Another pen finish

[Penpal]

Was all over this website today interesting reading. Also U Tube videos.

doctor.r2pwebsites.com/about us

Good reading.

Peter.

 

[Walter]

Just another snake oil salesman flogging friction polish IMHO.

 

[Penpal]

Has a following mate, wonder at dismissing the product without testing it.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

I will stick to U Beaut products

 

[Walter]

Has a following mate, wonder at dismissing the product without testing it.

Peter.

It is friction polish made from a mix of waxes and shellac, I don't need to test it. All friction polish is inadequate as a pen finish.

 

[Penpal]

Of course Walter there appears to be a need to find that elusive finish at the end of the rainbow, on the way product such as Triple EEE from downunder more than useful. Just received a note from Mercedes re care and protection of leather seats that have wrinkled. Along the way they suggest the use of a heat gun, most product does have a function.

Reading deeply into CA for pens it seems the way to go.

Peter.

 

[Walter]

I am not struck on CA either Peter although I did use it for a while and it has the distinct advantage over friction polish of lasting more than a few weeks. I keep saying this, although it mostly seems to fall on deaf ears, no-one but pen makers thinks CA is a finish.

As for EEE that is just wax with tripoli abrasive in it. What use that is supposed to be as a pen finish I cannot imagine other than perhaps for polishing acrylics and even then there are better alternatives. That said EEE and the UK equivalent, Yorkshire Sheen, are great for turnings where a wax finish is appropriate. As you say, most products have a function. The problem arises when people try to sell them for functions to which they are not well suited

Since you mention Mercedes, what they use to finish their cars is acrylic lacquer. That is my finish of choice these days.

Phil uses melamine lacquer, and I have had some success with that too especially when I want a satin finish.

Maybe I should update my little article "What I really think about pen finishes" that I posted on Facebook and post it here. Could open up a discussion if nothing else.

 

[Pierre]

I used to use CA but I have now stopped. I got a fair amount of feed back from the customers when I had about 50% of my stock finished in BLO/CA and the other half finished in sanding sealer/Tripoli/white diamond and renaissance wax. They all liked the latter since it felt like real wood properly finished whereas the BLO/CA looked and felt 'plasticky'. Now given that the majority of my winter customers are all locals who work wood I suppose that I have to go with the demand.

I tried friction polish in the beginning A it smelled horrible for a long time and B there was always a slightly tacky feel to it.

One other polish I have tried with success is on the open grain woods like London Plane, Oak ash etc and that is after full sanding over sanding sealer, a block of paraffin wax lightly rubbed on a high speed spin 2500rpm and then a soft cloth buff at 900 (Take care not to get the cloth threads wound up). It doesn't work very well on oily woods like lignum vitae, Niangon, cocobolo etc

PG

 

[Walter]

It is interesting to learn what other people use Pierre. I can't say I have much confidence in any kind of wax as a long term finish on pens unless the user is prepared to maintain it. I do understand your customers preference for something that looks and feels like real wood though and CA certainly does not fulfil that criterion.

To achieve a surface that looks and feels like real wood I find Phil's preferred finish of melamine lacquer produces good results, lasts well and needs no maintenance.

 

[Phil Dart]

Maybe I should update my little article "What I really think about pen finishes" that I posted on Facebook and post it here. Could open up a discussion if nothing else.

Oh yes please. Will you be giving away hard hats and body armour on request?

 

[Walter]

Oh yes please. Will you be giving away hard hats and body armour on request?

You can turn your own hard hats. (If you need help contact Andrew Hall RPT - Andrew Hall, Woodturner - Hallwoodhats.Com ) We are not related and no referral fees are involved.

For body armour, those of you who have confidence in friction polish or wax can use that.

 

[bigbob]

I have found CA finish the most hard wearing for the pen I tried Phils melamine on a Pen and liked the CA better having said that I have a feeling that I did not follow procedures properly so was making a couple of tool handles with cut outs glued to the end to help me undo and tighten the knobs on my scroll saw and bench sander (an idea I got from S D Good) and finished them with melamine which turned out a lot better so will try this on a pen again. I have not tried the laquer yet Walter but do have some so will try this as the proof is in the pudding and if you don't try things you will never know. Recently I have been trying to make little turned boxes and am woefully inadequate at making tenons and mortices but no matter I am practicing on cheap pine until I hopefully inprove anyway I have been finishing these with 2 coats of sanding sealer denibbing after the first coat then using a couple of coats of Paste wax and this is where I am at a learning curve should I use paste wax or paste wax 22 or Hampshire sheen or any other combination?

 

[Walter]

To be honest Bob, I would just try various kinds of wax until you find what you like best. I have a tin of Liberon Black Bison wax I have used for years and never felt the need for anything else.

Woodwax 22 is a mix of beeswax and carnauba wax so should give a good lasting finish on things like boxes, Hampshire sheen is a mix of wax and oil, I haven't tried it so can't really comment. Some like Yorkshire grit also contain a fine abrasive so you pays your money and you takes your choice.

As Pierre and Phil have pointed out though, some dense woods like ebony don't really need a finish at all.

Confused yet? Don't worry, just experiment.

 

[Penpal]

To be honest Bob, I would just try various kinds of wax until you find what you like best. I have a tin of Liberon Black Bison wax I have used for years and never felt the need for anything else.

Woodwax 22 is a mix of beeswax and carnauba wax so should give a good lasting finish on things like boxes, Hampshire sheen is a mix of wax and oil, I haven't tried it so can't really comment. Some like Yorkshire grit also contain a fine abrasive so you pays your money and you takes your choice.

As Pierre and Phil have pointed out though, some dense woods like ebony don't really need a finish at all.

Confused yet? Don't worry, just experiment.

I use spray laquer on Burl Caps for pen rests then Black Bison, my pro turner mate has used this combination for twenty years now ,very effective.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

I will stick to U Beaut products

It is friction polish made from a mix of waxes and shellac, I don't need to test it. All friction polish is inadequate as a pen finish.

I use U Beaut products on bowls etc not pens.

 

[Penpal]

For some days I had a red screen on the U Beaut site preventing me from accessing it.

Peter.