Still having issues

[Steve68]

With recommendation from some of the forum members I bought the Sorby deluxe sharpener which I'm really pleased with. My skews and parting tools are super sharp, my wood chisels are like razor blades and my scissors can cut anything I put them up against. So why am I still having issues with my fingernail gouges? I mark the beveled edge with a black marker, put them in the jig, roll them left to right until all marker pen has gone and the edge is clean. But when I turn a (acrylic especially) blank they still feel like they have a slightly dull edge and I don't get those lovely ribbons of material flying off the blank when cutting. Unless I use the skew of course. They seem to dig into the blank so easily even when making light passes. My larger gouge is a Sorby and the smaller is Record Power so not cheapy cheap.

I know it must be me and not the machine.

 

[fortress]

I think you are right Steven, it must be your technique, your tools are up to the task, they are sharp and ready to go. Obviously we cannot see what is wrong with your approach, but you do need to seek practical help. Personally I would not use a fingernail gouge for pens because they only have a small pointy business end, that could explain the digging in.
I hope you can overcome your issues soon.

 

[Steve68]

Thanks John. I only have fingernail gouges and never tried any other but I suppose I could get myself a bowl gouge and give that a go

 

[fortress]

Steven, I use a 3/4” roughing gouge for wood and a 15mm round Carbide cutter for acrylic.

 

[Steve68]

I've never used a carbide cutter. I'll be dropping into a local hardware shop tomorrow for a look around and pick up some Sierra bushes, not sure if they'll have a carbide cutter. I saw a few gouges etc but nothing too fancy.

 

[Penpal]

Thanks John. I only have fingernail gouges and never tried any other but I suppose I could get myself a bowl gouge and give that a go

Go on mate you will never regret it.

Peter.

 

[alpha1]

I am in the same boat. I am getting better with gouges. Im convinced its my technique that's wrong. Youtube is a good source for instructional videos. I have just bought a 10m round carbide gouge from this guy Our Carbide Wood Turning Tools are hand crafted and are economical priced and are ideal for pen and bowl turners alike I am going to give it a try to morrow. This pen business takes over your life but it's great fun and a real buzz when it turns out right.

 

[Bammer]

Remember when using gouges, you are supposed to be rubbing the bevel.

Fingernail gouges are probably too severe for an acrylic pen, bowl gouges probably too big as well. Not all tools work for every job, why would they design so many. Can't imagine putting a bloody great bowl gouge onto a small acrylic blank.

I use a 1/2 spindle gouge 100% on wood and sometimes even 100% on acrylic depending on which type. But I do switch to skew for PR once I got it round.

 

[Phil Dart]

For myself, I struggle with fingernail gouges on acrylics too, so you're not alone. I get better results with a traditional grind gouge on acrylics, or better still, for me at least, a carbide cutter. But there again I prefer a roughing gouge and fingernail grind spindle gouge on wood. If you watch any of Palhd's videos on here, he uses a spindle gouge with a pull technique on acrylics to great effect.

I'm sure that many folks here who turn acrylics all the time may wonder what the fuss is about, but it's like all these things Steve - practice makes perfect, and its just a question of maintaining a willingness to learn, and finding the right combination of tool/technique that suits you. You are most definitely heading in the right direction though

 

[Steve68]

Thanks guys. Reading your comments has got me thinking.......

When I first mount the cut & drilled blank on the mandrel it cuts OK'ish. As the blank gets turned away and obviously becomes smaller in diameter, I feel as if my tool rest on my smaller lathe needs to be lower. "Rubbing the bevel" can't be done as the cutting edge of the tool would be above the blank itself. Does that make sense? So even at its lowest setting the rest is still a little too high sitting at the centre of the work. So that must mean I'm presenting the tool completely wrong hence the catches.

Does that sound feasible or am I looking for an excuse that isn't there?

Phil, I've seen those videos and his gouge is like a needle and he uses it to great effect. His work is fantastic. I did watch his videos wishing why my tools would cut like that, but my tools have a massive disadvantage. The big squidgy bit at the wooden end

 

[Phil Dart]

You may need to move the tool rest closer to the work too. The handle of the tool should be lower than the cutting edge, and the cutting edge should be no higher than the centre line. If the sum of the height your tool rest at its lowest plus the thickness of the bar of the tool is less than the height of the centre line, you should be able to achieve that. If not, you might want to consider either having your banjo reduced in height or investigating a shallower tool rest.

 

[Steve68]

Thanks Phil. My tool rest is close to the work and it's still at centre height so the tool is too high.

Better get the grinder out.......

 

[Penpal]

Good realization ,common problem especially with the new chunky chisels,easy fix though.

Peter.