Question re brass inserts in pen blanks

[Anthraquinone]

I have glued a piece of 2mm brass sheet set at about 30 degrees in a wood blank. I am sure this has been done before but am wondering what will happen when I drill the central hole and the bit hits the sloping metal sheet. I am hoping that the wood will support the bit and stop it moving sideways. I will drill the blank on a lathe as normal with it set well into the jaws of a pin chuck for added support.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

AQ

 

[rayf6604]

I've done this once before but with 0.5mm and I went as slow as I could and it was fine. The glue then gave way while turning

 

[Jim]

I have done this on numerous occasions using 3mm plastic with a very good success rate, also done the same when segmenting using both plastic and tin sheeting up to 2mm thick ..

 

[silver]

It should be ok, but be aware of what Ray has said, heat build-up will destroy your blank and it will fall apart.

Been there done that..

When turning it you will also have to be carefull as the will generate heat and it wil do the same..

 

[Neil]

Drill small first and hopefully the blank will hold up, short drill bit and the best of luck

 

[Buckeye]

When I use brass I have drilled slowly and sometimes the glue holds and sometimes not. Now when I drill brass I measure on the bit the depth of where the bit will hit the brass and drill up to the mark and stop the lathe, then turn it by hand and continue drilling until the bit has gone through the brass then turn the lathe back on to finish the hole. I always use several bits to get to the finished diameter.

Peter

 

[Woody]

I have done quite a few pens with metal inserts some hold together when drilling some dont but how long dose it take to glue them up again the last few I did I drilled a 6mm hole in the metal before gluing and they behaved them selves but of course you cant do this with say a Celtic cross slow step drilling is the order of the day

 

[Anthraquinone]

Well the first try did not work the epoxy glue joint between the wood and the brass failed once I got to the larger drill bits. I will try again

Thanks for al the advice

AQ

 

[Dalboy]

Something worth noting is that some brass which is brought ie from places like model shops will need to be cleaned first and given a light sanding before glueing. Most people will already know this but for a first timer it can be a downfall and lead to joint failure.
Hope I am not trying to teach you how to suck eggs, can't imagine why anyone would want to suck an egg just break it and cook it is what I say

 

[Winemaker]

Never done that but reading this, would not worth drilling a smaller hole first in copper sheet, then glue it in place then drilling down through the wood the drill should drill through the smaller hole

 

[turnaround360]

Use high temp glue build a support round the blank glued also you can turn it away later drill the hole slowly glue in the tube
turn it down i have done this and it worked for me.

 

[wm460]

Drill a little bit then squirt some water in it then drill bit more etc etc.

 

[Jim]

Epoxy versus CA? Is there a difference where one suits drilling better than the other. I have only ever used CA so i can't answer this.

 

[wm460]

CA gives out long time before epoxy.

 

[Grump]

CA gives out long time before epoxy.

Then you're using the wrong ca or sticking the wrong stuff with it.

AQ, ain't you drilled this bloody hole yet ?

2mm is far to thick to expect it to drill at an angle inside of wood.
All that will happen is the drill bit slides off the metal into the wood enlarging your hole until either drill snaps or wood collapses.
Think about stresses and strains then speak to an engineer.
If you must persist with this idea then drill before assembly or use thinner metal 0.2mm would be more like it for drilling in wood and build up layers.

 

[Twister]

probably want a ball end mill to get you thru that thickness at that angle

just to get a start ..not to go right thru
it is only soft so i guess just a 2 flute end mill would do ..just to get a flat for a regular bit
Steve

 

[Terry]

When you drill sheet metal of any kind the drill has a tendency to "snatch" as it passes through the hole even if you use pilot drills first or not and all this does is creates stresses on your glued joints.
I have found the best method although messy is to drill the blank first and then cut at the required angle. Clamp the metal to a piece of wood on a drill press and drill to get a clean hole and then deburr. It will be necessary to drill at an angle if the segmenting at an angle so that the tube can pass through cleanly.
The final stage is to epoxy the blank and metal and bring together and then epoxy the tube and slide it through the holes as there is time to allow movement of all parts. Once the tube is in place clamp up and wait to dry.
It is messy but it works !!!!