Gluing

[Robert]

Apologies if this is a basic question, bear with me

Inspired by some of the threads on here, I've decided to make a segmented pen from wood.

So I've glued up four sticks of contrasting colours, ready to be drilled, cut then glued together around the brass barrel at my evening class tomorrow night

So my question is, which glue is best for this part? Obviously I've used wood glue to put the sticks together. And I would normally use 5 minute epoxy resin or superglue to put barrels into either drilled wood or acrylic blanks.

I'd quite like to use something quick setting so I can turn it tomorrow night too, but if it takes time and I have to wait to get the best result, so be it.

Thanks in advance

Rob

 

[rayf6604]

I use titebond polyurethane glue. If you glued it today it would certainly be ok to use tomorrow

 

[paulm]

I use ca. A thick one will fill smallish gaps.

 

[Doug]

I prefer either PU or epoxy for gluing tubes into blanks, both would be set in the time you stipulate

 

[Neil]

All will set in time. The bond between tubes and wood will be achieved by all three, although the thinner the CA the less likely this is to be true.

Mess value - Ca glues most things you want to and everything you dont want to! Polyurethane should be used with gloves and if it gets on you is a nighmare to get off. Epoxy you can wipe off with industrial hand wipes.

CA gives you little or no time to twist the tubes and to ensure coverage and can catch you unawares and leave you with the tube half way in the blank. Polyurethane expands as it sets which makes it an excellent gap filler but it means that it can push the tubes out of the blank and therefore the tubes need to be restrained.

Because PU is messy and can move the tubes, and CA is not a good gap filler, I use epoxy, but try them all over time and see which you prefer. The other influential factor is the method you use of squaring off the blanks. If you use a pen mill then use what you like - I have had failures with CA because the bond is not as good as PU and epoxy. If you are using a sander ( i do) the dont use PU as the residue gums up the discs. Although Epoxy states that it is 5 min/15 min or 30 etc the stuff reaches full strength after 6 to 24 hours, this can affect the amount of times yuo need to change the sanding discs as it tends to gum up the discs if you try and use them very soon after gluing.

 

[wm460]

I use Selleys Araldite Super Strength, take two hours to gel, but ready next day.

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&...=nSdhldISwr42csIAgbYKsA&bvm=bv.68693194,d.dGI

 

[Woody]

I use med to thick CA just a cheep one BondFix 50g SUPER-GLUE ADHESIVE. HIGH STRENGTH. HIGH SPEED. | eBay they take longer to cure giving more than enough time to line everything up and they will fill fine gaps and I have never had a failure in all the years I have been using it.
Polyurethane is another very good one especially if you dampen the parts to be glued the water activates the glue but because it foams up segmenting needs to be clamped and it will be cured after a few hours but best left till the next day and any excess can be just cut off with a pen knife leaving perfectly smooth bit of wood

 

[chas_41_uk]

CA or epoxy as already stated. I use both dependent on what it is on and for. If your in a rush for the glue to go off the CA is what you want. If you're happy to wait between 30 minutes and 24 hours (dependent on setting times) then it is epoxy

 

[bassethound]

Yep,what Chas said !

 

[Kawakers]

I use medium CA, but I'm no expert, unlike some on here