CA glue build up

[musomaniac]

hi everone , i'm new to pen turning , in fact any turning , i have turned a few pens in the last week , and i am using ca glue for the finish , my problem is the ca build up on the very edges of the pen halfs , it seems a lot of ca sort of hangs over the edge next to the bushes , and is a nightmare to get off without damaging the finish
i have turned my own bushes out of hdpe rod , this polyethene plastic does not stick to ca glue , somwhen i come to applying the ca , i replace the steel bushes with these , but it still doesnt stop the build up on the ends
any ideas would be most welcome

i have just tried to upload my very first pen attempmi did last week , but nothing seems to be hapenning

 

[Jim]

Hi John,

What speed are you running the lathe at when applying the CA? Start at the middle and work from side to side making sure that you don't overload your paper towel. I place wax paste between my blank and bushings to stop he issue you mention ..

Regarding the image, you will be able to upload after two posts are made .. But then depending on the time the site updates hourly so you may have to wait for this o happen .. You will know when it happens as your name will change colour ..

 

[Neil]

too much glue.

 

[silver]

As per Jim, but Neil has a point..

Another way is to use cone bushes rather than the standard shaped bushes. That way it won't effect you when you remove the bushes.

I always run the end around on a piece of 1200 W&D by hand prior to building it up to make sure the ends are finished and any residues are equal.

 

[musomaniac]

yes i do use cones , i turned them from the hdpe rod , its not the blanks sticking to the cones thats the problem , its the overhang of built up ca after theblanks have been removed from the polyethene bushes/cones

 

[musomaniac]

jim , i'm running the lathe at its lowest rpm when applying the ca

 

[TK woodman]

apply the CA using greaseproof paper from left to right while turning the lathe by hand and stop watching Americans on you tube - you are just making work for yourself

 

[Penpal]

I only use one layer of CA never any problems I use full bushes. Medium CA. Quick example pic of BeefWood.

Peter.

 

[chas_41_uk]

Sounds like too much glue being applied by the sound of it. Easily done when starting out.
I still do it occasionally

 

[musomaniac]

penpal thats a nice pen , i like a high gloss finish though and i dont think one coat of ca would achieve it , does anyone use a sanding sealer before applying the ca ?

TkWoodman , what are the benefits of applying with grease proof paper as opposed to paper towel , and turning the lathe by hand as opposed to on its slowest speed ?

Sorry for all the questions , but i'm just trying to find the best way to achieve a good end result , every youtube video i've watched has the lathe running at slow speed , and the ca applied with paper towel

 

[musomaniac]

i still cant upload a photo

 

[rayf6604]

I've recently gone back to using CA after Talking to Terry. I use the cones in place of the metal bushes and I use thin CA, I hold the bottle in the centre of the blank while its spinning about 1000rpm, put a drop of CA in the centre and rub it quickly back and forth to spread it and repeat this for about 10 or 12 coats using the activator between coats. Cut it back slightly with 800 grit then use Farecla Profile 200 plastic cutting compound followed by Farecla Profile 500 polishing compound and you will end up with a beautiful mirror finish. You should also end up with minimal glue over the ends and the cones should just gently snap away. If there is any residue of glue gently rub it with 600 grit just to smooth it and be careful not to sand any wood away. It's worked for me but at usual there are many ways to achieve the same end, some of them others have said here. Good luck

 

[musomaniac]

I've recently gone back to using CA after Talking to Terry. I use the cones in place of the metal bushes and I use thin CA, I hold the bottle in the centre of the blank while its spinning about 1000rpm, put a drop of CA in the centre and rub it quickly back and forth to spread it and repeat this for about 10 or 12 coats using the activator between coats. Cut it back slightly with 800 grit then use Farecla Profile 200 plastic cutting compound followed by Farecla Profile 500 polishing compound and you will end up with a beautiful mirror finish. You should also end up with minimal glue over the ends and the cones should just gently snap away. If there is any residue of glue gently rub it with 600 grit just to smooth it and be careful not to sand any wood away. It's worked for me but at usual there are many ways to achieve the same end, some of them others have said here. Good luck

I use micromesh upto 12000 grit then G3 which is the same as farecla i think

 

[musomaniac]

i used to spray motorcycle tanks and fairings , and always used G3 , for a final polish , good stuff used with a bit of water and a polishing mop , i can achieve a nice finish on the pens its just the access ca on the ends causing the probl3m

as a few people have said i'm most likely using too much hence the question about using sanding sealer to seal the grain first , then ca used sparingly ?

 

[rayf6604]

I use micromesh upto 12000 grit then G3 which is the same as farecla i think

There is a difference between G3 and Profile. The G3 I understand is a scratch remover for paint while the Profile products are plastic polishing compounds. They may achieve the same end, but the Profile negates the need to use micromesh and have tubs of water lying around, the Profile 200 will polish plastics from 300-600 grit

 

[paulm]

I apply ca at the same speed that I turn the blank (as fast as it'll go) and use an old chisel with a point to turn off the excess ca from the the bushes, cutting it at the blank before I start the finishing... many ways to kill a cat an all that...

 

[TK woodman]

penpal thats a nice pen , i like a high gloss finish though and i dont think one coat of ca would achieve it , does anyone use a sanding sealer before applying the ca ?

TkWoodman , what are the benefits of applying with grease proof paper as opposed to paper towel , and turning the lathe by hand as opposed to on its slowest speed ?

Sorry for all the questions , but i'm just trying to find the best way to achieve a good end result , every youtube video i've watched has the lathe running at slow speed , and the ca applied with paper towel

paper towel contains cellulose and heats up and could be a fire risk it can also transfer fibres to your work piece especially when your new to CA finishing - greaseproof paper does none of this - If you want to introduce a heat source to a wood shop then use paper - If you apply CA with the lathe running you WILL create ridges and i dont care what people say on here most of them will be cutting back with sand paper to get a smooth finish and is the reason they put multiple lays on. one person says he puts 10 coats on why 10 why not nine or eleven it makes no difference to the final finish it just helps when cutting back rant over

 

[Penpal]

Everything depends on the brand of CA whether you get used to thick medium or thin CA. I use medium only one coat never cut it back dead even coating. I experimented with cutting that none coat off and I can tell you its sticks like tar to a Tomcat and has to be cut off. Pre CA I use tripleEEE U Beaut which is a supreme product all of this is with timber blanks. I apply it lightly at about 1500 rpm using blue paper special towel no heat involved wait briefly spray with fixer. All of these apply to me obviously not to anyone else we all have our own experiences. From your original post John your problem is build up on the ends I never go over past the ends with CA applying lightly.

Works for me. Trust you find your way the pen I showed you has a beaut finish but I light my pens various ways to suit the subject as flare is easily encountered but no detail in flare I have found.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

I use a thin piece of foam.

 

[musomaniac]

this is my first ever pen