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Sanding sealer
- Thread starter glenpen
- Start date
Welcome to the forum Glen....I use cellulose too. 
Look forward to your intro,.
But that's just because I prefer it and brought a load cheap a few years ago and being tight it works for me..
Look forward to your intro,.
But that's just because I prefer it and brought a load cheap a few years ago and being tight it works for me..
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2013
- Posts
- 9,505
- First Name
- Terry
Welcome aboard Glen. I use acrylic sanding sealer in the aerosol form. To be honest I don't think it really matters as to whick you use !!!!
chas_41_uk
Registered
I use cellulose as well
mattyts
Registered
Cellulose here too,thinned down and in liquid form.
mattyts
Registered
Thinners
Cellulose thinners, roughly half and half , it penetrates a little more , dries a little slower but lasts a lot longer
Jim
Grand Master
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
- Posts
- 15,617
Welcome to the forums Glen ..
I do exactly what Matty does ..
But i don't use it on every pen, i have other stuff i use such as BLO, and the majority of times i go straight in with friction polish ..
Goulss
Registered
I have always used Cellulose roughly 50:50 mix, I was told years ago why it was the best, but the old grey cells won't bring the reason to mind at the moment
billyb_imp
Registered
Welcome to the forum Glen
I use the spray Acrylic Sanding Sealer (from Chestnut) convenient but a bit wasteful with the oversparay
I use the spray Acrylic Sanding Sealer (from Chestnut) convenient but a bit wasteful with the oversparay
I have always used Cellulose roughly 50:50 mix, I was told years ago why it was the best, but the old grey cells won't bring the reason to mind at the moment
Now there is another two reasons to be tight and save some money..:wink:
I will try that next time I get in the cave..
Welcome to the forums Glen.
I dunno if it is still the case with all the modern materials that are available but both cellulose and shellac are old tried and tested methods.
To say one is better than the other is wrong, they both have their applications and benefits. It used to be a rule that cellulose could not be applied on top of shellac or oils based paints but could be vice versa.
Thin cellulose 50/50 with cellulose thinners to make a sealant and increase the thinners as coats are applied to built a hard wearing shine allowing time to dry between coats and overnight before sanding.
Benefit, if all goes wrong or a fly settles and sticks it can be removed and reactivated with more thinners.
This method has been used on cars for many a long year and we have adopted it in our woodworking.
Shellac thinned with methylated spirits and applied with the same method has the same benefits both giving a different finish with shellac used traditionally on wood and mainly in the furniture industry.
Drawback of shellac is it chips easily and doesn't like to much moisture, hence indoor use in the main.
For our purposes either, in half and half proportions make excellent sealers and can be safely over coated and sanded after no more than a few minutes of application.
Experiment yourself and see which you prefer, any good decorating supplier will have different grades of shellac, maybe in dry flake but definitely in button polish and French polish grades.
Go to a motor factors or paint supplier for your cellulose and thinners.
That is my understanding in laymen's terms hope it helps.
Mind you I could be wrong and have been before, I do know the finishing industry has come a long way since I was involved in it, they still had lead in paints when I was doing it.
I dunno if it is still the case with all the modern materials that are available but both cellulose and shellac are old tried and tested methods.
To say one is better than the other is wrong, they both have their applications and benefits. It used to be a rule that cellulose could not be applied on top of shellac or oils based paints but could be vice versa.
Thin cellulose 50/50 with cellulose thinners to make a sealant and increase the thinners as coats are applied to built a hard wearing shine allowing time to dry between coats and overnight before sanding.
Benefit, if all goes wrong or a fly settles and sticks it can be removed and reactivated with more thinners.
This method has been used on cars for many a long year and we have adopted it in our woodworking.
Shellac thinned with methylated spirits and applied with the same method has the same benefits both giving a different finish with shellac used traditionally on wood and mainly in the furniture industry.
Drawback of shellac is it chips easily and doesn't like to much moisture, hence indoor use in the main.
For our purposes either, in half and half proportions make excellent sealers and can be safely over coated and sanded after no more than a few minutes of application.
Experiment yourself and see which you prefer, any good decorating supplier will have different grades of shellac, maybe in dry flake but definitely in button polish and French polish grades.
Go to a motor factors or paint supplier for your cellulose and thinners.
That is my understanding in laymen's terms hope it helps.
Mind you I could be wrong and have been before, I do know the finishing industry has come a long way since I was involved in it, they still had lead in paints when I was doing it.
So far, I've only used cellulose without thinning, will try thinning now I know.
Welcome to our forum, by the way, Glen.
Welcome to our forum, by the way, Glen.
Neil
Fellow
Eee cream applied with the grain, power off and polished off to a semi gloss before friction polish. Éee cream not good with light woods such as psalter beech, box, Paul Amarillo, box, etc nor softer woods like walnut where I would recommend acrylic aerosol sanding sealer -seems to set quicker and harder but I might just be deluded.