Blank confusion

[rendauphin]

There seem to be many types of 'resin' blanks. Kirinite, polyester, acrylic, gps and more. What have people found to be the pros and cons of these different types please?
Jim

 

[flexi]

All materials have different turning, glueing, finishing properties..... personally I go for what's pretty

To define that further if I want a picture cast or watch face they tend to be PR....
If I want a machine/ factory made they tend to be Acrylics....
If I want something to take a thread or go thin on then I'll look at a harder resin...maybe GPS
Others to consider are Corian (kitchen worktop)
M3 mokum ( metal flakes in resin) Ebonite extruded rubber oh and Trustone/Yunstone.....stone particles in resin, not really the answer you was looking for I know but all the resins are different and seem to have their own place in the market....so I suppose if you know what your end desire is that may help you decide

 

[Themackay]

As Mark said all have different properties some are easier to turn its all a learning curve I find polyester very brittle and I hate turning it but the end result is usually worth it

 

[Margo]

And Corian can have a lovely finish but is often very small, narrow blanks - not one to practice your drilling on!!

 

[fortress]

I used to cast my own blanks in Polyester resin, but turning them was challenging, even if you got the ratio spot on it would still be nerve wracking because it could still blow without warning. In My experience Polyester resin has more negatives than positives, cheap but unpredictable and of course that terrible smell.
Now I only use Epoxy resins, they are easy to turn and are kinder to things cast within it.

 

[flexi]

Alan, if you think Polyester is brittle....try inlace acrylester, now that's brittle......I thought I was getting little electric/static shocks....it was tiny sharp shards pinging into my hand

 

[Lons]

And Corian can have a lovely finish but is often very small, narrow blanks - not one to practice your drilling on!!

Yes but you can glue 2 thicknesses together to make 24 mm, best if you buy the specific coloured Corian glue when the join can be invisible, not cheap so would need to glue a lot or befriend an installer as they throw part tubes away because it goes off.

There are alternatives to Corian however in thicker slabs and virtually the same material, I used Mistral ( made by Karonia ) to fit kitchens for years and it comes in standard 25mm thick slabs so perfect for pen blanks, a more limited range of colours but enough to make it worthwhile and there are other makes around. Try asking local kitchen fabricators for samples and sink . hob cutouts.

 

[Pierre]

I don't like any of them at best and only turn them to fill specific orders or to meet a challenge, I prefer wood because it is more forgiving but also I dont want to waste what nature offers, which is why I try to use old cupboards or old planks occasionally I will use a new plank but only if it has passed the CITES rules. At the moment on the mainland of Europe boxwood is cheap and available, very soon it will become rare. Olive-wood in the south of Europe is being burned and you aren't allowed to make it into objects because it contains a bacteria which is destroying the Olive groves, so all tools use to cut it must be disinfected and in certain places there are strict penalties for moving it elsewhere.

 

[alan morrison]

What have people found to be the pros and cons of these different types please?
Jim

Very few cons turning a bit of timber.

 

[Penpal]

Like Flexies guide it comes down to horses for courses IMHO.

Peter.

 

[rendauphin]

All helpful advice, thanks, and it points me to try some different types of blanks and just turn some key rings and see how I get on.

 

[flexi]

Further reading......I just found on Faceache!
Hi ......I have recently bought some acrylic blanks before really knowing the differences between acrylic,polyester and epoxy. I was a bit startled to find this article



Acrylic resin (but not acrylic emulsion, which is the basis of acrylic paint) is a thermoplastic, which means it is one of a group of plastics which can be heated and manipulated repeatedly, whereas polyester resin and epoxy are thermosetting plastics, which use heat or a catalyst to solidify into a solid mass that won’t melt down. Acrylic is mixed from acrylic polymer, a dry powder, a methyl methacrylate monomer, a thin liquid, and usually an organic peroxide hardener of some sort. If pieces of any size are contemplated, an autoclave or hydraulic press is necessary for reducing air-bubbles and counteracting the internal stresses created by the strongly exothermic reaction. The dust is toxic, as is the monomer and its vapors. And the organic peroxides are especially poisonous, some of them being explosive and others causing instant blindness if they get in ones eyes.

Am I right in thinking that once the resin has cured these issues don't apply, or is the dust produced from turning and sanding still toxic ?

I don't know any of the validity but a good point to research from

 

[alpha1]

We produce methyl methacrylate monomer we are one of the largest suppliers in the World. In its solid form, it will burn if you add a flame to it. When turning blanks you should use extraction or wear a face mask. Other than that it's perfectly safe to use.

 

[alpha1]

This data refers to it in the liquid form. Not as a solid.
http://www.apcbkk.com/pdf/6Monomer/1MethylMethacrylate(MMA).pdf

 

[alpha1]

Acrylic in solid form.

https://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/plastic_safety_data_sheets/perspex_safety_data_sheet.pdf

http://www.vanninidental.com/certification/safety_data_sheet/novacryl_self.pdf

 

[golum]

Corian eats tool edges......

 

[Penpal]

Can,t beat a slice of real burl in the morning.

Peter.