Squaring blanks

[alan morrison]

I am interested in what people have found to be their best way to square blanks.
I am aware that there are many ways to skin a cat but only a few really successful ways.
I work with a 7mm barrel trimmer in the pillar drill which needs to be sharpened frequently and only good for 7mm and take care not to go too deep
Also use a disc sander, the table of which refuses to stay at 90 degrees.
What works best for you?

Alan

 

[wm460]

This is what I did, look for pics in last post.


https://www.penturners.co.uk/pen-making-accessories/410-my-pen-sander.html

 

[fortress]

I never use a barrel trimmer, they can be brutal on blanks, especially acrylics, so I use the sanding disc with the blank held against the slide fence.

 

[Les ELm]

I use my disc sander and sometimes my razor sharp pen mill.

Les

 

[Phil Dart]

I'm a staunch member of the Barrel Trimmer Brotherhood. Yes, you have to keep it sharp, but I have seen an awful lot of blanks from the Disk Sander Deserters that are almost but not quite square, and almost but not quite the right length.

The six bladed trimmers are absolutely useless in my opinion because they're impossible to sharpen. The four bladed versions are good, and the best one I've seen comes from Turners Retreat, who also have a large selection of different shafts for different kits, which you can also sleeve if a shaft doesn't quite fit a particular kit. I made a small jig to fit on my Pro-edge, which makes sharpening it a doddle, and my jig is arranged so that the grind is slightly convex, which then leaves a slightly concave trim on the end of the blank. That means the components have no choiceh but to butt up to the blank at the very edges, without any risk of not meeting, or some small element of something that shouldn't be there getting in the way.

 

[alan morrison]

This is what I did, look for pics in last post.


My Pen Sander

I looked up your photographs you mentioned and only got pictures of cats saying " photos not available "

 

[alan morrison]

I looked up your photographs you mentioned and only got pictures of cats saying " photos not available "

Sorry Mark I just found your photos and will try something like that
Many thanks
Alan

 

[Dalboy]

When I make pens I still use a barrel trimmer and also something like Mark with a sanding disc in the chuck and a drill chuck in the tailstock to hold transfer punches for odd sizes

 

[Morse]

I'm a staunch member of the Barrel Trimmer Brotherhood. Yes, you have to keep it sharp, but I have seen an awful lot of blanks from the Disk Sander Deserters that are almost but not quite square, and almost but not quite the right length.

Hi I made a small jig to fit on my Pro-edge, which makes sharpening it a doddle, and my jig is arranged so that the grind is slightly convex, which then leaves a slightly concave trim on the end of the blank. That means the components have no choiceh but to butt up to the blank at the very edges, without any risk of not meeting, or some small element of something that shouldn't be there getting in the way.

Ahh but , if your using acrylic the pen barrel walls are so thin on the “concave” edges, that with just a slight to much pressure on the assembly it will crack.

Dave

 

[Phil Dart]

I've never found that to be the case Dave. On an un-turned 1 inch blank, the "concaveness" is probably about a millimetre, from the edge of the blank to the centrepoint of the tube, so by the time the blank is turned, the difference in height between outer and inner edges is minimal - but importantly, it's still concave. I can see the point you're making, but I don't ever recall crumbling a blank because of it.

 

[Morse]

Phil, I don't want to hijack Alan's excellent post.
I'll start another thread "Trying to rectify our mistakes"

Dave

 

[alan morrison]

The four bladed versions are good, and the best one I've seen comes from Turners Retreat, who also have a large selection of different shafts for different kits, which you can also sleeve if a shaft doesn't quite fit a particular kit.

I have a 4 bladed version and for the life of me cannot remember where I purchased it. I sharpen it on a flat diamond pad. I will get some other sized shafts for it in due course.
Thanks for the info Phil.
Alan

 

[solti]

I have a Pro Edge and didn't think about using it to square blanks

Phil would you post a picture of your jig so I can understand how you get the concave on the end of the blank, thanks

 

[Frederick]

Hi all

Sometimes I turn a blank between centres which then ensures the tube sits parallel within the blank. Then square the ends carefully on a bench sander. Of course the bench sander jig has to be perfect. Just my way of doing it. I don't often use a barrel trimmer, not there is anything wrong with them; just the way I do things.

Cheers
Frederick

 

[Phil Dart]

I have a Pro Edge and didn't think about using it to square blanks

Phil would you post a picture of your jig so I can understand how you get the concave on the end of the blank, thanks

I use my pro-edge to sharpen my barrel trimmer Roy, I don't use it to trim the blanks. My jig is still in a box somewhere after my move, but I've found these old photos which I took for someone a few years ago. I still use the same jig, but it's been modified a wee bit since these photos, just to improve how the trimmer sits on it, to make it a bit more stable. I'll take some more photos of it when I dig it out sometime soon.

Top view.
The block in the centre, although it doesn't show very well in the photo, is actually angled on the base so that its nearer the right at the belt, and nearer the left furthest from the belt. That's what positions the trimmer so that the grind ends up concave. The trimmer goes to the right of the block, the blade being shrapened is parallel to the base, and the perpendicular blade that points down tucks in and butts up against the edge of the machine, which ensures that parallel blade is indeed parallel. The 60 is to remind me where to set the pro-edge table, and the hole is just to hang it up in the workshop. The small fillet on the left is to support a piece underneath that makes sure the jig is in the right place each time, which you can see on the next photo.




Underside view.
The strip across the middle locates in the groove on the pro-edge table, and the strip on the right butts up against the edge of the table to make sure its in the right place each time. The strip at the bottom was a modification to alter the angle of the jig on the table slightly. I decided that 60 degrees was not ideal and wanted to reduce it slightly. I think that strip makes about 50 degrees




Side view

 

[solti]

Hi Phil, Thanks for the pictures of your jig and explanation of how it is used, it's got me thinking.

Re squaring the end of the blank on the ProEdge. I am going to try using the outside edge of the Standard Gouge Jig, table set at 90 degrees.

 

[Penpal]

A simple 50mm square 150 mm long hardwood stick drilled to take a smooth fit rod at right angles all round hand held in your gouge jig would also work but I found with the plethora of sizes needed the punch sets and sander works best for me. A most simple sander can be made with and old motor and disk fitted. I chose a commercial one or really three cause my workshop is 18 metres long, room to move. Over the years assigned tasks reduce time and increase pleasure.

Peter.

 

[Phil Dart]

Hi Phil, Thanks for the pictures of your jig and explanation of how it is used, it's got me thinking.

Re squaring the end of the blank on the ProEdge. I am going to try using the outside edge of the Standard Gouge Jig, table set at 90 degrees.

You could do. There is quite a bit of play where the gouge jig slots onto the table. There is on mine anyway. Maybe quite a bit is an overstatement, but there is definitely some play.

It'll be interesting to see how you get on. Let is know Roy

 

[Terry Q]

I stopped milling about 4 years ago. This is what I use. Made by IAP member Rick Herrell (rherrell). This device is held in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock. It can be mounted in 3 positions. The device holds rods to fit the individual kits. Rods purchased at Penn State. The abrasive used to square the blanks in 80 grit Abranet. I mounted maple to a face plate, turned round and mounted industrial strength hook (hook and loop). When I clean finish from the ends of the finished blanks I load 600 grit Abranet.

Advantage of the Abranet is it doesn't load up like sand paper, easy to reposition and you can pull the Abranet off and clean the dust out of the hook with a shot of compressed air.

 

[Terry Q]

Here is a link to the tools Rick Harrell makes.

"Custom Made" penturning tools/accessories - International Association of Penturners