike on the IAP board.
"I use a bowl face plate. I have lots of 5" velcro attached sanding disks of every conceivable grit and an entire box of 100 grit. I cut a 5+" circle of plywood on my band saw and attached the face plate to the circle. Then I turned it to the correct 5" on the lathe. Then I went to Home Depot and bought some heavy duty velcro and covered the entire face of my new disk with the hook part. This gives me a 5" disk sander. I use the outer edges to get the bulk of my sanding done all the way to the tube. Then I use my jacobs chuck in the tailstock and my Harbor Freight center punch set and find the right one to fit the tube, mount it in the chuck, mark 4 marks with a pencil on the end of the blank, slip it onto the center punch and clean it up on the center of the sanding disk. This was not my idea I just borrowed it from someone else here. I also use this 5" sanding disk to do lots of other things. Very handy and since my dust collector is already right on the lathe I don't have to move things around. It also works great to remove CA from my fingers as I am segmenting"
By mounting a punch in a jacob's chuck in the tailstock and the sanding disk on the faceplate, then mounting the blank on the punch, you can guarantee that the resulting face is square to the tube, not to the sides of the blank if the hole is not drilled perfectly straight. You can just hold the blank in your hand and slide it up the punch until it lightly contacts the spinning disk and apply just as much pressure as you need to square the blank.
Sharon
