Finishes

[Nicholas Andrews]

I appreciate this has been discussed many times before but there is currently an interesting dialogue on The International Association of Penturners members forum about pen finishing. I take this to be a concern with wood rather than acrylics as using one of the proprietary polishes on plastic materials seems to last a very long time in my experience. As the IAP forum suggests, the natural oils and acids in our own bodies will eventually affect the finish on pens whatever method of finishing is used. CA glue will probably hold out longer than most but might not be liked because it may have an artificial appearance. At least one pen maker who sell as a business states clearly pens have a wax polish. Using e.g. a hard wax oil in satin or gloss , which I prefer for most of my bowl work, gives a lovely finish which seems to be troubled less by body acids but does, of course, take several days and many coats to apply properly.
I would appreciate hearing from members with their own experiences about how long finishes on wooden pens last. And if we sell them should we be advising purchasers the finish is likely to change within a relatively short time of usage? Do we advise re-polishing? and, if so, with what product?

 

[silver]

Interesting points and yes been seems to have been discussed since BC.

I don’t use Polish as in my personal experience no matter what you use I have never had any success. I know that [MENTION=2403]TVS[/MENTION] has had some good experiences with a polish. Which I’m sure will come on and explain at some point.


I use Melamine Lacquer as a finish, great success and it’s great fully received by my customers. Who are the best ones to take advice from.

 

[TVS]

Not getting involved last time I got called a lier but I make and turn a lot of pens and sell them as quick as I can make them to returning customers all of my wood pens have a polish finish and have had for many years and that’s good enough for me in answer to the original question yes with any pen ou need to explained aftercare as indeed you do with any item you make

 

[flexi]

I have used CA and it can be very durable but takes away the wood feel and warmth (its also difficult to apply and you should have good ventilation). Personally I use Melamine laquer which isn't as thick so gives a more pleasent feel to the wood, it's easier to apply although it should be allowed 24hrs to fully harden. I also use Truoil on my walnut blanks and have a gunstock finish to them, again very durable and easily applied, but takes time to dry.
I have also tried a polyurethane varnish with a dipping method, an oil finish which has shellac and various other ingredients in but whilst quick and easy isn't as durable.
I think for as long as I have been turning, this has been debated even friction polish has been used with a microcrystalline wax top coat.......
I will continue to experiment, but stick with my 2 main styles at the moment, melamine and Truoil...... If a customer asks what to refinish a pen with, I usually say its good for a few years depending on usage, either return it to me for free or wipe microcrystalline wax on. I have only had one come back in 10+years but it had been through a washing machine

 

[Garno]

Being new to pen turning I seem to struggle no matter what I do but have found 2 or 3 coats of CA seems to work best for me whilst still keeping the wood feel.
Not everyone will agree with that and no doubt I will be asking again and again. I do like melamine though if used sparingly.
I like the idea of wax as well,

 

[alpha1]

I use Melamine.

 

[pittswood]

I have not used CA glue for some time now. Most of the pens I make now (Rhondda Tunnel Society, their Teak wood rail blocks), are wood sealed and two coats of Chestnut wood wax 22, polished between each coat. I know that different woods are better with some other wood finishes. I have been experimenting over the last years with different wood finishes on numerus woods and I have found a happy medium in my finishes.
Kelvin

 

[alan morrison]

I use a couple of different finishes.
Abranet to 600, buff with Tripoli, then White Diamond and finish with Carnauba wax.
sometimes Melamine Lacquer a la Phil Dart.

 

[Geoff Kent]

Melamine as per Phil Dart.I believe all finishes will eventually wear off if the pen is regularly used,to be replaced by a natural patina.Take a look at a well used wooden item,you will see what I mean.A lovely,aged,shine.

 

[wm460]

Wax doesn't last long here in the heat.
I would use Melamine if I could get it in Aust.

 

[AllenN]

I use melamine and I also include a note explaining that pens are meant to used and any wear on the pens caused by prolonged use should be looked on as a sign of affection. A touch of microcrystalline wax can add a bit of sparkle but I point out that is really just a cosmetic effect.

 

[Penpal]

I have used CA and it can be very durable but takes away the wood feel and warmth (its also difficult to apply and you should have good ventilation). Personally I use Melamine laquer which isn't as thick so gives a more pleasent feel to the wood, it's easier to apply although it should be allowed 24hrs to fully harden. I also use Truoil on my walnut blanks and have a gunstock finish to them, again very durable and easily applied, but takes time to dry.
I have also tried a polyurethane varnish with a dipping method, an oil finish which has shellac and various other ingredients in but whilst quick and easy isn't as durable.
I think for as long as I have been turning, this has been debated even friction polish has been used with a microcrystalline wax top coat.......
I will continue to experiment, but stick with my 2 main styles at the moment, melamine and Truoil...... If a customer asks what to refinish a pen with, I usually say its good for a few years depending on usage, either return it to me for free or wipe microcrystalline wax on. I have only had one come back in 10+years but it had been through a washing machine

Loved True Oil but it dries up in the container too fast for mine making it expensive.

 

[Phil Dart]

My views on finishing are pretty well known I think