Problems with my drill setup

[simon33]

Hi, and Happy New Year to all!

I have finally got round to getting some kit for pen turning. I went for the Axminster Precision Pro lathe in the end which looks to be a nice setup. I know it is limited in terms of size but for the foreseeable future I am focusing only on pens.

One of the limitations of the Precision Pro is the collet chuck set up, which doesn't give the ability to drill on the lathe. I therefore turned to my £59 cheapo pillar drill to drill my first 3 blanks. Surely drilling a hole shouldn't be that difficult! The problems are twofold

a) the pillar only has 60mm of travel which is a pain as I had to drill half way and then stop and raise bed to finish it off, and
b) using a 7mm brad point bit and holding the blank in a quick release pen blank vice with registration grooves (which must hold it square) the hole looks a bit oval, the exit point is way off centre and the tube for a slimline seems to be a loose fit as a result.

Is the problem my technique, or the brad drill bit, or a cheap drill press that isn't accurate enough?

The bed seems to be square to the bit laterally (i.e. the adjustable bit). However, it does look very slightly off square front to back but that isn't adjustable of course.

Many thanks in advance

Simon

 

[flexi]

I use a Record press with 60mm travel, it's OK.....I use a piece of timber to raise my blank vice after my first part hole.....I did used to notice some flex in the tube on my press if I used a blunt drill or tool much force( to eager)....I stopped that now, also stiffened the tube. It might be something to check??

 

[Bammer]

May be a silly point, but make sure you are not putting the bit too far in the chuck. Make sure it's biting on the shaft and not the thread

 

[alpha1]

Get yourself a good pen blank vise mine transformed drilling on my pillar drill into a better experience all round.. Oops re read your post you already have one. Sorry.

 

[Frederick]

Hello Simon,

I am no expert and I empathise totally. I gave up using long brad point drill bits as I found them to wander quite a bit. I always try to make sure that the pen blank is perfectly square and straight which helps when in the vice; although sometimes this can not be achieved. Some well known known branded "ordinary" drill bits I have purchased recently are not as good as they should be and have been out of true (i.e bent). Clear your drill flutes frequently when drilling, this also helps keep friction heat to a minimum thus reducing the risk of warping.

My answer (and again I am no expert) is to carry on using the drill press as you can't use your lathe; make sure the blank is as square and straight as possible so the hole has a chance of staying in the centre and ensure the bit is as sharp as possible. If anyone thinks I am wrong or talking rubbish here then please let me know.

Cheers
Frederick

 

[Phil Dart]

The Axminster Precision Pro is a great little lathe by all accounts. I know that [MENTION=95]Walter[/MENTION] Hall did a reveiw of it for Woodturning Magazine a year or so ago and he was very impressed.

As Mark says, check that the drill bit is sharp. Also check your pillar drill for run out. Difficult to do that in isolation without equipment but a pretty good test would be to put a 7mm hole in a thin bit of scrap - something like hardboard or thin ply. If you have a round hole at 7mm, you'll be fine, and if not, you have a problem with the drill. Assuming though that the drill is fine, most drilling problems stem from not withdrawing the bit frequently enough to clear the swarf from the flutes of the bit. That would cause it to go off line and the hole to be elliptical as a result.

Assuming your table is square in all planes to the drill, a gentle entry, don't be in a hurry, so therefore keep your feed rate down, (ie don't force the bit in too quickly), then withdraw and clear every 10mm or so, and see how you get on.

Edit: - Ooops, sorry Frederick, our posts crossed. You obviously have faster fingers than me

 

[alpha1]

One of the issues I had when drilling on the lathe and to some extent on the pillar drill was due to the long length of the drill bits they would wander or vibrate in the tailstock causing out of round holes. I now only use short stub drills. I buy them from engineering suppliers they are more expensive but usually better quality and you only buy once I have never managed to blunt one yet. Im also tempted to have a go with milling cutters for a bit of fun.

 

[Ray7756]

Hi, and Happy New Year to all!

I have finally got round to getting some kit for pen turning. I went for the Axminster Precision Pro lathe in the end which looks to be a nice setup. I know it is limited in terms of size but for the foreseeable future I am focusing only on pens.

One of the limitations of the Precision Pro is the collet chuck set up, which doesn't give the ability to drill on the lathe. I therefore turned to my £59 cheapo pillar drill to drill my first 3 blanks. Surely drilling a hole shouldn't be that difficult! The problems are twofold

Is the problem my technique, or the brad drill bit, or a cheap drill press that isn't accurate enough?

The bed seems to be square to the bit laterally (i.e. the adjustable bit). However, it does look very slightly off square front to back but that isn't adjustable of course.

Many thanks in advance

Your problems are more than twofold,,,, you need to improve your technique you are blaming your pillar drill ,,, the bits and the device you hold it in,,,,,, after all you have paid money for this and it should result in perfect drill holes,,,,,, be real improve your set up skills, take your time with drilling dont try to force things, it will work out "iff you are willing to improve YOUR skills" its not magic its learning skills

Cheers
Ray

 

[Penpal]

If you use a sheet of ply you can adjust your rest on the press. All directions are vital. When I bought my Taiwanese Drill press I stripped it and fitted new bearings,made sure the drill chuck was sound,made the drill come down at right angles to rest.

I spent a day making everything ship shape. Used it for nearly thirty years,drilled thousands,gave it to a mens shed who use it non stop for everything.The rest of the needs are in the answers above.

Peter.

Peter.

 

[pittswood]

Hi Simon,
ditch the brad point drills. The one side has only to be a few thous out, or the lips be angled and by the time you have reached the bottom of your hole one could be out by five times that! Oval holes means one thing only - off ground lip or centre. I always use sharp/ground jobber drills, good made shorter/standard type drills (Domer, Bosch etc;). Never had one run out on me. As was said before, buy once good, buy good first. I have an old "car boot" bench drill, with only 50mm movement, may be an old Draper. It drills perfect every time. The main drill shaft has no side or lift movement, it has a twist movement, but this has no effect on the drilling of holes. The table has no bend in it when drilling and I only use a plain vise on my table.
Kelvin

 

[DaveP]

Surely drilling a hole shouldn't be that difficult!

It can be.... depending on how much accuracy is required

But anyway

1. Check the level of the bed by using a bent piece of wire (maybe from a coat hanger) Z shape, put one end in the chuck and a sheet of paper on the bed, lower the quill and as you rotate the chuck by hand you will be able to see if the bed is square (easier than using a square)

2. If your chuck / quill / bearings have a bit of slop (for want of a better word) then always start with a center drill and a decent conventional tip drill bit, and as said above.... if your quill travel is not enough, then after going as far as you can, just put a block under the vice for drilling deeper (providing the drill bit it self is long enough)

3, Expanding / foaming glue (like gorilla) can make bigger holes fit the tube

 

[Dibbs]

Hi, and Happy New Year to all!

I have finally got round to getting some kit for pen turning. I went for the Axminster Precision Pro lathe in the end which looks to be a nice setup. I know it is limited in terms of size but for the foreseeable future I am focusing only on pens.

One of the limitations of the Precision Pro is the collet chuck set up, which doesn't give the ability to drill on the lathe. I therefore turned to my £59 cheapo pillar drill to drill my first 3 blanks. Surely drilling a hole shouldn't be that difficult! The problems are twofold

a) the pillar only has 60mm of travel which is a pain as I had to drill half way and then stop and raise bed to finish it off, and
b) using a 7mm brad point bit and holding the blank in a quick release pen blank vice with registration grooves (which must hold it square) the hole looks a bit oval, the exit point is way off centre and the tube for a slimline seems to be a loose fit as a result.

Is the problem my technique, or the brad drill bit, or a cheap drill press that isn't accurate enough?

The bed seems to be square to the bit laterally (i.e. the adjustable bit). However, it does look very slightly off square front to back but that isn't adjustable of course.

Many thanks in advance

Simon

Couldn't you turn one end of the blank to round between centres so that it will fit in a collet? Then you could drill it on the lathe.

 

[Dalboy]

Something that has not been mentioned is that some woods will make the drill bit flex ever so slightly as it will want to follow the softer grain so slow drilling and clear the swarf often this also applies to acrylics keep the swarf clear.
I mainly drill on a drill press and have also used short stubb drills that engineers use as it gives a great start for the twist drill.

As many have stated sharp drill bit and take you time.

 

[Les ELm]

I drill all my blanks on the lathe using Jobber Length HSS Brad Point bits designed specifically
for drill pen blanks.

Les

 

[Penpal]

My choices for pens for many years my preference and go to. DeWalt, Type2, Drill Point Drills.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

Plus 1 for DeWalt, Type2 drill bits.

 

[simon33]

Thank you to everyone for the multitude of tips and advice. I think I probably have a combination of problems - drill press bed being a bit out, flex or wandering with the brad point bit etc. I'll be out in the garage this weekend taking on board all the advice and will report back.

Having spent the last 30 years in a desk job, I thought it was time I learned a proper craft in my spare time. It's very much one baby step at a time but I'll get there :-)

Thanks again.