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Bandsaw Bearings

Buckeye

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My bandsaw was a little poorly and wouldn't start unless I helped the blade to move using a piece of wood to push it downwards. I took the cover off and turned the top wheel by hand and could hear and feel something that appeared to come from the top wheel and I thought the bearing had gone. I took the wheel off and cleaned the grease out to find that there were two bearings in the top wheel they seemed perfect so I re-greased it and put it back together, but it was the same problem and the same awful noise. I decided to leave it and have a think about it instead of changing the bearings in the top wheel and I am so glad I did.

I decided to strip the machine down and checked out the push bearings and blocks and I found the bottom push bearing was the problem, I had 7 spare for the machine having changed one a couple of years ago so I changed it and reset everything and it runs sweetly now. It was only a few hours of bad noise and I have learnt my lesson and will sort it sooner next time.

Peter
 

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21William

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It's a perennial argument about which way round bearings should be used on bandsaws but the bottom line is that a bearing like that is not designed to take a load on its edge. Frequent (timely) replacement is the only answer if you have a bandsaw with bearings like that, luckily they're cheap enough these days.
 

Buckeye

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It's a perennial argument about which way round bearings should be used on bandsaws but the bottom line is that a bearing like that is not designed to take a load on its edge. Frequent (timely) replacement is the only answer if you have a bandsaw with bearings like that, luckily they're cheap enough these days.

I think frequent checking of alignment would have helped this not to happen, the blade has obviously been in constant contact with the bearing as that was the reason the blade wouldn't go round without help and it should only be in contact when material is being pushed into the blade. I will remember to keep checking clearances, at least for the next few weeks, until I forget.

Peter
 

donwatson

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Peter,
I had this problem a long time ago and it was the eccentric pin the bearing was mounted on. Replaced the bearing and set it in line and all was ok.
I posted about replacing bearings just recently as I think the bearing you show here is what I used. Came in a pack of 10 (for skateboard wheels) for less than £5. Local bearing firm wanted something like £30 odd FOR 2
 

Buckeye

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Peter,
I had this problem a long time ago and it was the eccentric pin the bearing was mounted on. Replaced the bearing and set it in line and all was ok.
I posted about replacing bearings just recently as I think the bearing you show here is what I used. Came in a pack of 10 (for skateboard wheels) for less than £5. Local bearing firm wanted something like £30 odd FOR 2

Hi Don, yes I bought 8 as a set for skateboards for a few pounds, can't remember the exact amount, it's all lined up and set nicely now. I just need to try and remember to check it over now and again.

It's the same with batteries, by them from Pcworld or maplins and they can be extortionate, from eBay 6 at least for the price of 1 and I don't even have to go and collect them from the shop.

Peter
 

Penpal

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i search and still do for a grooved bearing to use for this purpose to no avail wondering if this would help my saw if I adapt it.

Peter.
 

Buckeye

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Check mine every time I replace the blade.:thinks::whistling:

I do check them when I replace a blade, everything needs tweaking for a new blade, but this blade has lasted a long time, it wasn't one of tuffsaws.

Peter
 

Buckeye

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What do you mean it wasn't one of Tuffsaws?! I'll have to have a word with Ian about you! :funny:

All the blades I have had from Ian have failed at the weld, I know I can send them back for re-welding, but that is too much of a hassle and cost, so I now buy them elsewhere, not had one fail at the weld since.

Peter
 

Grump

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As much as it pains me to complain about tuffsaws blades:

I have become so accustomed to them breaking at welds that I now silver solder them myself when they snap.
Lasts longer than the weld they come with.
Some if not a lot is due to the small size I use in the Emco Star giving a tight turn on the wheels but the one that is on there now only cut 3 or 4 pen blanks before snapping.
Since silver soldering it I have not yet replaced it after a regiment of work.
I still have the rest to use of 6 blades and expect them to be the same.
 


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