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straight off the lathe this time I read the instructions

Pierre---

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Feb 3, 2016
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France
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Pierre
Nice pen! Avec une très jolie bague centrale...
I noticed that thuya burl with natural finish has sort of a creamy unpleasant colour. I soak them in linseed oil for a night and it's more to my taste then, the buds look emphasised.
 

Penpal

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Pierre to Pierre lots to learn for me in this conversation I find Thuya has more promise than I have acheived and will certainly try Linseed Oil.

Pierre from Central France love the pen off the lathe.

Peter.
 

silver

General dogsbody
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Jun 29, 2013
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Somewhere in Staffordshire,
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Eamonn.
Very nice pen, however "Je suis d'accord avec Pierre ' la couleur du thuya est un liitle grisée . pourrait être fait de regarder plus
profondément "

The fit looks spot on tho..:thumbs:
 

Penpal

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Peter
After all the help given by Ed in close up detail I feel any worry is unneccesary mere mortals like me would not find it a problem.

Peter.
 

Phil Dart

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Colebrooke, Devon
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Ní féidir liom a chur ar na treoracha ann ar mhaithe le mo shláinte a fhios agat. Sásta a fheiceáil an ceann seo iompaithe amach go maith

Well, everyone seems to be at it.

If at first.....Glad you've got to grips with it Pierre.
 

Pierre

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Sep 2, 2015
Posts
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Southern Central France
First Name
Pierre
Nice pen! Avec une très jolie bague centrale...
I noticed that thuya burl with natural finish has sort of a creamy unpleasant colour. I soak them in linseed oil for a night and it's more to my taste then, the buds look emphasised.

HI Pierre+++ this is interesting, when you say that you soak them in linseed oil overnight, is that linseed oil pure or boiled linseed oil? and is it after gluing in the tube or before drilling? I ask only because Thuya has a very thick and solid resinous sap being a very slow growing member of the cypress family and so normally linseed oil would be prevented from penetrating a resinous as opposed to a deciduous wood.

PG
 

Pierre---

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Feb 3, 2016
Posts
231
Location
France
First Name
Pierre
I soak nearly every pen with a "natural finish", ie sanding and polishing. Soaking can occurs any time after the last glueing (glue does not hold well on oiled wood), often at the very end after assembly: it does not hurt metal nor plastic threads. In my opinion:
- It keeps the wood fibres down, stuck to the wood, even under dashes of water, which are often visible on unoiled woods.
- It is the only finish that gets better with time, just have a look to a one century old tool-handle. It can be worked up to a very good shine on hardwoods.
- It also adds a little colour to some woods like thuya, but I wonder if a light acid wouldn't do the same. It warms up any wood because of its very light yellow colour.

For the best results, I need 3 dilutions: the first (often the only one) for soaking, diluted with 1/2 turpentine, for a deep impregnation. The second with 1/4 turpentine is supposed to full the pores (I nearly always skip this one for reason of laziness), the third with pure oil, applied with a brush for a shiny surface. Long drying time in between: at least one week in summer, more in winter. The longer the better. If I am in a hurry, I just soak it in the 50/50, wipe off the excess and that's it.

I use non boiled oil only because I can get it for cheap at any Leroy-Merlin. Boiled oil is hard to find and very expensive, the only advantage is that it dries a bit quicker. I used to add some accelerator, but this poison stinks and I don't use it any more. Turpentine is real turpentine, not a petrol spirit dilution.

On Thuya, the penetration doesn't work so well you are right, but it works. Sometimes resin comes up to the surface and changes the touch. But it is better than nothing I think.
 
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