Buffing Wheel Kit

[Jim]

I treated myself a few weeks ago to the Chestnut Buffing Wheel Kit, had a look at it today in the hope of using it shortly, is anyone using this for their pens? If so can you see a difference after polishing ..

 

[cookie21]

Using the buffing wheels is a favourite pen finish for me, a good soaking of liberon finishing oil, left for at least 24 hours then a good buff up on the wheels, not a finish for the shiny CA guys, but if you like a natural luster that looks & feels like wood its worth a shot

 

[rayf6604]

I have the Chestnut polishing wheels but I've used them exclusively for polishing turned things like bangles with the supplied brown, white and carnauba wax. I did buy a set of 3 polishing wheels from the Polishing Shop with plastic polishing compounds and that works well, but I just find both of them a bit vicious for use on small items and the tendency to pull whatever your polishing out of your hands/fingers and send it flying across the workshop, is very easy to do. I hardly use either of them.

Sent from my SGP321 using Tapatalk

 

[Buckeye]

I use buffing mops, but not the chestnut kit and I have started buffing my CA finished pens and I am so pleased with the result, but as I said I don't have the chestnut system so no idea what they provide, I chose the mops and the compounds.

Peter

 

[cookie21]

forgot to mention I'm not keen on the brown,white, carnauba finish, I've found the beige, yellow & ren wax better for me

 

[silver]

I do have bench top polishing mops, used them last around 2 years ago.

But always interested in any new ideas, materials and equipment.

 

[Woody]

I have the creusen polisher which I use on corian and acrylic using the brown and diamond compounds works a treat

 

[Pierre]

I always use the Beal buffing system with Tripoli, white diamond and Carnauba, although sometimes the Carnauba is not necessary and renaissance wax can take its place (hand buffed), its all a matter of judgement on the wood itself and the finish you get with each piece ie lignum vitae does not need a wax finish but Niangon does but each is an oily wood. Equally, you should always have some kind of sanding sealer substrate before you use a buffing system eg the CA finish can be it or ordinary sanding sealer can be it.

All of my non pens items are finished with the buffing system now and I have just changed from CA finish on the pens to sanding sealer and buffing.... the final tactility I find is much better.

PG

 

[Penpal]

I have my polishing systems a double ended 6 inch grinder two mops they work a treat no pull so far. I only use them to suit the pen .

Peter.

 

[Pierre]

I forgot, if you don't use the Tripoli wheel much, it will go hard, so get a piece of plywood, double side some 80 grit onto it and apply to the wheel that will stop scoreing from a hard wheel.

PG

 

[Bammer]

I have a set from the polishing shop. haven't used it for months. It does give an excellent shine on CA, but it's just like applying wax ... the shine will not last

I don't use CA or the mops to finish pens now

 

[wm460]

I use the Beal buffing system as well, I only use Tripoli, white diamond, I found the Carnauba wax gave me a duller finish.

 

[wm460]

I forgot, if you don't use the Tripoli wheel much, it will go hard, so get a piece of plywood, double side some 80 grit onto it and apply to the wheel that will stop scoreing from a hard wheel.

PG

I rake mine when I finish, I was advised to do this by a professional polisher in seppo land.

 

[21William]

I use buffing mops, but not the chestnut kit and I have started buffing my CA finished pens and I am so pleased with the result, but as I said I don't have the chestnut system so no idea what they provide, I chose the mops and the compounds.

Peter

This is the best way. For those that haven't already bought any polishing stuff don't buy the beal or the chesnut system unless you want to pay 2 or 3 times more than you need to. All the information and supplies you need at far better prices are available from specialist suppliers like:

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/a...ompounds-for-Woods--Plastics-and-Lacquer.html

 

[Bill Mooney]

I used to use the mops for my pens but since using Farecla profile 300 & 500 I don't find the need to use them.

 

[Buckeye]

This is the best way. For those that haven't already bought any polishing stuff don't buy the beal or the chesnut system unless you want to pay 2 or 3 times more than you need to. All the information and supplies you need at far better prices are available from specialist suppliers like:

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/a...ompounds-for-Woods--Plastics-and-Lacquer.html

I have used them for a few years and not just for wood, I can get a mirror finish on aluminium that looks almost chrome. The finish on Stainless, copper and brass is also incredible.

For CA I use http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Polishing_Compounds_180gm_Half_Round_Bar-p1.html Menzerna P175 the gloss is the best I have seen.

Peter

 

[Gizmo3k]

Quick tip for polishing pens - slide the tube onto a transfer punch of a suitable size, it gives you much more to hold onto, and only requires a finger on the pen part to stop it spinning.

 

[21William]

For CA I use Menzerna Mini Polishing Bars Page 1 Menzerna P175 the gloss is the best I have seen.

Peter

I have some P175 but not tried it yet.

I should add that the service I've had from the polishingshop has been very good and their postage rates are very competitive.

 

[Buckeye]

I have some P175 but not tried it yet.

I should add that the service I've had from the polishingshop has been very good and their postage rates are very competitive.

I should have said for CA I use EEE then white lightning and the final polish with the P175 and I agree the service from the polishing shop is brilliant, you can even speak to them for advice.

Peter