Hello Simon
1st Post and no introduction?
Ok, in reply to your question.....
I have seen that before but didn't bother due to cost and then I spotted this review...
From the automotive side... (same thing)... think of it as a hard, relative thick layer of top-coat. As long you as you perform ritualistic (easier) maintenance on it, things will glance off it as it doesn't 'wash off' by normal use as it's high-bond to the last real top-coat. It's entirely sacrificial though, despite marketing and I think that's where it's downfall lies. Approx 2-5 yrs with care and normal use.
The automotive ones are 9H(Wolff-Wilborn scale), meaning anything harder than a 9H pencil lead is going to win over the coating. You deeply scratch it, you dent your autobody/wood, it'll probably conform a bit but that'll become the open weak spot. You leave a pH solution on it long enough, it'll still eat through.
So... you're not going to do spot repairs with this. Each of the 'wood' ones comes with maintenance spray which from the blacktail SDS is literally 'Vehicle waterless wash'. That's mostly an emulsifier that'll carry dirt and other surfactants you don't want sitting too long on it. When you eventually eat through that layer, it's a sanding job as you'd need Rubio/wood to apply Rubio. Lacquer/wood to apply lacquer. Nothing really sticks well to the ceramic coats, which is the point.
Edit: any reputable autobody shop would ask you up front what your maintenance schedule for your car is... whether you're babying it and prepared to lightly wash it by hand every week and not using a car-wash... if not, they're not going to suggest ceramic coating to you. Same thing should have applied to woodworking.
A number of people have said its very good BUT, can mark easily and that then requires a full rub down and prep to re-coat.
Never used it myself (due to cost) but its like a lot of different things, until you try it yourself your not going to know for sure
