Pen finishing

[mattkemp]

Hi I have turned a few pen now and looking at different finishes I started finishing with carnauba wax but found it lost its shine I had got some pen wax polish from turners retreat but is there anything else I could use?

 

[Buckeye]

Hi I have turned a few pen now and looking at different finishes I started finishing with carnauba wax but found it lost its shine I had got some pen wax polish from turners retreat but is there anything else I could use?

There's only one finish worth having and that is CA of course you will now get silly people saying they use something else that wears off after looking at it

Peter

 

[Jim]

I get good results using Renaissance Wax Polish Matt .. Search the forum for it, you will see some of the pens i have used it on ..

 

[Bill Mooney]

I've been using lacquer with good results & it lasts.

 

[wm460]

Simple wax dulls the shine, dont use it.

 

[silver]

You are not happy with the finish you have to start with so hence the question..

The one Peter suggests is possibly one of the best finishes and the most common used in finishing pens.

There is possibly as many different finishes as there are pen turners

Each and everyone of us will come up with a different finish or a different method of finishing pens.and guess what, they are all right.

I have used many over the years and have settled on two, friction polish and CA for wood and porous materials.

What make of friction polish..? Well whatever is cheapest.. No matter how much you pay for it it won't last much longer than the cheapest.

CA, what type? Whatever you find is easiest to put in and whatever you do to get best results. Me personally use thin CA and then go through the grades of Micro Mesh.

Lacquer.. Yep, again it all depends on what you find best, do you want speed at drying? Or best finish. .? To be honest try a you the car shop types until you get the one you get on with best. But many will come on and say use Halfords or another speciality that's never been heard of North of the Watford Gap...

What I am getting at here is that when everyone has given there "wise words" try each and everyone of them until you get one you can easily use, gives the right finish and best of all you enjoy doing what you do..

if you have learnt anything from this reply then the most important thing is that you pay attention to what I say and only use CA and friction polish.. It's my way and the only way..

Ok, who said you could use my avatar.. oops just realised its not mine..

 

[chas_41_uk]

What Eamonn says

 

[Penpal]

Well Eamonn shy as ever me too. One coat or three of medium CA never use Micro mesh or paper after CA always use Carnauba Wax Stick still on my first for twenty plus years. Always thin coats of Carnauba well polished in.

Distance to purchase in the UK everything is close as compared with over here my nearest supplier is two hundred miles away. It is a matter of what floats.

Peter.

 

[billyb_imp]

Recently its been CA for me with a quick polish with HUT Ultra at the end.

However I am going to try air brushing on a few Lacquer finishes this weekend, I tried Nitrocellulose Lacquer last night for the first time but slow drying time between coats and the fumes may well put me off that one. Great finish but not worth risking your health which you would do without some very expensive kit to keep you safe.

Will report back with more info on this over the weekend.

 

[Penpal]

With care and effort Les from Canadas treatments are immaculate.

Peter.

 

[Oke Craft]

In my experience (and with a mean commercial hat on) unless you are making the pen purely for your own satisfaction or to give as a present to a dear relative, then there are only two practical finishes.

1. Friction polish for wood (even if it does go dull in use it can soon be buffed up again)

2. Water for acrylics - with a bit of wet & dry attached.

The other finishes I've ever come across all take far too long to be cost-effective even for the hobby craft market turner, and the harder finishes - laquers, CA etc, look great in the first place but can get damaged (chipped or scratched) in use. If the pen is just an object to be looked at in a display cabinet - then fine!

Basically, I'm with Silver. Oh - except the CA bit!

 

[silver]

with a mean commercial hat on
are you a Scotsman by any chance?

1. Friction polish for wood (even if it does go dull in use it can soon be buffed up again)

2. Water for acrylics - with a bit of wet & dry attached.

Basically, I'm with Silver. Oh - except the CA bit!

I agree with the mean commercial bit.. If it's about selling and return on investment. ( be it your time or materials used) then the quickest finish is friction polish.

But what some don't realise is polishing the wood rather than putting polish on the wood..

The time spent finishing pens with CA or acrylic isn't worth while.

I have also said on many ocaisions that with The hard finishes for the end user doesn't get the feel of the wooden pen. Which is what wooden pens are all about isn't it?

 

[yorkshireman]

I stick with Shellawax cream on top of EE then a final polish with renaissance wax. CA unfortunately I can't use due to the fumes

 

[Buckeye]

I can understand not wanting to take the time to use CA if you stack em high etc or if you want to knock out pens in the fastest possible time. I have tried other finishes and none come close to CA in terms of lasting. The finish on pens that I made years ago is just as good today as when I made them.

Maybe my fingertips are desensitised but I can't feel any difference between a finish with CA and a sanding sealer finish which has been buffed so I much prefer a finish which not only highlights the wood, but keeps it looking like wood. I have seen pens made with a wax finish and the owner was proud that he hadn't needed to refurbish the finish, I don't think he realised how grubby the pen was with his sweat and body grease rubbed into it over the years.

Everyone who makes pens should try as many finishes as they can until they find one that suits them, if one finish cost more in time and/or money to apply then it is a simple equation, charge accordingly, you are the one who sets the price. If you want to sell on quality rather than bulk then again charge accordingly.

For me it is CA everytime, I guarantee the finish on my pens, I will refinish them if they wear, and may even refinish them if they were damaged, but that would depend how many pens that person has bought from me.

Peter

 

[Jim]

Everyone who makes pens should try as many finishes as they can until they find one that suits them

Fully agree with this, then it doesn't matter what other think or use ..

 

[Penpal]

Sounds like the comments at a buff and shine car show how sparkly is your car in the second or third year? Seems we all try so many so called unique finishes only to come back to cA in some form. I remember clearly the Aussie bloke who had made countless thousands of magnificent pens finished every one with CA he was so fast and efficient used top Aussie timbers and they flew out the door.

Peter.

 

[Baldy]

I thing as far as general longevity of shine ca is probably second to none but a pretty good alternative is craft coat.

This has been my every day pen for a year or so and was finished with craft coat. As you see still got a good shine and doesn't have the plasticy feel to it..

It is my finish of choice for reasons.
1. No fumes.. I have a small shed and not a lot of ventilation
2. Easier application and finish
3. Doesn't feel plasticy
4. Keeps a good finish even with daily use

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[Les ELm]

WBOM Polyurethane using the Dipping Method.
Easy, quick and very durable finish.
Doesn't get brittle over time like CA does and won't chip or crack.

Les