Scratch (ish) pens

[hawkeyefxr]

I have downloaded the instructions from the Tutorials section for making Firearms pens. I have laid out the parts and it appears the lower section ie. the bullet and the case will be shorter that the 7mm tube. This means the 7mm tube will be sticking out the end of the bullet case which in turn will stop the top section pushing fully home. I am not using a centre band.
The only way i see to get around this is to shorten the top tube leaving the acrylic with about short of the brass tube, effectively one end of the top section will be counter bored at one end. Is this right or am i seeing things wrong.

Also is there a way to make a rollerball pen out of a bullet and case.

 

[Ray7756]

Just re read the tutorial on this and my understanding is that the lower tube ( in bulet) is trimmed to length at the end of bullet casing then secured, i am then assuming the top casing is cut to suit refill and pen top if short may require custom tube???
But as i am a complete novice I hope someone with experience will be along soon to give you qualified advice
Watching this one with interest
Cheers
Ray

 

[hawkeyefxr]

I have since drilled the bullets and slipped the pen refill with the mechanism in place, laid the shell case along side and it appears the tube is 3 or 4 mm longer. As you say a modified top section maybe required, Will wait till i get the shell case drilled and see if it is any better. Either way it looks good.

 

[Ray7756]

If its only a couple of mm look at the seating depth of bullet you will have a little adjustment there or remove a bit more from the back of the bullet
Cheers
Ray

 

[Phil Dart]

The overall length of the lower barrel is critical.The distance from the tip of the nib to the open end of the mechanism, (assuming you are using 7mm mechs) will dictate how far the refill sticks out when it's extended. If you need to trim the lower tube by a couple of millimeters, there's nothing to stop you from doing that as long as you compensate by not pressing in the mech as far as you might have done otherwise.

 

[woodhacker]

It all depends on the bullet casing you are using, I find that with the 303 the mechanism has to be inserted further than normal to get the refill to fit properly.
You can always make your top piece slightly longer than normal (just a thought)

 

[Lons]

Bottom tube needs to be trimmed whether 303 or 308 shells in my experience, hasn't caused me any problems and I've made quite a number now. I trim the nib end which also needs a spacer ring to centralise unless you're using a real bullet or nib component from one of the bullet kits. Reason I do that is so that the tube at mechanism end is perfect. I then just insert the mechanism to suit the refill, no probs.

I've never found a need to alter the length of the upper tube so no probs if using 2 shells but a bit more work to accommodate the clip if using a cut shell cap for the top as you need to no notch that for the clip, turn off about 7 to 8 mm off the blank to leave the tube exposed then glue on a spacer ring as you assemble and glue up.

Nothing difficult just a bit off a faff.

 

[flexi]

I have done hundreds with very little issues...as above the .303 cases are longer than the .308 and i just sink the mech a bit further....the .308s not so deep.....i have done AK rounds and now .223 also shorter refils....

 

[flexi]

Just a few

 

[Ray7756]

Lovely pens,,,,,, I have the bullets and cases, just dont have the lathe,,,,,or skill level,,,, Yet

Cheers
Ray

 

[Penpal]

View attachment 34120
Just a few

THe proof is in the pudding right here thanks for helping on the spot Mark.

Peter.

 

[flexi]

Lovely pens,,,,,, I have the bullets and cases, just dont have the lathe,,,,,or skill level,,,, Yet

Cheers
Ray

Most of this can be done with a drill press....i have a reloading press as well, so i can use once fired brass (neck expands on fireing).... i can even polish with the press.

 

[Ray7756]

Most of this can be done with a drill press....i have a reloading press as well, so i can use once fired brass (neck expands on fireing).... i can even polish with the press.

I do a lot of deer stalking ( as oposed to the other kind of stalking) so reload my own ammo cases I sell are all full length resized so factory size deprimed and polished in my wet tumbler, send them off with fmj target bullets ( no good for stalking) I have a pillar drill so in theory i coud make pens with what i have but want to wait till i get a lathe and learn on the lathe spending lots of time on youtube watching how to do it videos , the turning is not the problem as i have experience on lathes before, so not to likeley to injure myself , concentrating on learning the finishing techniques as from what i think i know this is the most dificult part to get right

Cheers
Ray

 

[hawkeyefxr]

View attachment 34120
Just a few

Wow they are beauties.

 

[Lons]

The ones that go quickest when I have them have wood upper barrel and cut shell end caps as those on the left but they take a lot longer to make. I don't use slimline nibs any more as I think they look naff.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

That's all I had in my box to hand. Would like to make a rollerblading bullet pen but need to look as what there is that is suitable.

 

[flexi]

I have done the bigger cals as fountain and rollerball
These are .500 Nitro express with an Omega kit fitted.....PSI do a .50BMG as a rollerball kit
I know Les builds his .50 from scratch and will take rollerballs

 

[wm460]