Macassar Ebony

[Garno]

I have spent all day trying to put a finish on a Macassar Ebony pen blank.

I Sanded to 600 grit and cleaned with Meth Spirits until the cloth I was applying it with stopped coming back black. I then put sanding sealer on, around 6 or 7 coats, until it looked even.
I then tried applying CA, for whatever reason it just would not take, it was like curdled milk. I tried again (using the same blank) after sanding back to the wood and put a tiny bit of CA on only for the same thing to happen, I rinsed and repeated for the 3rd time and it happened again. I will try it for the fourth time tomorrow and if no joy I will move on to a different wood on a new blank.
The CA is well inside it's best before date as is the sanding sealer. Could it be the oils from the wood reacting with the CA that is the problem?

 

[flexi]

Sometimes their are things that don't work, sometimes you need to go back to the drawing board.... Time will educate you which and when.....
Personally I have a couple of timbers that require alternative methods, tbh since I have gone to Melamine it's got a lot better,
I still prefer a London gunstock finish on my Walnut pens (I source the wood from old stocks, still oily) and black Wenge because its very open....
If you get no joy with CA, you could try Melamine or Acrylic laquer.... BUT let it dry don't be inpatient!!, I can take a week to finish a walnut pen

 

[Garno]

I think I will sand it back again and try something different [MENTION=626]flexi[/MENTION]

It may sound daft but I'm relieved to hear that it could just be the wood, not sure it can take too many more sand backs without looking odd for the kit, good practise though

 

[Chriscb]

For oily or very hard woods I tend to sand to 400 grit (going through the grades), then use micro-mesh from 1500 - 12000, cleaning with meths after each grade. As you get down to the very high grades - from around 2400 - you'll see the shine develop. After that, I'll leave it as bare wood, or perhaps give a shine with wax - microcrystalline or similar, but not often unless the customer has requested a wax finish. Ebony and other hardwoods take on a lustre with use that can't be replicated, so I use that as a selling point.

 

[Garno]

For oily or very hard woods I tend to sand to 400 grit (going through the grades), then use micro-mesh from 1500 - 12000, cleaning with meths after each grade. As you get down to the very high grades - from around 2400 - you'll see the shine develop. After that, I'll leave it as bare wood, or perhaps give a shine with wax - microcrystalline or similar, but not often unless the customer has requested a wax finish. Ebony and other hardwoods take on a lustre with use that can't be replicated, so I use that as a selling point.

Do you not put sanding sealer on it? And would Carnauba wax be suitable?

 

[wm460]

[MENTION=626]flexi[/MENTION] What sort of Acrylic Lacquer do you use?

 

[flexi]

Hi Mark,
Sorry it's another UK product....
Acrylic Lacquer – Chestnut Products – First for Finishes

 

[Garno]

Hi Mark,
Sorry it's another UK product....
Acrylic Lacquer – Chestnut Products – First for Finishes

With it being water based is it safe to use sanding sealer with it?

 

[Chriscb]

Do you not put sanding sealer on it? And would Carnauba wax be suitable?

No, I don't seal the wood - I've found that any sealer tends not to 'stick'. I much prefer to let the wood acquire a lustre through use. I guess Carnauba wax would be OK to use if you have to - but as I said above, I tend not to unless asked.

 

[flexi]

Hi Gary, if I use laquer, I don't seal the wood first.... If I use Melamine again, I don't use a sealant.... But if I use a gunstock finish or CA then I will base coat first.
Sanding sealer and friction polish can both be used as base coats or finishes themselves but are not durable enough to be used for pens which get handled frequently with hot sweaty hands..... This has always been a hot topic of debate as we seek to find a quick and easy application that's both durable and shinny

 

[Curly]

Sanding sealer was developed for the furniture industry to seal up the pores in wood so the finish would go on evenly with a couple sprayed on coats. Doesn't soak in patches. I don't see it needed for pens especially with a dense wood like Ebony. Usually a couple thin coats of thin CA are all you need to accomplish the same before building the finish to the lustre you want. If doing a lacquer or poly finish, maybe if the wood is soft like spalted maple, you might use it.

Next thing is sanding sealer is a one coat, maybe two at most product because it is a softer material, easier to sand, than the finish coats. As a kid in my fathers furniture repair and refinishing business they only shot one coat and then only lightly sanded taking the nibs off and that was it. I sanded acres of the stuff during summer breaks. Laying on half a dozen coats is not going to do anything good for the piece you are finishing. One of those less is more things.

If doing a CA finish start with thin and if you want to move to medium to build up a deep finish otherwise stay with the thin. Whatever blows your dress up, floats your boat or makes you feel warm and fuzzy.

Save the sanding sealer for appropriate finishes on softer woods. Hard stuff like ebony just use the finish or use oil and/or waxes as suggested.

Pete

 

[Penpal]

Using meths is a great way to help with surface finishes on timber.Where I live the Parliament House used incredible amounts of Macassar Ebony and it finished smooth as Silk. I find it a difficult timber at best the grain varies so much as well. I suggest Curly has given valid info and support this.