How to transfer a flat pattern onto a curved bowl?

[MarkNotts]

Hiya I went to the UKIWS event in Coventry on Saturday and picked up a wizardry in wood magazine with incredible work in it, now i dont expect to be able to do anything like this... Redirect Notice

But carving sections out of a thin walled bowl I could try, I have a dremel and some engravers already but can anyone advise me on how to transfer a pattern onto a curved surface? Or if there is any video tutorials anywhere as I have searched on youtube already and all I can find is engraving onto flat surfaces or onto clay before lifting the edges to form a bowl?

 

[MarkNotts]

another example without a redirect

 

[Vic Perrin]

Hi Mark and welcome to the forum. Trying to replicate that work of art might be a difficult starter project

 

[MarkNotts]

Hi Mark and welcome to the forum. Trying to replicate that work of art might be a difficult starter project

Thanks for the welcome, but Im not aiming to replicate its just an example of what id like to try on a simple thin walled turned bowl, I just need help finding out how to stencil or stick a flat printed pattern around a curved bowl, then I can use the stencil to carve out pieces with a dremel and sand edges.

 

[Buckeye]

another example without a redirect

I haven't done it, but a friend of mine traced the pattern onto cling film using fine felt tip pens then wrapped it on the wood and cut through, he had to keep tracing and adjusting the pattern as he went round the vase. It was quite fiddly, but he managed to complete it successfully.

Peter

 

[donwatson]

Hi Mark,
I made this a while ago as an experiment. I may be able to explain how I did this as it was easy to cut and a slip here and there is never noticed. After I made this I was given some dentists grinders that are very small in preparation for making some more delicate work but I never managed to make anything.



PS This is the second go at posting this, it is getting increasingly difficult to search for stuff to post without getting logged out

 

[MarkNotts]

Thanks Buckeye its certainly a thing to consider and theres possibly another medium to use other than clingfilm maybe smaller pieces transfered on then blend the gaps between the sections of transfer

 

[MarkNotts]

Thanks Don that bowl looks nice by the way, tbh I could do with as much help as possible, Im hoping to have time at the weekend to make a thin wall bowl to try and carve something out of it, or even a goblet as I have a lot more goblet blanks than bowl blanks :) I went a bit over the top at UKIWS with the blanks!

 

[Dalboy]

What kind of pattern are you trying to replicate is it the flower shapes with the heart shaped cut outs around them or is it the larger curved sections. As each requires a different approach

 

[donwatson]

Hi Mark,
I tried to reply earlier but for some unknown reason I find I am logged out when I post the reply. Hope youget it sorted ok.

 

[Scots Bill]

Hi Mark, I am a great admirer of pierced work the lady turner Joey Richardson is very good at this. You could think orange peal and apply your design as in quartered or eighth of an orange. There is a paper, sold in art shops that I use in my paintings.
It is called trace down. Very like carbon paper but it is graphite so just marks like a pencil. Dental suppliers sell a huge range of burrs, I used a lot when glass engraving. Ordinary burrs can be got from Axminster for example. The finer diamond grit ones are great for smoothing and removing burn marks. I carved a platter with acer leaves cut out around the edge, it sold no bother, but the time it took!! Hope some of that helps mark, if I can give any more just ask.

 

[Penpal]

Thanks for the pics from the weekend mate you sure set the standard with these as examples.

Peter.

 

[MarkNotts]

What kind of pattern are you trying to replicate is it the flower shapes with the heart shaped cut outs around them or is it the larger curved sections. As each requires a different approach

Thanks buddy, id like to try all types over time, it looks to me like there are sections cut at varying depths like the white spire on the right with the black spires behind, in the middle of the white spire there is a cutout shape like a No8 with a curl underneith, the curl and 8 outline look higher off the background detail so Im assuming there was some sort of guide bushing or depth stop to do the curl and 8, then adjusted deeper to do the rest of the shaping around it.

Also the flowers bordered with red look like the cutter is set to engrave shallow as to not cut all the way through for the stems.

A lot of depth adjustment was used like I have done with a wood router before albeit with a 5mm 1/4 inch shank bit, way to vicious for this :) , but its the best way to transfer a pattern to start with thats the most foggy

 

[MarkNotts]

Hi Mark,
I tried to reply earlier but for some unknown reason I find I am logged out when I post the reply. Hope youget it sorted ok.

Sorry to hear it, have you tried using another web browser like firefix or chrome? Also if using a pc or phone to browse every now and then its best to clear temporary internet files/cache as old scripts can cause problems, this could also speed up browsing a bit, just remember to jot down log in details for sites you use as clearing cache will mean clearing auto logins.

 

[MarkNotts]

Hi Mark, I am a great admirer of pierced work the lady turner Joey Richardson is very good at this. You could think orange peal and apply your design as in quartered or eighth of an orange. There is a paper, sold in art shops that I use in my paintings.
It is called trace down. Very like carbon paper but it is graphite so just marks like a pencil. Dental suppliers sell a huge range of burrs, I used a lot when glass engraving. Ordinary burrs can be got from Axminster for example. The finer diamond grit ones are great for smoothing and removing burn marks. I carved a platter with acer leaves cut out around the edge, it sold no bother, but the time it took!! Hope some of that helps mark, if I can give any more just ask.

Wow cheers Bill you have given me a lot of insight there and burning was simething i was thinking about also in the back of my mind.

 

[donwatson]

Thanks buddy, id like to try all types over time, it looks to me like there are sections cut at varying depths like the white spire on the right with the black spires behind, in the middle of the white spire there is a cutout shape like a No8 with a curl underneith, the curl and 8 outline look higher off the background detail so Im assuming there was some sort of guide bushing or depth stop to do the curl and 8, then adjusted deeper to do the rest of the shaping around it.

Also the flowers bordered with red look like the cutter is set to engrave shallow as to not cut all the way through for the stems.

A lot of depth adjustment was used like I have done with a wood router before albeit with a 5mm 1/4 inch shank bit, way to vicious for this :) , but its the best way to transfer a pattern to start with thats the most foggy

It looks as if you have a very good idea as to how to approach this. I would say go for it but don't spend a lot of time at first in turning very thin bowls. You have obviously put a lot of thought into it so it really is practice and more practice and learn from the mistakes. We are all rooting for you.

 

[Scots Bill]

Aye Mark all the advice from others is valuable to you. I was thinking of what I tried to explain about an orange skin.If you look at an atlas they often depict the globe sort of opened out, so segments, but still joined in the centre. If you found a length of paper that goes round your bowl, cut it to that length and cut in as I am trying to describe then you would have a base to draw on. But in fact if you concentrate on the larger things, birds, butterflies, or what ever, get those marked out. Then cut. you could infill the rest with bits and bobs.
To blacken, or otherwise colour some of it, then cut dimples with a round nosed burr will give you that dimpled effect.:wink:

 

[wm460]

I will be following this with interest,