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Australian Burr Pen

Sgreen

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Mar 12, 2015
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Sheffield
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Simon
These are a few pens I made from the off-cut box from Aussie burrs. There are still a few tiny things I am not happy, like the transition to the centre band. You have to cut a tenon with this kit and I am still not getting it quite right. With more practice I will get there.
Also I made four razors and two perfume atomizers and there is still loads of wood left in the box.

View attachment 31009 View attachment 31010 View attachment 31011

This is the first set of pens I have made (Ball point and fountain pen) Again the transition is a little off.

View attachment 31012 View attachment 31013

View attachment 31014

Love the colouring of this pen, it seems to have a cream vein running through what is a red burr.

View attachment 31015 View attachment 31016

As always comments and advise please.
Simon
 

Buckeye

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The finish looks quite crude, what did you use? In the last photo it shows the cap is turned more than it should be near the centre band.

Peter
 

Sgreen

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The finish looks quite crude, what did you use? In the last photo it shows the cap is turned more than it should be near the centre band.

Peter

Hi peter
I sanded to 1200 grit and then used a sealer. After I used wax 22 on some and lacquer on others. the CA glue is only used for tubes now. (Oh and filling in catches an cracks)

It's the centre turning I am having trouble with. Over the next week I am going to concentrate on this area and practice before I do any more pens. It seems as soon as I have to cut a Tenon it all goes wrong. just wish I could see what I am doing wrong.

Next week I am going to my local turning club here in Sheffield, only so much you do when learning by your own mistakes.
 

Penpal

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Hi peter
I sanded to 1200 grit and then used a sealer. After I used wax 22 on some and lacquer on others. the CA glue is only used for tubes now. (Oh and filling in catches an cracks)

It's the centre turning I am having trouble with. Over the next week I am going to concentrate on this area and practice before I do any more pens. It seems as soon as I have to cut a Tenon it all goes wrong. just wish I could see what I am doing wrong.

Next week I am going to my local turning club here in Sheffield, only so much you do when learning by your own mistakes.

Best advice you have given yourself. Joining clubs 100% IMHO.

Peter.

Peter
 

Phil Dart

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If you are near to starting out, and still gaining experience, it is likely that the accuracy of your cuts will be better at the start of the cut than at the end. Therefore, consider how you are making your cuts - do you go from left to right - do you go from right to left - yopu need to cut with the grain so do you go in both directions because you are just as happy that way. Don't think that just because the centre band is at the centre of the pen that you have to mount it on your mandrel that way. If you prefer to cut from right to left for instance, mount your cap blank last, with the CB facing the tailstock. Your cut in the area where you need to put the tenon will be that bit more accurate.

It is also an impossibility, unless you are very experienced, to allow for a tenon on a cap on which you have turned a contour, without careful marking out and the frequent use of calipers. You could consider turning the cap parallel which may give you more success and depending on your personal opinion, may improve your overall design too.

Just some thoughts which may help you.
 

fortress

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Every time you go back to the lathe, you know a little more than last time, the pen looks good Simon. :thumbs::thumbs:
 

Buckeye

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Hi peter
I sanded to 1200 grit and then used a sealer. After I used wax 22 on some and lacquer on others. the CA glue is only used for tubes now. (Oh and filling in catches an cracks)

It's the centre turning I am having trouble with. Over the next week I am going to concentrate on this area and practice before I do any more pens. It seems as soon as I have to cut a Tenon it all goes wrong. just wish I could see what I am doing wrong.

Next week I am going to my local turning club here in Sheffield, only so much you do when learning by your own mistakes.

I remember cutting tenons when I first started and I found the best way for me was to use a thin parting tool to get the very end down to size, once I was happy with the diameter I could just take the rest of it down to match the end bit I had done. Also if you do turn the end bit down a fraction smaller than you wanted to, then you know that the rest doesn't get turned quite as much and you can use epoxy to stick the centre band on. Take it slow and measure, measure and just to be sure measure again.

Peter
 

Sgreen

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Some great advice given and taken on board. Feedback for me is never bad. Its also why I try and get close up pictures of the joints etc so I can see improvement and you guys can give quality feedback.

Looking at the pens I do leave a slight contour on the barrel so maybe that's why I can't get the fit I want. I like the idea of turning a fraction small and then doing the rest larger.

Pictures will follow ...
 

Sgreen

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Nice work Simon!:thumbs::thumbs:
Did that kit come with ''O Rings''? I always slip them on
past the threads into the recess, acts as a cushion when the thread bottoms out.

The kit is a classic elite which does come with O rings. I didn't use them because I think the wood is so nice I didn't want to detract from it.
 

Penpal

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The finish on the cap is superior to the body of the pen. I cut 3/4 inch strips from my sanding sheets that allow good flexibility and something to hold and negotiate that way pressure is easly controlled.

Peter.
 
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