Kitless pens

[alpha1]

I have decided to have a go at making a kitless pen probably a fountain pen.
I have purchased a bunch of taps and dies from various sources. Watched endless youtube videoes. I should have all the tooling and taps and dies etc by the end of next week. Then I intend to give it a go. I have sold nearly all the kit pens I have Made I have an order for ten pens, Im, working on so I have some funds to invest in the project.
I would appreciate any advice from guys who are creating kitless pens.

Cheers Dave

 

[flexi]

All I will say is good luck, many have tried and succeeded it's a great talent to be able to do, but not for me yet....I have done part/ hybrid kits and that's as far as I am going...love to see the results

 

[Penpal]

Unless you have or find a niche market costing the time,material and results is vital before making further decisions.

Peter.

 

[fortress]

Good luck with that Dave, but it’s something that I Myself have never tried.

 

[Frederick]

Good luck with that one. I hope it turns (no pun intended) out for you OK. I have a bit of a way to go yet before I try making kitless pens, I often wondered if you could thread wood and if so, what wood.
I would have thought that Acrylic etc might be a little easier. As I say, good luck and would love to see the results.

Cheers
Frederick

 

[alpha1]

I'm thinking of Acrylic. I will keep you updated It may all go horribly wrong. It's not going to be a cheap exercise. But its something I want to do. Even if it's only once.

 

[angelo49]

You're off to a good start Dave.
I've made a few kitless fountain and rollerball pens, even a mechanical pencil
using Pentel parts.
Keep notes and sketches along the way so you don't make the same mistake
more than ''2 times''. DAMHIK!!
I also have a metal lathe, so making special bushing, mandrels, and getting better
accuracy when turning, drilling, and threading is a plus.
Keep us posted!!

 

[alpha1]

I also have a metal lathe in fact I do most of my pen turning on it. I have several chucks for it including a 4 jaw self centering chuck a collet chuck and an adapted pen blank holding chuck. All the threading and mandrels will be turned on the metal lathe. Im not new to turning and threading etc I have cut threads using the lathe. Im hoping all goes well. Fingers crossed.

 

[angelo49]

''I also have a metal lathe in fact I do most of my pen turning on it. I have several chucks for it including a 4 jaw self centering chuck a collet chuck and an adapted pen blank holding chuck. All the threading and mandrels will be turned on the metal lathe. Im not new to turning and threading etc I have cut threads using the lathe.''

This is exactly what I do!!! The 4 jaw sc scroll chuck is my favorite. Got tired of swapping collets.

 

[Penpal]

Collets smollets ,just need care,good lighting,time and persistence. The real benefit of collets is their comparative small sizes and less barking of your hands, more room to manouver and so much closer to the holding point.Depending on your metal lathe size. Size matters.

Peter.

 

[alpha1]

I had a go today I cut a thread to accept a Bock number 5 nib section, unfortunately, the beufort ink pump does not fit through the threaded hole so I won't be able to use them. Hmm back to the drawing board. The Beaufort ink pump is 7.8mm wide the recommended drill size for the Bock tap is 7.5mm so obviously it doesn't add up.
Unless I have misunderstood the instructions which is perfectly possible.

 

[alpha1]

I did some further investigation I can use Waterman or parker ink refills but that's not what I wanted to do. Maybe some of the other companies ink pumps will fit I will have to check it out. I wonder if I can skim the Beufort ink pump down to 7.4mm might be worth a try.

 

[alpha1]

I just reread the bumph on Beuforts web site their converters are not designed to work with the Bock offerings. They are designed to work with pen kits. I should have paid more attention when reading the instructions before ordering stuff. Maybe the Bock bits are not the way to go. I should have just checked in my engineering store and seen what I had available. Oh well, its only money.
I guess the bits I turned today ain't going to work so its the scrap bin for them I guess. It's all a learning curve.

 

[wm460]

Good luck with that Dave, I will follow this thread with interest.

 

[angelo49]

Collets smollets ,just need care,good lighting,time and persistence. The real benefit of collets is their comparative small sizes and less barking of your hands, more room to maneuver and so much closer to the holding point.Depending on your metal lathe size. Size matters.
Peter.

You're absolutely right Peter. Much more room with collets.
My knuckles took a beating when I first got the 4 jaw chuck

 

[angelo49]

Dave, threading and the clearance involved for all parts was a problem when I first started.
Ruined many blanks at first.
You know what they say, ''If at first you don't succeed..............

 

[alpha1]

I found an ink converter that fits so I could use a Bock nib if I wanted. The journey continues. Some more taps and dies arrived today in the post. Nearly ready to give it a go.

 

[angelo49]

I've only ever used Jowo #5 and #6 nibs
and the long refill and Shmidt converter.

 

[Phil Dart]

I had a go today I cut a thread to accept a Bock number 5 nib section, unfortunately, the beufort ink pump does not fit through the threaded hole so I won't be able to use them. Hmm back to the drawing board. The Beaufort ink pump is 7.8mm wide the recommended drill size for the Bock tap is 7.5mm so obviously it doesn't add up.
Unless I have misunderstood the instructions which is perfectly possible.

You can use them in fact Dave, but you have to enlarge the female minor to 8mm once you've tapped the hole. It was a bit of an own goal on the part of Bock when they produced the thread on their ready made sections at 8.5 x 1.0, but the connection between section and body takes no stress, so in fact you could probably remove upto about three quarters of the thread and it would not make any difference to it's integrity. The way to go is drill to 7.5, thread the hole, then ream or re-drill to 8mm, and the problem is solved.

 

[alpha1]

Thanks for that I will give it a go I think I might have just the reamer to do the job.