Light pull drive

[rayf6604]

Just wondering if anyone has used one of these and if there is really any difference between using this or a standard dead centre and live centre for turning light pulls? (which is how I saw Woody making his light pulls for Neil's auction last year)

Light Pull Drive MT2 - Other Accessories - Lathe Accessories - Accessories

 

[Phil Dart]

They work, as does Woody's method. For myself, I've always got one eye on the clock, so I use a dead stebcentre and a tiny live centre the other end. The advantage of the stebcentre is that whereas it is designed to fit an 8mm bore, the portion that is exposed outside of the bore is narrower than 8mm, which means that you can turn, sand and finish all in one hit without the drive method interfering or getting in the way. Whereas, with the drive in your link, if you want to, say, cut a bead at the bottom off your light pull for instance, you're either going to hit the drive with your gouge or you are going to have to leave some scrap to finish off the lathe. I hope that makes sense.

 

[Penpal]

Light pulls are quite rare out here we do not have that much surface electric wiring that require them but saying that modern demands for huge numbers of additional lights and power points will change that in time.Choice of hole size in the light pull would allow a mandrel 7mm eg to be used or any number of choices.

Peter.

 

[Doug]

Looks like a solution looking for a problem to me
Just turn a bit of scrap wood to a very slight taper to match the hole drill in your blank, tap the blank onto the taper & get turning.
The added bonus being if you catch the taper with your chisel of choice it's not going to get damaged.

 

[Dalboy]

Can't help but I have one of these brought it amoung some other stuff will have to give it a go sometime

 

[Grump]

It's all a matter of whether you want one or want to spend your money or not.
All these gadgets and gizmo's work but there is always an alternative, what suits one person will not suit another.
I have my methods of turning light pulls which seems to differ from others but works for me.
I use whatever is on the lathe at the time whether it be drive centre or a chuck but I surely will not waste my hard earned on a fancy must have init?

 

[Goulss]

I have used these two for 15 years now, and they have done 100's of light pulls, get the grinder going, the smaller one is made from a diesel injector.

 

[paulm]

I'd buy one if I were you... then tell us if they're good or not

 

[Jim]

I have one, but i have never used it, i found i never needed to ..

 

[Woody]

I made one of them years ago yes they do grip the wood well but to be honest I dont think they are worth the bother a dead centre dose the job just as well for them to be most effective your large hole has to be exactly the right depth so that both parts of the drive are in contact with wood
Another way is to just put a hard bit of wood or aluminium in your chuck and turn it to a point and use that as a dead centre that way you can make it to your own specification

 

[Shaver]

I made one years ago from a morse taper 6mm drill. Grind the drill off at the end of the flutes then grind a 90deg 2 sided point on what's left of the drill like a blunt screwdriver. Works a treat. If you have a morse taper jacobs chuck just use a piece of steel round bar. Prepare your blank by drilling a 2mm through hole, Then drill one end 12mm deep using a drill same dia. as your rod.

I have one of those drives you show and if the holes are not just right the work does spin very easily.

 

[rayf6604]

I'd buy one if I were you... then tell us if they're good or not

You're too funny Paul

No, reason I ask is I was talking to someone at the fair yesterday who makes light pulls and they told me about this drive and I was looking for other opinions on them. As you say Doug, it seems like an invention for a problem that doesn't really exist. Having seen Woody use the dead/live centre to make them I naturally used that myself. They were saying it's important to make sure the wood is centred and the drive makes sure of that, but I was thinking it'll be centred alright and I've made all the pulls in the pic that way

 

[rayf6604]

I made one of them years ago yes they do grip the wood well but to be honest I dont think they are worth the bother a dead centre dose the job just as well for them to be most effective your large hole has to be exactly the right depth so that both parts of the drive are in contact with wood
Another way is to just put a hard bit of wood or aluminium in your chuck and turn it to a point and use that as a dead centre that way you can make it to your own specification

Woody, the way I've been doing them is to cut a pen blank to about 40mm long then drill a 3mm hole all the way through then turn and finish it. I then widen the bottom hole on the pillar drill to take the knot of the cord.

 

[Grump]

They were saying it's important to make sure the wood is centred

What a load of bollocks, tell them to think about what they are saying.
If the hole goes all the way through and it will have to to cord it, albeit differing diameters, and the blank is mounted with the centres in the holes it can't be anything else but centered with the holes init?
Unless their lathe is offline in which case they will all be of center anyway, sounds like they spend to much time lining up on crooked beds and no time spinning.

 

[Bill Mooney]

Don't see the need for one.

 

[wm460]

I remember light pulls from years ago, but they went the way of the dinosaurs.