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Terry Q
Fellow
No, friction polish is not very robust and will fail quickly.
I only use microcrystalline hard stick from Hampshire Sheen over melamine.
No!
Durability is low and soon wears off. Melamine lacquer, Yorkshire grit to finish and then a polish with red wax.
Durability is low and soon wears off. Melamine lacquer, Yorkshire grit to finish and then a polish with red wax.
Actually, friction polish is the generic term for a finish that cures quickly with heat from friction. The most common examples are based on shellac, but it is possible for friction polishes to also be based on lacquer. Lacquer-based friction polishes tend to be much harder than shellac-based friction polishes. I have used lacquer-based friction polish on pens, and it holds up extremely well.
There is are several commercial lacquer-based friction polishes - William Woodright (in Canada) and PSI (in the US) both have a private-label version (which appears to actually be the same product), and I believe that the Behlen's brand friction polish contains lacquer rather than shellac.
I make my own lacquer-based friction polish - a 1:1:1 mixture of a pure drying oil (I prefer Tung oil but Boiled Linseed or Walnut oil would also work), whatever brand of brushing lacquer I can find at the hardware store, and generic lacquer thinner.
There is are several commercial lacquer-based friction polishes - William Woodright (in Canada) and PSI (in the US) both have a private-label version (which appears to actually be the same product), and I believe that the Behlen's brand friction polish contains lacquer rather than shellac.
I make my own lacquer-based friction polish - a 1:1:1 mixture of a pure drying oil (I prefer Tung oil but Boiled Linseed or Walnut oil would also work), whatever brand of brushing lacquer I can find at the hardware store, and generic lacquer thinner.
Eamonn I use the microcrystalline so the pen can be used while the melamine cures, which takes 7 days. When the polish eventually wears off you’re left with a nice melamine finish. Having said that ,microcrystalline is hard wearing so lasts a long time.
I have always finished my pens with polish and have done for over 50 years and have never once had a complaint but I do agree on the use of friction polish for a good polish finish you need to do it properly also I do instruct on how to care for your pen same with polished bowls I have this at the top of my page every now and then depending on how often they are handled they would benefit from a light polish with good old fashioned furniture polish cover the item with a light coat of the polish then let it dry for about 20 min then give it a light buff and it will come up like new. and I will continue to do so till I cant do it anymore you will find all the so called experts will disagree with me but I did promise myself I would never get involuted in these discussions again so I wont say anymore
Thanks for that Bill, I had seen it when Chestnut did a presentation the makers central in 2018 that I went too, Terry was presenting and was very helpful. apparently 90% cured within the first 7 days and then the rest over the next two weeks.
That said, there is a cheat to get it to harden much quicker.
Totally agree with what you are saying Terry, however, I don't have the experience or skill that you have and have never had a great durable finish with any friction polishes.
Many of my regular customers were always asking for something more durable and "less faff" as they felt that they was always attempting to polish their pens. The collectors don't have that problem as they are not handling their pens with the hand.