• Thanks for visiting The Penturners Forum today.

    There are many features and resources that currently you are unable to see or access, either because you're not yet registered, or if you're already registered, because you're not logged in.

    To gain full access to the forum, please log in or register now. Registration is completely free, it only takes a few seconds, and you can join our well established community of like-minded pen makers.

Bolivian Rosewood

ValleyBoy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2019
Posts
745
Location
Cardiff
First Name
Ash
Hi all

A nice bit of Bolivian Rosewood and blue cellulose in this one.

Jowo nib, 13mm cap threads, oiled, waxed and buffed.

Cheers
Ash

B1BBD231-4639-41E0-822A-022F67F49DE6_1_201_a.jpgAB3E6BC9-A5CC-475A-A1FC-C7CA1DE7F279_1_201_a.jpgEFB3F30E-593E-467F-8729-F8DF60CCA1AF_1_201_a.jpg1A6452C1-6C55-4D9D-B57A-CFE458D4020E_1_201_a.jpg
 

flexi

Executive Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Posts
6,454
Location
Maidstone
First Name
mark
That is another lovely pen, an excellent piece of timber there with a great choice of acrylic too.... Really nice job:drool::drool:
I have used two oils to finish pen's with in the past with great results.... True oil on Walnut( its a gun stock finish) and Peacock oil which is a blended hand tool handle finish
 

21William

Fellow
Joined
Jan 21, 2016
Posts
1,629
Location
Dorset
First Name
William
Very Elegant Ash.

It would be nice to see a tutorial of how you produce your stunningly good Pens. :winking:
 

ValleyBoy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2019
Posts
745
Location
Cardiff
First Name
Ash
Another cracking pen, Ash.
Are you able to elaborate more on your finishing technique?
type of oil and what wax?

Thanks
Alan

Thanks Alan.

I am still developing my finishing approach, but what I currently do is sand to 400 then apply sanding sealer and cut back (I repeat this until the grain no longer rises). Then I sand to 800 and add a few coats of Danish oil which has a small amount of varnish in it. I use the Hampshire Sheen toy-safe variety. The number of coats depends on how thirsty the wood is (cut back between coats).

Then I finish with hard wax (I use carnauba). I also buff as required using a buffing wheel and compound.

I always stress to new owners that this finish means this is a desk pen, and not one for throwing in a handbag. People who buy these pens are generally happy to forgo the hard-wearing benefits of lacquer/CA in favour of having a more natural feel.

I have used the melamine approach in the past on kit pens and liked the effect so I am looking at how that could work on these pens too.

Thats it in a nutshell!

Cheers
Ash
 
Warning! This thread has not had any replies for over a year. You are welcome to post a reply here, but it might be better to start a new thread (and maybe include a link to this one if you need to).
Top