Laminating issue

[Midnight_Turner]

So this is the first time I tried this and it's not looking good so far - any ideas why?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bigblackdog]

is it oak end grain, something long grain, oak end grain, something long grain, oak end grain?

i think that may be the issue? the end grain glue bond and a very thin slice of oak end grain.

are your tools freshly sharpened?

 

[Walter]

As Mark says, the mix of cross and end grain is the problem. It is much more difficult to get a consistent cut because the hardness of the wood varies and you are changing from cutting with the grain to cutting against it several thousand times per minute depending on your lathe speed.

Very sharp tools and very light cuts are needed preferably with a skew making a shearing rather than a scraping cut.

You also appear to be using an open grained timber (oak) and something with a tighter grain which will exacerbate the problem.

 

[Phil Dart]

I think Mark has it. You are chipping away at a very thin veneer of oak endgrain, which in those circumstances doesn't stand a chance. You could try stabilising it with a saturation of something like CA, but even then and with the utmost in skilled ultra sharp tool presentation, I think you will have your work cut out.

I would like to be proved wrong though, and hats off if you manage it.

Edit: oops, we appear to be saying the same thing Walter - posts crossed, sorry.

 

[Penpal]

By the time you get to the round you have reached a very sensitive area on the blank. Lately I have been using the bandsaw and disk sander on very delicate blanks with great advantage in my approach. Being so used to normal and burl timbers they are OK but for plastic and laminated this is now the go to for me.

Peter.

 

[Bill Mooney]

It's all been said but you can try this. Sharp skew used with light planing cuts. Coat the blank with soft paste wax or sanding wax before making your cuts as the wax lubricates the tool allowing it to cut the end grain instead of plucking it out. Coat the blank as many times as you need. Also sand through the grits at 500 - 700rpm using the wax. After sanding give a coat of cellulose sanding sealer then denib. The s/sealer will kill the wax so you can apply your preferred finish. If using the skew doesn't give the desired grit start sanding with the 40 grit or 80 grit gouge using the wax. Hope this helps.

 

[Midnight_Turner]

So one turned out ok!!! The other, let's not talk about that one!!!

So the oak I'm using came from floor boards, and I think I must have cut it the wrong way round on the bandsaw, it felt a bit weird when I was at it to be fair - now I know why!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wm460]

Use an 80 grit gouge.

 

[Walter]

So one turned out ok!!! The other, let's not talk about that one!!!

You did well to hold that one together. A little bit of tearout but, as Mark says, a bit of sanding will sort it out.

 

[Terry Q]

Miles you can soak your blanks with thin CA as you turn. Soak, turn until you remove that area then soak again, turn again, soak, turn until you get to the final size. Not the perfect solution, stabilizing would have been better. Cross grain can be very pretty.

 

[Penpal]

Everything I can get in timber blanks or cut myself I prefer cross cut. I remember when I first started it was like a revelation here on the U Beaut Forum. I also remember why, it was using one of my favourites Hairy Oak, started a life experience for so many turners. Like the idea of stabilizing for some timbers Terry very appropriate.

Peter