First time using Bog oak

[ajmw89]

First time I've used Bog oak. Think it's turned out OK.

 

[ray7]

Looks good to me.

Ray

 

[Les ELm]

In the photo either the timber is rough or it's the finish.

Les

 

[ajmw89]

The timber has a couple of gaps, the finish is smooth.

 

[Vic Perrin]

Don't be dissapointed with the bog oak. I have done a few of these and it's not easy to get the finish you want on them. I have found that they always look better in the hand than when photographed. A good first time effort with what I think is a difficult material.

Vic

 

[Grump]

I wonder if it's reflection I am looking at cos it runs through the furniture too.
Like Vic says Bog Oak can be an arsehole to spin and get a finish on, I am sure that is one fine pen in the hand.
I don't think the pic shows it off to its glory something is rippling through.

 

[silver]

You have chosen a really difficult material to turn and finish. And then to take a picture of it as its a nightmare to do all things with.

The picture is probably not doing it justice TBH. The surface does look like it needs to be finished a little bit more.

you don't say what finish it is?.

Don't be disappointed, excellent first go and better an my first attempt..

 

[ajmw89]

It does look better in the flesh. I found it easier than regular oak to be honest.
Finish is as I use on all my wood pens.
Sanded to 12000 dry, then 2 coats of super thin CA, and 3 of thin. Once dried (don't like activator so I use a paint stripper heat gun) I sand wet to 12000 grit. Then finish with 3 coats of microcrystalline wax

 

[Neil]

It does look better in the flesh. I found it easier than regular oak to be honest.
Finish is as I use on all my wood pens.
Sanded to 12000 dry, then 2 coats of super thin CA, and 3 of thin. Once dried (don't like activator so I use a paint stripper heat gun) I sand wet to 12000 grit. Then finish with 3 coats of microcrystalline wax

Adam,

You are not achieving anything by using a heat gun on CA. You might in fact be doing harm.

CA glue is a polymerising adhesive with an inbuilt catalyst. The catalyst is activated by the absorption of water vapour from the air or the substance to be glued, or pressure. This is why, regardless of the set time on various thick or tin glues, the blanks can grab the tubes when inserting them if CA has been used. Heat is not a factor in the curing of ca glue.

I'll be blunt, but in sanding to 12000, (I take it with micromesh) and then applying CA you are wasting a lot of time and also a lot of micromesh. Sanding past 400, or 600 at most before applying CA is a waste of time, the glue will hide any imperfections that excessive sanding would remove. Dont forget that 1500 micromesh is virtually equivalent to 600 grit on the scale that wet and dry and other sandpaper is measured on, micromesh is measured on a different abrasive scale.

 

[silver]

I dare say it does look better in the flesh, I never doubted it.

Using a heat gun in IMHO is just a waste of time as CA is an exothermic setting material and sets quicker with a little moisture.

Ever wonder why it sets instantly it contacts your skin?

Check out the wiki link Cyanoacrylate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia that will help explain it better than me waffling on...

 

[Penpal]

Heat Gun fine dust around recipe for combustion with chemicals and dust.

Peter.

 

[Penpal]

Some timbers especially Black Palm, Grass Trees etc sandpaper earlier can be your best friend.

Peter.

 

[Jim]

I used this wood once a long time ago, i swore i would never use it again .. This one looks better than the one i made and binned .. Well done Adam ..

 

[paulm]

I think, like Brian that you've got a reflection there which doesn't show it off to its best and with Neil that its not worth sanding past 400 when applying ca. Wet and dry the ca to finish to 600,1200, 2000.

 

[ajmw89]

I use the heat gun more due to the fact the shed is about 2°! It stays about arms length away from the work, so just provides warmth more than anything. I understand about the reactions etc, have yet to cock this method up and it seems to work for me at the moment
Warmer weather will be a test to see if it keeps working.

Sanding really depends on what I can be bothered to do. Sometimes I go up to 600, then dry micro mesh to 12000 before applying the CA, then wet and dry mm. Other times I just go to 600, then apply CA and wet not dry Mm. No rhyme or reason, I just do what feels right at the time. So long as I get a nice smooth, shiny finish, I'm happy and whoever I'm making it for is happy.

Not really fussed about a right way and a wrong way to finish pens. So long as whatever method I use works and I'm happy with the finished product, then that's what I'll do.

 

[wm460]

Well done Adam.