Startrite 352 bandsaw - looking for ideas please.

[Lons]

Any clever clogs among you lot who can brainstorm this for me?

I love my old 352 bandsaw with one niggle that's driving me nuts. The previous owner, dear friend that he was bless him, was decidedly careless with the table and managed to gouge the thing quite badly, heaven knows what he did to his blades.
It sticks out like a sore thumb and though Ive stripped it out today and temporarily filled the damage with steel weld stuff, ideally I want to alter it so I can fit removable inserts and there are only two ways I can see of doing that.


1). Cut out a square section maybe 40x 40mm of the shaped recessed part, glue or mechanically fix a support plate shaped to match the recess and make drop in inserts 40 x 40 x 5mm.

2). Cut out the whole of the shaped recess and mechanically fix a support plate to the 6 sided part under the table (suppoprt plate might need to be two part as the table splits), then make thicker inserts the full shape.

I can't work out why that recess is there in the first place. Any ideas other than those would be gratefully received and considered. better hurry up though 'cos Im going to post the question on UKW and some of those guys are quick off the mark. Tables are laid on the bench so not aligned before one of you points that out btw.

 

[Jim]

This is a first for me Bob, never seen (or noticed) a table without inserts fitted to it ..

Sorry i was no help to your question Bob .. Hopefully someone much more savvy than me will come along my friend ..

 

[Grump]

I covered mine with hardboard on the top surface, lovely smooth flat surface easily and quickly replaceable just held down with double sided tape.

 

[Doug]

Difficult to say from a photo, Jacob has a 352 I'll have a look at it tomorrow which will give me a better idea

 

[Penpal]

It would appear to be obvious the shape of the cut out would naturally follow the line provided but I would extend it on the left to give strength to the insert. I see no problems.

Peter

 

[Neil Lawton]

I think I still have the original manual at work Bob.
I can check to see if it mentions the recess, but I'm not back there till Monday.
If you want a copy I'll scan it and send you a PDF.

 

[Lons]

I think I still have the original manual at work Bob.
I can check to see if it mentions the recess, but I'm not back there till Monday.
If you want a copy I'll scan it and send you a PDF.

Thanks Neil, much appreciated. I got a handbook and parts list off the internet though and it's not up to much, yours may be the same. Very simple machines which is their strength I guess.

My saw is pretty old probably late seventies - early eighties, Startrite were very helpfull when I emailed them the serial number to check when it was made but can't tell me as apparently many of their records were lost when they moved premises. I didn't ask them about the table. Some of the later 352s seem to have round inserts, I just can't fathom out why there would be a recess on the underside

 

[Jim]

Maybe something did fit in that recess at one time Bob??

 

[Lons]

Can't see how Jim as no evidence of fixing methods.

I've googled around in the last 1/2 hour and the pics I've seen of early machines shows most of them with damage similar to mine so it must be a weakness. I'm leaning towards a full 6 sided support probably alloy
and shaped phenolic inserts with a hold down screw. Peters' comment about extending the apperture in the r/h table makes sense.

 

[Grump]

May have been a generic table cast for more than one machine, either to be cut out after cast or a blank put in to make a infill.
The design of it lends itself to damage, a major reason for having replaceable inserts.

 

[Doug]

I had a good look at Jacob's saw yesterday it looks to be the same vintage

I'd have thought the damage on yours Bob relates to use of the machine when the table being has been tipped at an angle.
I had a gander underneath & it's the same arrangement.

It got me wondering as the metal is quite thin at the arched plate whether it was designed like that to allow what has happen to yours, on angled cuts the blade can have a tendency to wander, better cutting into thinner metal material rather than thick, it would also explain the arched shape

Personally I'd leave well alone, there doesn't seem a great deal to work with re opening up for a removable plate, with a possibility of the table deforming when material is removed & it's not like they will ever be a "pretty" machine, particularly this vintage. That said having used this particular saw for over 4 years now it's certainly a workhorse & whilst not having the whistles & bells of modern machines, it still a damn good saw.

I'd use it for what it is, a good tool with signs of a hard history :yo:

 

[Lons]

Yep that's all good advice Doug I'll think long and hard before doing anything drastic, many thanks for looking, Jacobs is exactly the same as mine.

I know it's just cosmetic but it does look a bit better now filled though might need a bit more fill. One of the reasons for wanting an infill is so I can reduce the gap between blade and table for straight cuts and I can make any number to suit blade and requirement. I would rarely if ever make angled cuts as I have other machines for that.

Brians' suggestion of hardboard (could use tuffnol or plastic) is good but would cause problems with the fence and mitre guide.

 

[Grump]

Brians' suggestion of hardboard (could use tuffnol or plastic) is good but would cause problems with the fence and mitre guide.

Never did with mine, simply cut a thin strip and stuck it in the slot raising the whole table by 5mm or so.
If you have a T-slot stick packer between the slider and radius.

 

[Lons]

thanks Brian