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Elm Burr Advice please

Bammer

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I've got some Elm Burr, quite a bit actually.

But there are quite a lot of voids, I have used some before with voids but never this many.

What suggestions would you give to filling them ?

Do I fill first or after turning a bit ?

Not really keen on sanding and filling with dust and ca ...

Ideas needed please

IMG_3526.jpg
 

Bigblackdog

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i would fill them with a dark pigmented epoxy.

personally i would do so when the piece is almost down to size, but the question is whether you can get it to that point. you may need to use CA to get it there. The blanks look like they have the potential to look very good when done though. elm is a favourite of mine.
 

woodhacker

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Peter also been called many others
I will be interested in the replies you get as I have tried the filling with dust and ca and it only filled the top of the holes.
When turned it tended to split and had to keep filling and cutting. :sob::sob:
 

Grump

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That's where I dilute ca with acetone and soak the blank in it.
Turn it down using ca all the way and fill with sawdust, I know it's not your preferred method but for me it's the best one.
Some people use brass or copper powder, others will stabilise with vacuum chambers and pump plastic init.
Lots of faffin for a few blanks in my opinion.
Bin em or send em to me is my advise.
 

Walter

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I pretty much agree with Brian on this one. My preference is to fill the voids with something that looks as though it was meant to be there and ca mixed with sawdust from the blank you are turning is as good as anything. Sometimes if what I am filling is a knot or dark area of the blank I colour the sawdust with wood stain to avoid a light coloured spot.

I don't like brass or copper powder to fill voids in pen blanks, to me it just looks like someone filled the voids with brass or copper powder. :rolling:
 

Bammer

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Thanks fella's

I should say that it's been in my shed for 20 years holding a bunch of bowl blanks in place, just found it last week when I was mooching about. It was like finding a long lost friend.

I reckon I can get 30+ 3/4 x 6 inch blanks out of it :love_it:

It's not all as "Burry" but probably half is

We shall see

If your a good lad Brian you may get a piece :winking:
 

Grump

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I pretty much agree with Brian on this one. My preference is to fill the voids with something that looks as though it was meant to be there and ca mixed with sawdust from the blank you are turning is as good as anything. Sometimes if what I am filling is a knot or dark area of the blank I colour the sawdust with wood stain to avoid a light coloured spot.

I don't like brass or copper powder to fill voids in pen blanks, to me it just looks like someone filled the voids with brass or copper powder. :rolling:

Wow that don't happen often init?
This momentous occasion deserves to be noted, ;ets frame a pic init?

ramme.jpg
 

Dalboy

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I think the filling with wood dust or metal powder is a personal thing, but I would rough turn close to finished size and fill with whatever medium you like. I like using metal powders but you need to pick which one will look best.

I did this pen and used the ali one to match the pen metalwork I would not have used the brass or copper as it would have looked totally out of place.
 

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Treeesa

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Hi Brad

If you hang on for a week or so until my Cactus arrives from Yankee Doodle land I'll stabilise some for you - I've got a load of Jarrah burl to do so I'm sure we can work something out
 

bluntchisel

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I think it's all been said - one thing about burr elm is that it's too good to be wasted!

And that's a beautiful pen you posted to make the point, Derek - a real piece of art!

Bob.
 

Bammer

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Sounds like a plan Andy:thumbs:

Thanks guys, I did suspect that the sanding and filling option was favourite

I do like that pen Derek, perhaps with that many voids filled it makes it better, an odd void filled may not look so good

Cheers
Brad
 

Pierre

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You can also fill with Liberon shellac filler sticks http://www.liberon.co.uk/gallery_files/site/2136/7731/7746/7757/16521.pdf

just get a small blowlamp like they use for crème caramels and heat the end of the stick drip it into the holes then get a piece of metal, I use a 10 cm metal ruler heat the end until hot like an iron and paste it in like you would window putty. After 10 seconds it cools and dries (small holes longer for big holes) and will turn just like wood, be careful if you use a buffing system, for some reason Tripoli wax eats it but white diamond doesn't.

The colours can be mixed to make various shades and each stick lasts for ages.

The master craftsmen who fix country house antiques use it all the time!! And I use it to fix grapevine voids.

PG
 

Jim

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I know it has been said Brad, but sand dust & CA would be my chosen method second to what Andy suggests. Stabilising is a much better result.

Here are some Burr Elm blanks that were very soft and would break if handled to heavy ..

A before and after picture and below a pen from one of the blanks ..

Stabilised Burr Elm Blanks

Stabilised Burr Elm Pen
 

Bammer

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I know it has been said Brad, but sand dust & CA would be my chosen method second to what Andy suggests. Stabilising is a much better result.

Here are some Burr Elm blanks that were very soft and would break if handled to heavy ..

A before and after picture and below a pen from one of the blanks ..

Stabilised Burr Elm Blanks

Stabilised Burr Elm Pen

Wow, they look fantastic, hmmm Andy got some work on his hands now :winking:


Might have to start looking into this stabalising business, but am thinking the cost of equipment required maybe too much to bare.

Certainly tempting looking at those, and what you have done before Jim

Cheers

Brad
 
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