Do I need .......

[Garno]

Hi,

Do I need or is it advisable to buy a complete Mandrel set?

Is this just over priced and can I get the same stuff cheaper if it is something that is better to have?

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Personally I think it is a lot of money but if it is something that would help me then I shall with a saddened heart purchase it.
What has interested me was the Pen Barrel Insertion Tool and the Pen Barrel Trimming Tool along of course with the mandrel and 5 bushes set (absolutely no idea what any of that lot does).

Thanks in advance
Gary

 

[Garno]

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[Garno]

For some reason the link is showing as 520 Origin Error but seems to work fine when clicking on it

 

[flexi]

There is many ways to skin a cat( though not allowed legally anymore... Please don't try!) If you have a collet chuck or 3 jaw chuck and a hollow tailstock /mandrel saver you could just use silver steel bar!.... You could buy a live and dead center and turn that way or buy special TBC bushes is another option.... Personally I have the Axi mandrel and mandrel saver set and it works for me.....a
As to pen Mills here goes the can of worms, for as many people that use one there is one that uses a sander and then what mill do you use
So Mills are quick and easy to use, you can have 4 or 6 cutter faces and various guide rods... Also as I have, Woodpecker do a TCT version which uses a shear cutting action and is not cheap. The biggest down side to these is sharpening and keep changing the pilot over to fit the tubes...
With a bench sander you can use a set of transfer punches and a v press and when set up square is very fast and efficient in trimming blanks Square. It's drawback is its another machine and bench space. I have to say I use both methods and can't decide between them....
For a tube inserter, (it basically stops you getting glue on your fingers) I use a mastic tube nozzle.
I trust this will be no help what so ever!!
But basically Yes you need a way to support your blank when turning and Yes you will need some way to square its ends beforehand. No you don't need a tube inserter!

 

[21William]

Looking on the auction site you can get a Morse Taper ER20 collet Chuck for about a tenner delivered. A suitable collet and a piece of silver steel are about three quid each. Not sure about the cost of other bits but I suppose it could add up to £50?

 

[21William]

What size is the Morse taper in your Lathe Gary?

 

[Garno]

What size is the Morse taper in your Lathe Gary?

I believe it's an M2.

This looks very much like my lathe but I bought it as an Axminster from Ebay it was manufactured in 2020 ( it is unbadged and looks the same as this ) The seller has only used it a few times and sold me a chuck and HSS chisels x 6 for £125 I got an absolute bargain. Axminster do this exact model just in a different colour and the minimum amount you can buy from this link is 50 units. The seller sold it as an Axminster.

China 10X18" Mini Wood Lathe 370W (MC1018) - China Lathe, Woodworking Machine

 

[21William]

This shows the sizes. I may have an old collet Chuck somewhere.

 

[Bill Mooney]

Like Mark I use the sander. Never use a pen mill now.

 

[Neil Lawton]

Don't buy anything!
I have examples of every way to mount, mill and turn pens so you can make your own mind up later!

 

[Pierre]

Unless you are good at turning between centres and doing really precision work then you are going to need a pen mandrell and I would advise the mandrel saver end piece as well, It holds the variety of bushings and it allows for speed of change. A tube inserter is unnecessary because you have fingers. I personally use a barrel trimmer (they are easy to sharpen) and I use a pillar drill.... its a pain to constantly clean a sanding disk for squaring but only because I make a ton of other things so my sanding disk is in perpetual motion. on a dirty dart on the internet this came up first Pen Mandrel |Rotur Pen Mandrels you can use it with a live centre or buy a mandrell saver as well.

 

[21William]

I’ve found the chuck Gary. It is a Morse taper 2 so if it fits your lathe you can have it if you want. I may have a collet as well but if not you’ll have to buy one (about £2.50) You’ll also need to buy a shaft and nut.

 

[Curly]

One of the downsides to an insertion tool is they interfere with plugging the tube to keep the glue out of the insides, the cause of a million spit blanks upon assembly. I, as many do, press the brass tube into a sheet of bee's wax at both ends. That leaves a nice plug in each end of the tube. You put on some disposable gloves (your insertion aid) and coat the inside of the blank and outside of the tube with glue. Slide it in the blank with you fingers twirling a little as you go. When the glue sets you can scrape off any excess on the ends and do the same with the wax plugs. If you really want an insertion tool, one of the tops from a CA glue bottle work and we all seem to have them around. Often stuck on a bottle. :wink:

Then you are ready to trim the ends. I much prefer a bench disc sander over a pen mill. You can very cheaply use the faceplate that your lathe came with. Screw on a disc of plywood or MDF and true it up on the lathe, stick a piece of sandpaper on it. A little chunk cut off a PSA sander disc will do nicely. Put a drill chuck in the tailstock and a transfer punch in it. Slide the blank over the punch and move it to the disc and sand the end. Replace the sandpaper as needed.

So there are two gizmos in that kit you can toss.

Pete

 

[Garno]

Good advice, Thank you.

Looking forward to meeting you on Wednesday.

Gary

 

[Garno]

Pm sent

 

[Garno]

Don't buy anything!
I have examples of every way to mount, mill and turn pens so you can make your own mind up later!

Good advice, Thank you.

Looking forward to meeting you on Wednesday.

Gary

 

[Garno]

I’ve found the chuck Gary. It is a Morse taper 2 so if it fits your lathe you can have it if you want. I may have a collet as well but if not you’ll have to buy one (about £2.50) You’ll also need to buy a shaft and nut.

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[Garno]

One of the downsides to an insertion tool is they interfere with plugging the tube to keep the glue out of the insides, the cause of a million spit blanks upon assembly. I, as many do, press the brass tube into a sheet of bee's wax at both ends. That leaves a nice plug in each end of the tube. You put on some disposable gloves (your insertion aid) and coat the inside of the blank and outside of the tube with glue. Slide it in the blank with you fingers twirling a little as you go. When the glue sets you can scrape off any excess on the ends and do the same with the wax plugs. If you really want an insertion tool, one of the tops from a CA glue bottle work and we all seem to have them around. Often stuck on a bottle. :wink:

Then you are ready to trim the ends. I much prefer a bench disc sander over a pen mill. You can very cheaply use the faceplate that your lathe came with. Screw on a disc of plywood or MDF and true it up on the lathe, stick a piece of sandpaper on it. A little chunk cut off a PSA sander disc will do nicely. Put a drill chuck in the tailstock and a transfer punch in it. Slide the blank over the punch and move it to the disc and sand the end. Replace the sandpaper as needed.

So there are two gizmos in that kit you can toss.

Pete

Thank you ever so much for the in-depth reply. I am sure it will be something I will refer to.

Gary

 

[silver]

Gary, [MENTION=2366]Garno[/MENTION]

As I said when I spoke to you on the phone last, don’t buy anything until you have had time with Neil. You need to see what options are available and what direction you want to go.

As Mark (Flexi) said their are many ways to “skin a cat” so wait until you see all of them before you decide on a way to go.

You have a potential to “waste money” which is something you don’t need to do as training will be given and techniques will be shown in all aspects of turning a pen. So wait with baited breath and you will be surprised on what you will learn.

 

[howsitwork?]

Use a nail punch as an tube insertion tool . The Square shaft makes gripping easy and makes twisting as you insert the tube simple too.

I then got a chunk of HDPE ( white chopping board but don’t tell SWMBO ) and turned some tapered insertion tools to size for the tube sizes I use. Nothing sticks to that stuff so really easy to use and clean afterwards.

Back to original question and I would buy an Er20 chuck from Arceuro and a 1/4” collet then buy one of the spare mandrel rods or, with a mandrel saver just use silver steel.I’ve upgraded to that and it’s nice and accurate.