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This was my entry in the closed end pen competition.

The kit was a Baron dressed in Tambooti and finished with two coats of friction polish and one coat of microcrystaline wax

[ATTACH]13699[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]13700[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]13701[/ATTACH]

Attempting a closed end pen is something I was thinking about before Peter devised the competition. He just bought the “getting round to it” forward.
Doing the top half was easy enough, nothing different to a normal pen. The closed end was more interesting.
Not having a closed end mandrel I had to opt for one of the other methods.
After calculating the depth required for drilling I drilled an initial hole with a drill bit the same diameter as the mandrel. Then I increased the size of the hole to the depth of the tube. After roughing, gluing the tube and squaring the end of the blank I used my adjustable mandrel with one bush at the headstock end and the live centre in the tailstock to hold the blank in place. Turning was easy enough as was sanding and finishing the main section. Sanding the bottom closed end was all done by hand as was the polishing

C+C welcome

<blockquote data-quote="chas_41_uk" data-source="post: 138896" data-attributes="member: 441">This was my entry in the closed end pen competition.The kit was a Baron dressed in Tambooti and finished with two coats of friction polish and one coat of microcrystaline wax[ATTACH]13699[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13700[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13701[/ATTACH]Attempting a closed end pen is something I was thinking about before Peter devised the competition. He just bought the “getting round to it” forward.Doing the top half was easy enough, nothing different to a normal pen. The closed end was more interesting.Not having a closed end mandrel I had to opt for one of the other methods.After calculating the depth required for drilling I drilled an initial hole with a drill bit the same diameter as the mandrel. Then I increased the size of the hole to the depth of the tube. After roughing, gluing the tube and squaring the end of the blank I used my adjustable mandrel with one bush at the headstock end and the live centre in the tailstock to hold the blank in place. Turning was easy enough as was sanding and finishing the main section. Sanding the bottom closed end was all done by hand as was the polishingC+C welcome</blockquote>

[QUOTE="chas_41_uk, post: 138896, member: 441"] This was my entry in the closed end pen competition. The kit was a Baron dressed in Tambooti and finished with two coats of friction polish and one coat of microcrystaline wax [ATTACH]13699._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]13700._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]13701._xfImport[/ATTACH] Attempting a closed end pen is something I was thinking about before Peter devised the competition. He just bought the “getting round to it” forward. Doing the top half was easy enough, nothing different to a normal pen. The closed end was more interesting. Not having a closed end mandrel I had to opt for one of the other methods. After calculating the depth required for drilling I drilled an initial hole with a drill bit the same diameter as the mandrel. Then I increased the size of the hole to the depth of the tube. After roughing, gluing the tube and squaring the end of the blank I used my adjustable mandrel with one bush at the headstock end and the live centre in the tailstock to hold the blank in place. Turning was easy enough as was sanding and finishing the main section. Sanding the bottom closed end was all done by hand as was the polishing C+C welcome [/QUOTE]

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