Andrew hall
Registered
What are people’s thoughts on this sharpening system and is there any deals available.
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Robert sorby pro edge
- Thread starter Andrew hall
- Start date
I love mine. Easy to use and doesn’t take up a lot of space which was a consideration for me. The jig for sharpening wood turning gouges works really well but you can also go “freestyle” too if you prefer.
I sometimes use mine for sharpening knives and it works ok but you can’t always get to the very end of the blade near the handle as the handle itself can get in the way so it’s a little awkward. There is a jig available for that too though, at extra cost.
I do think it’s a little overpriced for what it is so maybe look for a pre-loved version. If I was buying again then that’s what I would do, but I’ve no complaints and would recommend.
Cheers
Ash
I sometimes use mine for sharpening knives and it works ok but you can’t always get to the very end of the blade near the handle as the handle itself can get in the way so it’s a little awkward. There is a jig available for that too though, at extra cost.
I do think it’s a little overpriced for what it is so maybe look for a pre-loved version. If I was buying again then that’s what I would do, but I’ve no complaints and would recommend.
Cheers
Ash
Much depends on all the things you’d like to sharpen. Probably the best system if you just want to sharpen wood turning tools. Not so great for other stuff. I’ve used and used to recommend them to wood turners but I actually bought the Axminster version instead. I bought it when it was on special offer (£399) so a similar price to the Sorby at the time. Not so cheap now though.
www.axminstertools.com
It’s a good machine. Variable speed and forward and reverse are handy. It can also be used with all the jigs available for wet grinders like the Tormek as it has a movable 12mm support rod. The Sorby uses a fixed 1/2” rod.
The big advantage to belt grinders is the ability to very quickly switch from say a 60g belt for reshaping tools right up to an 800g belt for honing if required for things like carving tools.
As suggested these do come up second hand from time to time but watch out for scammers. There have been a few warnings on social media about Pro Edge sales. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Axminster Professional Ultimate Edge V/Speed Sharpening System - 230V
Woodwork without a keen edge simply ends up in tears. The Axminster Professional AP50UE Ultimate Edge offers a controlled, repeatable and effective method for sharpening, linishing or polishing on all your edge tools. No one takes up sharpening as a...
www.axminstertools.com
It’s a good machine. Variable speed and forward and reverse are handy. It can also be used with all the jigs available for wet grinders like the Tormek as it has a movable 12mm support rod. The Sorby uses a fixed 1/2” rod.
The big advantage to belt grinders is the ability to very quickly switch from say a 60g belt for reshaping tools right up to an 800g belt for honing if required for things like carving tools.
As suggested these do come up second hand from time to time but watch out for scammers. There have been a few warnings on social media about Pro Edge sales. Good luck with whatever you decide.
pittswood
Fellow
Its the ProEdge for me every time. Used grinding stones before, good, but I like the flat surface left after the grind. I can get perfect edges on any tool, flat, round, square, oval even curved, internally and externally. As an old engineer we had to sharpen everything by hand on any grinding stone, one of the tests one had to pass in old school engineering.
So, if a tool is out there and to make things easer, use it. And always buy from reputable sellers.
Kelvin
So, if a tool is out there and to make things easer, use it. And always buy from reputable sellers.
Kelvin
Spoiler Alert - I used to work for Robert Sorby (and still help out at shows and events) but the info here is very neutral...They have changed how they sell the system last year...as the Pro Edge can be used for so many different tasks so instead of trying to sell you a "one bundle fits all" solution you now buy in effect a "naked" Pro Edge (the basic machine itself) and then add (if you wish) one of three jigs / accessory kits...one aimed squarely at woodturners (the one most of us on here would probably use) a Woodworker kit- aimed at amongst other things plane and chisel blades rather than woodturning tools and a slightly more specialist Knife maker kit.
Just ensure when shopping if any price you see is machine only, or the machine and the appropriate"kit" to fit your needs.
I'm thoroughly biased - (I don't own one personally yet, (although this is due to change soon)) but compared to any other system I have used, which includes Tormek, dry grinders and other sharpening systems, I think this is the bees knees...yup, not cheap (but the best quality stuff never is..) and think...it's an investment in every single tool you've bought to date and in anything you buy in the future!
Tony Kwasniak
Curly
Graduate Member
Welcome to the forum Andrew.
I don't have a belt grinding system but if I were I would be considering a 50x2000/2x72 that are popular with the knife making people. There are a few kits made in Central Europe for around £500 without a motor that you'll have to weld or bolt together and they go up from there. The upside to them is the versatility and variety of abrasive belts available which range from a 1/4 to the same costs as the Pro Edge belts. The belts being longer last longer too. You would need to get tool holding jigs adapted to fit or make your own. The downside is they are bigger, cost more for a good one. If you don't have the skills or desire to complete a kit then they wouldn't be for you. If are interested there are knife making forums that should have threads about them and there are groups on Facebook.
Pete
I don't have a belt grinding system but if I were I would be considering a 50x2000/2x72 that are popular with the knife making people. There are a few kits made in Central Europe for around £500 without a motor that you'll have to weld or bolt together and they go up from there. The upside to them is the versatility and variety of abrasive belts available which range from a 1/4 to the same costs as the Pro Edge belts. The belts being longer last longer too. You would need to get tool holding jigs adapted to fit or make your own. The downside is they are bigger, cost more for a good one. If you don't have the skills or desire to complete a kit then they wouldn't be for you. If are interested there are knife making forums that should have threads about them and there are groups on Facebook.
Pete
alan morrison
Fellow
Welcome Andrew.
Just buy one, it’ll be the best tool in your workshop!
Like others, I have tried the rest and now (I feel) have the best. I loved my Tormek but size and fear of cracking a wheel (frost in my workshop if not heated) worried me....the Sorby does everything my Tormek did (except keep the cutting edge cold) with the addition of quick changing grit size....
All roads lead to Pro-edge in the end. You might as well go there first as soon as last in my opinion
Ballistol
Full Member
Bit of help required chaps,
Having amassed a few blunt wood turning tools I decided to get one of these complete with jig kit.
I tried it out for the first time today, and thought it would start with an old Stanley wood chisel. I was initially very pleased as it reprofiled the chisel in short order and it looked very neat.
However, when I looked at the cutting edge, it was blunt, with the very tip square to the base about 0.5mm wide. I repeated the exercise with another chisel and whilst it superficially looked good, it too had a 0.5mm flat on the cutting edge.
I tried using more/less pressure, but I couldn’t reduce the effect, and seem to have purchased a chisel blunter rather than a sharpener
The unit itself came with only 120g belts, do I need a finer grit to get a sharper edge or am I doing something stupid?
Having amassed a few blunt wood turning tools I decided to get one of these complete with jig kit.
I tried it out for the first time today, and thought it would start with an old Stanley wood chisel. I was initially very pleased as it reprofiled the chisel in short order and it looked very neat.
However, when I looked at the cutting edge, it was blunt, with the very tip square to the base about 0.5mm wide. I repeated the exercise with another chisel and whilst it superficially looked good, it too had a 0.5mm flat on the cutting edge.
I tried using more/less pressure, but I couldn’t reduce the effect, and seem to have purchased a chisel blunter rather than a sharpener
The unit itself came with only 120g belts, do I need a finer grit to get a sharper edge or am I doing something stupid?
Curious. It sounds like you’re just not grinding it enough? Can you show us some pictures.
You could do with some more belts anyway though. 60/80g for reshaping and 240g for resharpening. I also have 800g if I want a polished edge.
You could do with some more belts anyway though. 60/80g for reshaping and 240g for resharpening. I also have 800g if I want a polished edge.
Rich Aldrich
Full Member
I use the wolverine system for sharpening. CBN wheels. Raptor setup tools. I have a roborest platform.
Ballistol
Full Member
Tried again today but struggled to get any useful pictures. Used more force and it definitely improved though, not as sharp as I would like, but useable.I’ll order higher grit belts and see if I can improve it thanks.
I’ve used it twice now, and on both occasions, when I switch it on nothing moves and the motor makes a buzzing sound. The belt is stuck solid until I manually rotate it. Once it is free, the motor works as normal. Something appears to be seizing up after only a few days, anyone experienced this problem?
Have you tried running it without a belt on, maybe the tracking is a bit off and causing an issue?
Edit: Sometimes cold weather can be an issue with bearings etc. Try leaving it indoors overnight and then see if it starts straight away?
Edit: Sometimes cold weather can be an issue with bearings etc. Try leaving it indoors overnight and then see if it starts straight away?
Lons
Fellow
Hi Gary
The first thing I'd check on yours is that the belt is tensioned correctly. It's easily adjusted and could potentially struggle to start if it's too tight. Left like that it could overload and burn out the motor. If the tension is ok the make sure nothing is jamming the belt or rollers, the machine should be occasionally oiled and cleaned in any case just like any other.
You can get a sharp edge quite easily with a 120g belt. Same as I use but also 240g and even though I have higher grits I rarely use them unless I want a polished edge. Lower grits as advised are useful for re profiling a tool and make sure you have a tub of water and cloth handy for cooling.
I can't understand why you can't get an edge unless you just aren't grinding far enough and you certainly should have no need to apply excess pressure which will cause the tool to overheat and overwork the motor.
I'm just north of Morpeth and quite happy to have a look at your pro edge or show you how I use mine. If you want to take me up on that just send me a pm.
Bob
Message to the OP
I've had the lot. including a Tormek and for turning tools it's the only machine I now use. I also use it for many other things and as far as I'm concerned it's worth the money even though I think it and the Axminster clones are overpriced. I don't sharpen my bench chisels on it though prefering to use diamond plates.
The first thing I'd check on yours is that the belt is tensioned correctly. It's easily adjusted and could potentially struggle to start if it's too tight. Left like that it could overload and burn out the motor. If the tension is ok the make sure nothing is jamming the belt or rollers, the machine should be occasionally oiled and cleaned in any case just like any other.
You can get a sharp edge quite easily with a 120g belt. Same as I use but also 240g and even though I have higher grits I rarely use them unless I want a polished edge. Lower grits as advised are useful for re profiling a tool and make sure you have a tub of water and cloth handy for cooling.
I can't understand why you can't get an edge unless you just aren't grinding far enough and you certainly should have no need to apply excess pressure which will cause the tool to overheat and overwork the motor.
I'm just north of Morpeth and quite happy to have a look at your pro edge or show you how I use mine. If you want to take me up on that just send me a pm.
Bob
Message to the OP
I've had the lot. including a Tormek and for turning tools it's the only machine I now use. I also use it for many other things and as far as I'm concerned it's worth the money even though I think it and the Axminster clones are overpriced. I don't sharpen my bench chisels on it though prefering to use diamond plates.
Nicholas Andrews
Full Member
I've had my Sorby system for some 15 years and happily endorse the favourable comments from other members. Belts last reasonably well but I can't yet justify the cost of the diamond one. I think it is now possible to buy generic belts rather than Sorby named ones. Has anyone experience of these please?
I’ve used a couple of different makes, they’ve all worked fine. I prefer Ceramic ones, they seem to last longer. I’ve not tried Trizact or Diamond though. The Axminster and Sorby belts are interchangeable even though there’s a 5mm difference in length.
The cheapest I’ve seen so far is Abtec, but there is a minimum order.
www.abtec4abrasives.com
The cheapest I’ve seen so far is Abtec, but there is a minimum order.
50 x 785 mm Ceramic Abrasive Sanding Belts
50 x 785mm Ceramic abrasive resin bonded sanding belts provide a tough durable product for sanding operations on wood and metals. Fits Axminster Ultimate Edge machine