Schmidt fountain pen nib Tap

[ZuluTiming]

I did not want to hijack Phil's thread about the Bock fountain pen nibs (Link), and I wanted to show the Schmidt tap (bottoming/finishing) for their nibs and the taper which stops the threading past a point. (See photo)

As far as I am aware they do not sell the first and second tap for this particular application. I could be wrong.

 

[bellringer]

We're did you get this taps from?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[EStreet]

You can easily convert any tap style (1st, 2nd or 3rd) (taper, plug or bottom) and make it into any of the other style needed. All you have to do is grind it. An angle grinder works wonders for this while it's on the wood lathe.

The 3rd tap, i.e. bottom tap can be used just the same however it is the most aggressive of all the styles and cuts the most materials and also the most likely to cause problems with the material as for cracking, shattering and the like.

 

[Penpal]

With the tap held in a collet chuck the tap is at your mercy ZT no biggie. I do commend you for the explicit cutaway. I made a Dremel holder for my Hercus that allows full movements on the tool rest allowing safe grinding, a die grinder mounted this way on your wood or metal lathe a piece of cake. I designed mine to use as a cut off saw with the Dremel Black disks but other cutters would eat that for breakfast I will seek pics to illustrate.

Peter.

 

[silver]

That tap is supplied specifically from schmidt for their feeds to ensure that manufacture operation is correct t every time.

I believe what Phil is doing is having the taps manufactured to suit thread and pitch only.

You can easily convert any tap style (1st, 2nd or 3rd) (taper, plug or bottom) and make it into any of the other style needed. All you have to do is grind it. An angle grinder works wonders for this while it's on the wood lathe.

Not the most accurate way of precision engineering tho Ed.:nonono:

The 3rd tap, i.e. bottom tap can be used just the same however it is the most aggressive of all the styles and cuts the most materials and also the most likely to cause problems with the material as for cracking, shattering and the like.

The 3rd tap is not aggressive, it's not designed to do what a first tap is designed to do. And that is to create the thread slowly and progressively.

but agree if you use the bottoming tap as the main tap you are at risk of break out, cracking and the like. . but it can be done with a bottoming tap in one go. But it's not for the faint hearted in my opinion.

I agree with what ZT said, that is all they supply, but schmidt use ebonite for their nib feeds, which I it's self is a much safer material to tap and doesn't suffer with the break out as it's got a little flex and not a ridged or brittel material. Correct me if I'm wrong..

 

[Phil Dart]

I see what you're saying Zulu - Thanks for showing. It seems to me that life is full of compromises. It would be easy to incorporate a stop on a bottoming tap, or any other tap, but you are talking about a length of thread of less than 3mm. People who are happy to use a bottoming tap alone would end up with a nice neatly ended thread - those who prefer to use a tap lower down the order would need to work further in to the hole because of the taper. There doesn't seem to be one easy solution to this, but one thing is for certain - you can't please all the people all the time.

Hmmm. I have lots to think about

 

[Grump]

Here we go again init? Grown men or bloody kids are we?
Go back to school and get some sense drummed into you.

Mess with taps you ask for trouble, precision tools are precision made and that don't done with a bloody dremmel or angle grinder on a wood lathe izit?

Do you want a precision instrument or a toy?

So don't mess with how the tool is constructed unless you are fully prepared to bugger it up and buy another tool to leave alone.
If the manufacturer only sells one type then you should only need to use one type, simples init?

Why does the thread have to stop anywhere look at pic above and think about what your needlessly discussing????
If the stop is incorporated in the nib section it don't matter not one jot if the thread goes too far it will stop where it stops init?

 

[Jim]

Here we go again init? Grown men or bloody kids are we?
Go back to school and get some sense drummed into you.

Brian, it is a debate in a forum, people learn from questions asked or pictures shown when searching the internet, please keep personal feelings to yourself ..

 

[Phil Dart]

Why does the thread have to stop anywhere?
If the stop is incorporated in the nib section it don't matter not one jot if the thread goes too far it will stop where it stops init?

You are absolutely right Brian. It does not need to stop anywhere. It is a through hole and the nib housing will prevent itself from screwing in too far because of the lip at the end. But, I can see why stopping the thread might look neater, and Zulu was simply showing how Schmidt do it that's all.

 

[wm460]

very interesting Zulu.

 

[bellringer]

Starting taps are ment for hard materials like stainless were thread are difficult to start but in that size it not a problem

 

[Grump]

You are absolutely right Brian. It does not need to stop anywhere. It is a through hole and the nib housing will prevent itself from screwing in too far because of the lip at the end. But, I can see why stopping the thread might look neater, and Zulu was simply showing how Schmidt do it that's all.

Sorry dad, it been so quiet in here I waned to wind it up a bit, while people have a go at me they posting init?

 

[ZuluTiming]

We're did you get this taps from?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've got it from HERE.

 

[ZuluTiming]

I wanted to show the tap that is used for pens only, from a respectable company, just to support my original question in Phil's thread about the first tap on Bock, which is sought after option. The tapered part is intentional by the manufacturer so the pen turner would know when to stop threading. Once you reach the maximum depth, just put the nib in. You will not need to test it every few millimetres. Of course you could go all the way as it is a through hole, but it is not very pretty on the other side where the cartridge/filler/converter goes. Whoever made a kitless pen should know.

As I understand it (threading) the better option would be the second or third for section on fountain pen materials (plastic, ebonite, non-ferrous metals). Of course the first should work.

 

[EStreet]

The first tap is the least aggressive and the life of the tap is longer. The third tap is most aggressive and wears out faster.

 

[Phil Dart]

Too late gang - the deal is struck. News to follow, suffice to say I have just seen the price that Schmidt charges. Bloody hell, they won't be THAT much, and unless theirs are made by TapCo, theirs probably aren't as good either.

 

[InkyFingers]

May be a bit late but, I use the same tap as the No5 Jowo with the No5 Schmidt nib. I haven't tried the No6's though. I got a drawing of the nib showing the thread dimensions.

Cheers

Andy

Oh, I go the taps for No5 and No6 Jowo from the states.