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Jar for sanding sealer
- Thread starter Themackay
- Start date
woodhacker
Fellow
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- Aug 22, 2015
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- 1,999
- Location
- Scot in exile in North East England
- First Name
- Peter also been called many others
as Geordie. clean lid before replacing
Penpal
Grand Master
Look for regular shaped brushes better sealing then careful of the slosh.
Peter.
Peter.
wm460
Grand Master
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2013
- Posts
- 23,133
- First Name
- Mark
How would one of these go?
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...X&ved=0ahUKEwjW6pWZ-_zJAhVGYaYKHTz_BVAQsxgIGw
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...X&ved=0ahUKEwjW6pWZ-_zJAhVGYaYKHTz_BVAQsxgIGw
Jam jar & clean the jar thread.
Oil filter pliers
Lons
Fellow
I have the same Alan, but also use a plastic sauce bottle for the small stuff ..
View attachment 23337
Hope you don't take that into the kitchen Jim, would get a nasty surprise if you put it on your chips
Waxing the jar lid threads stops sealer sticking.
donwatson
Fellow
I use jam jar and wipe the lid. Still have to renew it occasionally :wink:
BTW I purchased 5 litres of Cellulose Floor Sealer, over 5 years ago, for £22.64. The local paint spray company supplied 5 litres of Cellulose Thinner (top grade) for £9.79. Mixed both together as needed (50-50). I am still using it but it is almost finished. Will need to start again this year
BTW I purchased 5 litres of Cellulose Floor Sealer, over 5 years ago, for £22.64. The local paint spray company supplied 5 litres of Cellulose Thinner (top grade) for £9.79. Mixed both together as needed (50-50). I am still using it but it is almost finished. Will need to start again this year
Last edited:
Lons
Fellow
That's the one..That would be for a pound then graeme
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ni9eofse7en
Registered
Babies bottles from Superdrug and pastry brushes from Morrison. Good seal from teat on to round handle.
wm460
Grand Master
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2013
- Posts
- 23,133
- First Name
- Mark
Hope you don't take that into the kitchen Jim, would get a nasty surprise if you put it on your chips
Waxing the jar lid threads stops sealer sticking.
Might make Mcdonald's taste a bit better.
I often have to decant thinned sanding sealer into jars at work, but would never consider doing it at home.
I basically do a 60/40 mix in one of the tins it is supplied in, and add extra thinners over time if needed.
I only apply sealer with a brush if I'm working on "punky wood" between cuts to help with the removal of tear out, otherwise it is applied with kitchen towel, near the final outcome to spot any hidden defects. I only use Cellulose by the way.
Metal on metal threads will usually be unglued by a quick shake of the can.
I basically do a 60/40 mix in one of the tins it is supplied in, and add extra thinners over time if needed.
I only apply sealer with a brush if I'm working on "punky wood" between cuts to help with the removal of tear out, otherwise it is applied with kitchen towel, near the final outcome to spot any hidden defects. I only use Cellulose by the way.
Metal on metal threads will usually be unglued by a quick shake of the can.
Wife buys a lot of stuff at the supermarket that comes in jars or bottles that are designed to be thrown away when they are empty.
As a matter of principle, and having a frugal upbringing, I have long believed that it is better to reuse those containers rather than buying new containers. So the finishing material in my shop are all in recycled containers. Most are plastic (safer in a shop with a concrete floor), but I do prefer glass for some things.
Yes, occasionally a bottle will reach the end of its useful life and need to be thrown out. But I don't feel at all guilty about that if I've been able to extend its usefulness by a few years. A common example is that I mix my own Danish Oil from the bulk constituents - oil (I prefer Tung oil), solvent (Turpentine), and a commercial alykd varnish. This is stored in a small recycled glass spice jar. Because the jar is small (less than 100ml), the finish tends to get used before it spoils, and the bulk constituents last longer in their original containers. But eventually, a ring of dried finish builds up around the top of the jar. When it gets to the point where that ring interferes with screwing on the plastic closure, I dispose of the jar - but it the process the usefullness of that jar has been extended by several years.
I am careful to remove the original food labels, and I always mark the containers to clearly indicate the new contents. And when our children were small enough to worry about such things, the bottles were kept in a locked room.
As a matter of principle, and having a frugal upbringing, I have long believed that it is better to reuse those containers rather than buying new containers. So the finishing material in my shop are all in recycled containers. Most are plastic (safer in a shop with a concrete floor), but I do prefer glass for some things.
Yes, occasionally a bottle will reach the end of its useful life and need to be thrown out. But I don't feel at all guilty about that if I've been able to extend its usefulness by a few years. A common example is that I mix my own Danish Oil from the bulk constituents - oil (I prefer Tung oil), solvent (Turpentine), and a commercial alykd varnish. This is stored in a small recycled glass spice jar. Because the jar is small (less than 100ml), the finish tends to get used before it spoils, and the bulk constituents last longer in their original containers. But eventually, a ring of dried finish builds up around the top of the jar. When it gets to the point where that ring interferes with screwing on the plastic closure, I dispose of the jar - but it the process the usefullness of that jar has been extended by several years.
I am careful to remove the original food labels, and I always mark the containers to clearly indicate the new contents. And when our children were small enough to worry about such things, the bottles were kept in a locked room.