Cyano proof paint?

[Wrongway]

Are there any paints that are resistant to CA. I want to paint a brass tube before glueing and fitting into an acrylic blank. The paint reacted on the one I have tried so far.

 

[GeordieB]

Will epoxy work better Robbie ??

 

[Wrongway]

Thats the next thing to try

 

[Neil]

It has been frequently and extensively discussed here on several occasions, and whilst ca can be used it is the most inappropriate adhesive around for this application. Ca is normally triggered by pressure and relies on moisture, ideally from both surfaces to cure. In the case of acrylic neither of these circumstances apply, additionally it has no gap filling potential.

Bin it use epoxy, pu needs moisture as well, but can be used but just because the ends appear cured don't assume it is fully cured unless it's had a good few hours.

 

[silver]

While I agree with Neil above, there are options to use Acrylic based paint with CA.

I use artists paints amongst others to paint tubes if I believe it is needed.

Also if you use a medium or thick CA then it will help with gap filling.

But as per Neil, I use epoxy 99.9% of the time.

 

[Baldy]

Watching intently as just sprayed a tube last night.. what kind of epoxy would be suggested?

 

[Tephy]

just to add I don't know if everyone knows this but CA is also available ( in industry anyway ) as a gel. It doesn't run or drip and does fill small gaps , it was designed to fill small gaps in irregular surfaces when bonding. I don't know if available commercially but it is what I use, I suppose I should start trying to source some more for my own needs as I am running low .

 

[Walter]

A further codicil/caveat. Painting the tubes is not the best way to go in my opinion especially if the blank is to be turned quite thin at any point. Any irregularities in the glue coating will be visible and could spoil the appearance of the finished pen. Better to paint the inside of the blank.

 

[Wrongway]

I agree Neil, the subject of using CA has been debated quite extensively, and I agree with most of the points. However I wouldn't call the use of CA in this application inappropriate, but agree that it is probably not the best adhesive for the task. Generally, gap filling doesn't seem to arise on the blanks that I have drilled. Plus the use of medium CA which contains additives to give gap filling properties and in some brands also give a degree of shock resistance. I was more interested in finding a paint that didn't react to the CA. From previous threads I came to the conclusion that very few failures had been experienced using CA to warrant it's total exclusion. However, like you say epoxy will probably do a more belt and braces job.

 

[Wrongway]

A further codicil/caveat. Painting the tubes is not the best way to go in my opinion especially if the blank is to be turned quite thin at any point. Any irregularities in the glue coating will be visible and could spoil the appearance of the finished pen. Better to paint the inside of the blank.

To be honest Walter, this will be the first time I will have painted a tube. At a pen turning event in Warrington last weekend, one of the demonstrations involved making a pen that had a blank with a fairly translucent 'mother of pearl' type of appearance. The demonstrator commented that he had the choice of painting white or leaving the tube bare so the brass gave a gold like appearance within the blank. However a colleague had suggested trying to paint the tube pink! So he gave it a go, and this is what he demonstrated. Unfortunately, the wife fell in love with it instantly and would like one. One of the caveats that he mentioned was the reaction the paint had to the CA.

As posted, epoxy is the obvious answer. I was just curious if there was any CA proof paints for future reference.

 

[Neil]

Watching intently as just sprayed a tube last night.. what kind of epoxy would be suggested?

Maybe Walter can add to this, but I would shy away from some of the hardware store options based on nothing more than the vile smell of some of them! The zap Z-Poxy five minute is best in my opinion. The 30 minute is more brittle and if you use a disc sander to clean the ends of the prepared blanks, it will tend to clog your abrasive more than the five minute. You can get good adhesives from model shops that are more cost effective (cheap!) than the woodturning outlets. I use Cyano Glue, Activator Kicker Epoxy ZAP Bullet Tape covering Adhesives but there are others. Check out the building materials sections of these websites whilst you are there, they sell brass tubing as well that is useful for the unobtainable replacements for some kits although someone, if not I, will issue a warning of tube thickness being different, but Ive never had a problem.

 

[Penpal]

Robbie laying all the cards on the table from the get go does above also how you end up after the advice is valuable normally allow all of us to concentrate on specifics thank you for your last posting. The end result of things say lathe choices and solutions can make it worthwhile next time a question is asked I for one go flat out to help follow up if not forthcoming means next time a shrug of the shoulders.

An example on another forum I swapped with a guy after the event someone wrote in and said how did you do this and that, well I had published on a previous posting how why and when on the same page it took me best part of a week taking pictures providing infinite detail the reply this guy I swapped with was wished I knew.

Take care mate enjoy your searching and making. I will too.

Peter.

 

[Woody]

All I ever use to colour a tube is cheap ol acrylic paint, water or a permanent felt tip marker and if a blank is drilled correctly why do you need a gap filling glue I now alwys use med ca glue from our Dan because it is more or less instant

 

[Walter]

Maybe Walter can add to this.

Not much that I can add Neil, I agree with pretty much all you say although I tend to use the 30 minute z-poxy. I have also used Araldite Rapid but I don't like the twin tube syringe type packs as they seem to be useable once and then set solid in the tube. I would definitely recommend the z-poxy products.

I can understand those who protest that they have used CA for years with no problem. So did I, but I still agree strongly with you that epoxy is far better as it makes a much better bond with the metal.

Useless fact of the day: Superglue was invented by accident:

History Of Super Glue | Super Glue Corporation

 

[Phil Dart]

Because I have no shame, can I direct your attention to here Gorilla 5 Minute Epoxy
GORFM10 gets a further 10% off, and contrary to Walters experience, I've got a syringe that has been opened and still going strong after 7 or 8 months.

 

[wm460]

Epoxy 100% of the time.

 

[Midnightlunchbox]

I use the wife's nail varnish to paint tubes then thick CA, works for me.

 

[Dalboy]

Epoxy glue and artist acrylic paints for me, I have tried the CA route and don't always get the best results.

 

[Penpal]

This theme is still developing lots of interesting posts.

Peter.