Problem drilling Olive blanks

[Big Al]

Hi, some advice please. I seem to have constant problems drilling Olive blanks, it creates a lot of friction and then burns. Is Olive harder than most woods or do I need to get different drill bits?

 

[Bigblackdog]

are the drill bits sharp? what speed are you drilling at?

 

[Penpal]

Yes Olive can be quite tricky and unless it is fairly new from the tree it hardens up. Cutting blanks on the big bandsaw is always exciting. Constant care in drilling is essential. All of this can be most rewarding Neil handles more of Olive than most of us Ligna? also perhaps they could add to the discussion. I was once given my choice of an abandoned 60 yrs plus grove and I was amazed at the actual weight and difficulty with the chainsaw.

Peter.

 

[Bammer]

No, Olive is one of the easiest to drill, never have an issue, never split a blank. (unless it was from a cheap source)

Love the smell of Olive in the morning.

Make sure you pull out often () and clear the bit ...

 

[21William]

Any decent twist drill is good enough to drill into steel so if it can manage that it should handle a piece of wood. Sharp drill, slow speed and regular clearing of the chips is what's needed.

 

[fortress]

Just what others have said Al, sharp bit and keep withdrawing, I love Olive.

 

[silver]

It all depends on the wood, yes olive is olive wood no matter what.

I have found differing problems drilling depending on where it's been sourced from. I am presuming that it depends on if it's been grown in climates where the slower growing and the climates dictates it's density.

That said it usually drills well but you do have to clear the drill flutes out often and make sure it's done at the right speed, to me that has been slow.

It sounds like you are not happy with what you are doing currently so if I were you I would make sure the drill bits are sharp and then look at altering the drilling speeds to get the best effect.

You don't say what method you are using to drill the blanks, pilar drill, hand drill or do you drill in the lathe?

above is some ideas to make a change and may help.. let us know if it's helped..

 

[Lons]

Never had a problem no matter how wild the grain and though olive is hard it comes nowhere near some other timbers. It can heat up if not fully dry so keep withdrawing the drill and clearing swarf.
I would say it's your drill bits and or technique.

I always drill on the lathe these days by preference but no probs when using a pillar drill either and always drill using the correct size standard (good quality) twist drill but you could drill in stages with different sizes if it helps

 

[Big Al]

Thanks for all advice. Using a hand drill in a pillar stand and don't seem to have same problem with other blanks. Will look at going slower though as sometimes I suspect I go too hard at it! And will check sharpness also.
I also love olive, great smell too, lovely finish and a nice warm wood. These blanks were bought in a bulk job lot and are Italian Olive, previously had used Israeli but it's getting far too expensive.

 

[Lons]

Thanks for all advice. Using a hand drill in a pillar stand and don't seem to have same problem with other blanks. Will look at going slower though as sometimes I suspect I go too hard at it! And will check sharpness also.
I also love olive, great smell too, lovely finish and a nice warm wood. These blanks were bought in a bulk job lot and are Italian Olive, previously had used Israeli but it's getting far too expensive.

Easy to drill on the lathe if you have a chuck Al and should be easier and more accurate than the setup you mention. plenty of advice and discussion around if you search and I think Walter posted a tutorial.
It can be a contentious subject as we all have our favourite method.

On the subject of olive though you should check out Neil Lawton, a forum member who sells some beautiful blanks. Worker in Wood – Wood Turning Courses in Yorkshire

 

[bigbob]

Drill on the Lathe about 500 RPM drill in about a inch slowly wind back the drill clear the flutes out on the drill with a brush and repeat until you are through. I find Olive quite soft wood to turn or drill compared to most of the hardwoods.

 

[Graham_C]

More great advice from forum members, love it

 

[Walter]

Almost all problems with drilling come from overheating. Drilling at too high a speed or failing to clear the flutes are the most common causes of overheating.

Drill slowly, slower than you think you need to and clear the flutes, twice as often as you think you need to.

If in doubt drill slower than that and clear the flutes more often.

Oh, and drill slowly and clear the flutes often.

 

[Dalboy]

Almost all problems with drilling come from overheating. Drilling at too high a speed or failing to clear the flutes are the most common causes of overheating.

Drill slowly, slower than you think you need to and clear the flutes, twice as often as you think you need to.

If in doubt drill slower than that and clear the flutes more often.

Oh, and drill slowly and clear the flutes often.

Is that with or without a sharp drill Walter:wink::wink::wink:

 

[Penpal]

I wish to point out I never change speed on my pillar drills. I do not have blowouts nor allow extra length to speak of with my blank preparation, the speed is medium, always works for me.

I was in Tasmania once when at a mill a large length of Tasmanian Blackwood fell off a fork lift, it rang like steel. The point is I have seen and used so much timber within species that proved to me there is no real normal.

I get hundreds of clean great blanks using DeWalt Extreme 2 drills. The toughest I find to drill is Snakewood and Ebony, one of my favourite timbers Hairy Oak can be really hard as well as some Red and Brown Mallee. Density varies tremendously, some of my stash burl is really tough and aged now. Like driving a sensitive touch is better than a panic hold.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

Is that with or without a sharp drill Walter:wink::wink::wink: