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Sanding sealer

mattyts

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I'm nearing the bottom of the can of my Chesnuts cellulose sanding sealer and I'm planning to buy some more...

What do you guys use? thought of buying Chesnut again but there might be something better,I don't mind buying in 500ml or 1liter,nothing more though :thumbs:
 

Neil

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Matt,

You say Can but then say the 500ml or 1 litre which would indicate the liquid as opposed to the can? Have I read that right? Perhaps not?

I tend to use the spray on pens, simply because the sealer has two primary purposes, as a grain filler and as a sealer to prevent further liquids or solids from being absorbed. The filler element is best achieved by the fluid as the grain filler is the solids held in suspension in the sanding sealer. Generally with pens we are able to get a smooth enough finish not to need the grain filler element and thats why I use the aerosol. I believe that the aerosol preserves the colour of the wood better, for example a zebrano pen with rustins sanding sealer looks pretty naff compared to the aerosol.
 

mattyts

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Matt,

You say Can but then say the 500ml or 1 litre which would indicate the liquid as opposed to the can? Have I read that right? Perhaps not?

I tend to use the spray on pens, simply because the sealer has two primary purposes, as a grain filler and as a sealer to prevent further liquids or solids from being absorbed. The filler element is best achieved by the fluid as the grain filler is the solids held in suspension in the sanding sealer. Generally with pens we are able to get a smooth enough finish not to need the grain filler element and thats why I use the aerosol. I believe that the aerosol preserves the colour of the wood better, for example a zebrano pen with rustins sanding sealer looks pretty naff compared to the aerosol.

I haven't looked into the aerosol type Neil but will certainly look into it.

I have found using sealer on woods like spalted beech and zebrano,as you mention give it a yellow tint,can this be avoided using the aerosol form?
 

Neil

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Now another question, Acrylic and Cellulose,what are the advantages and disadvantages of both?

Not too certain of this one, Think Acrylic dries quicker, but you shouldn't use mellamine lacquer on top of one of the two as it reacts but cant remember which it is, but I don't use Melamine lacquer anyway! I use Acrylic in preference, but only because I always have!
 

mattyts

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Not too certain of this one, Think Acrylic dries quicker, but you shouldn't use mellamine lacquer on top of one of the two as it reacts but cant remember which it is, but I don't use Melamine lacquer anyway! I use Acrylic in preference, but only because I always have!

Can I have a link to what you use Neil? Also,is it Friction polish friendly?
 

TK woodman

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I use shellac sanding sealer and paste wax on most every thing i turn which gives an extremely deep gloss finish.
 

Jim

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Chestnut is the one that i have always used Matty, only because it was the first thing i was introduced to. So i can't comment on any other my friend.
 

Neil

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Can I have a link to what you use Neil? Also,is it Friction polish friendly?

Matt,

If I'm finishing with CA I dont bother using a sealer. If I have a wood such as Zebrano, Spalted Beech, English Walnut, or any other softer or lighter wood, then I use Acrylic Sanding Sealer: Chestnut Finishing Products (Dan - why dont you stock this??)

If I intend to use friction polish with any other wood, then I use EEE Cream as a cleaner and sealer (EEE Ultrashine abrasive polish and surface preparation, 250 ml ) Shellawax. On top of this I put Shellawax Friction polish (Shellawax (liquid) friction polish for spindle work, 250 ml.)

I am sure there are other ways to apply this but the way I get my results is to sand with the grain, clean with a spin and a light touch with a yellow nyweb and then put the EEE on with the grain (a really small amount) and polish it off with the lathe stationery so you clean out the grain, it is both a cleaner and a sealer. On top of that I then put the shellawax, but put it on with the lathe spinning and put a couple of drips onto the towel behind the mandrel (I polish behind the lathe with the tool rest in place). This way you can feed the polish onto the workpiece very slowly, and get hundreds of very fine coats on. Seems to work alot better than coating the stuff liberally and then polishing it off.
 

Buckeye

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Matt,

If I'm finishing with CA I dont bother using a sealer. If I have a wood such as Zebrano, Spalted Beech, English Walnut, or any other softer or lighter wood, then I use Acrylic Sanding Sealer: Chestnut Finishing Products (Dan - why dont you stock this??)

It's on his site.

Peter
 


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