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Christmas tree (pine) wood prep

N

Natator

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Simon
Hi all :)

This Christmas was a special one for my family, partly as it is unfortunately likely to be the last one with everyone there.

I want to try and make some pens for the family from the wood of our Christmas tree.

I have removed the branches and debarked about a meter of the trunk. I’ll be returning to Australia with it (hence the de-bark, and yes it will be declared), where it will be in a generally very hot, and often humid, environment.

Can anyone give me clues as to how best to deal with the timber until it’s ready to use? Also, how do I know when it’s ready, other than try it and see?

I’m thinking that it might be ready to use faster if I cut it into blanks while it’s still green. However, that might be exactly the wrong thing to do.

Any advice?

Oh and yes, I know pine isn’t exactly the best wood but this is for a special reason.

:)
 
Dalboy

Dalboy

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I would leave it as long as you can for as long as you can, sounds a little double Dutch that does if it starts to split you can chop the ends off and the split part when it has dried. or you could cut it down but larger than pen blank sizes and use a microwave to dry it but find an old one as the wife may not be too pleased with you.
Make sure it is fully dry before turning it into pens.
 
Penpal

Penpal

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The main thing isto seal the ends,depending on when you intend to return depends on what to seal it with. Using water based paint will dry best,any oil based sealer could take time.In any case it will smell ie the Pine smell.Having debarked it you could paint it all over. If you are ill at ease divide the timber in to two pieces and use different treatments. Trust all goes well,safe return mate.

Peter.
 
D

Dibbs

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Yes, seal the ends. I melt a candle in an old pan and dip the ends in.

You need a meter to test the moisture content. There are cheap ones available online, probably not too accurate but better than nothing.

Without a meter the usual rule of thumb is one year per inch of thickness.
 
Phil Dart

Phil Dart

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Pine is tricky to season in log form, since it easily splits. A commercial timber yard would generally convert a larger log to planks before seasoning it, and find some other use for the small stuff, such as woodchips. Your particular log will be quite thin and will also still have the pith in it. There is a very high chance if you leave it whole, that you will be taking to Australia what will end up as not much more than firewood, no matter how careful you are in seasoning it.

If it were mine, I would be tempted to experiment with a small section. Cut off a small length, and convert it into pen blanks, then take up Derek's suggestion of the microwave. If that works, you will know in advance, so you can convert and dry the whole log before you leave. If it doesn't work, then you will have nothing to lose by leaving it whole and chancing it, but at the very least, if you have any wider sections, I would cut them in half lengthways through the pith, to give it a better fighting chance.

You can check for dryness by weight. For the microwave method, weigh the wood before you start. Give it a blast then check the weight again. When it stops losing weight you'll know it's dry.

In log form, again weigh it before you start, and check periodically. When it hasn't lost any weight for at least a fortnight, it will be dry.
 
N

Natator

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Simon
Weird, did a reply yesterday but it’s not here now. Oh wel must have hit the wrong button.

Was just saying thanks to everyone for the excellent advice :)

A newbie like me doesn’t tend to post much, unless asking questions, as I for one have little (usable) advice to offer. However, this forum really is such an amazing resource a reading the various threads has been invaluable :)
 
Pierre

Pierre

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If its a Christmas tree then its not very wide at the largest point, deciduous wood takes on average 1 year for one inch thickness too dry, if its in log form then imagine a curve that takes longer as it reaches the middle, pine wood takes longer because it is resin not sap that is drying. So keep it in a moist covered place but off the ground and let air around it. Waxing the ends will stop fast moisture egress, but turning it green and thin with an immediate finish can work. Much depends on what you want to make. If you want to use it as 'planks' then quarter saw it to reduce splitting, wood pulls to the heart.

But most of all when you turn it make sure your tools are sharp pine hates blunt tools.

PG
 
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