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Tiger Myrtle on a Baron FP kit

edlea

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Today I thought I'd try my luck doing my first fountain pen. The blank and kit was part of my first order from TB.
 

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PhillH

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Nice,very nice!

I have a Baron FP to do for my first commission I hope I make as good a job of as that :pray:

What finish did you use?

Rowdy, my order took 14 days instead of usual 10, arrived this morning.
 

Neil

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The whole CA/Blo procedure is smelly, messy, and downright orrible. Blo? put on the wood first it will enhance and enrich the wood, apart from that I've never understood why the penturning community tries to apply blo with a surface (towel) that is designed to be absorbent. I know that there are several here that apply copious coats of CA. Where such a finish is necessary I have managed with a melamine lacquer. Surely the application of numerous coats is only necessary because the initial process involved putting the stuff on in such a manner that most of it ends up on the material you are using to apply it. Why not stop the lathe and wipe the stuff on and then let it set.

My logic on the use of BLO is that it is used to stop the ca bonding to the towel when the friction causes the acceleration of the curing process. But this could be way wide of the mark.
 

Jimjam66

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I've tried BLO/CA combined as I was led to believe the BLO was an accelerant for the CA. I can testify to that - I got a number of heat blisters on my fingers! :nonono:

Now I'm with Neil - I stop the lathe and apply thick CA while rotating the blank by hand. (After first applying a couple coats of thin with the lathe on just to seal the blank.). Works a treat!
 

Penpal

Grand Master
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Canberra AUSTRALIA
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Ed, You guys are singing from the same hymn sheet using Tiger Myrtle. Yes it is difficult in common with any darker timber to show in a picture the intricate dashes and darts where the title Tiger
was derived when it was named.

Tasmania is where Tiger Myrtle is found indigenous to Australia a wise choice from Timberbits.

Your progress in pens is far more rewarding as you seek out the different or unusual grain timbers. Well done.

Kind regards Peter.:thumbs:
 

edlea

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I've tried BLO/CA combined as I was led to believe the BLO was an accelerant for the CA. I can testify to that - I got a number of heat blisters on my fingers! :nonono:

Now I'm with Neil - I stop the lathe and apply thick CA while rotating the blank by hand. (After first applying a couple coats of thin with the lathe on just to seal the blank.). Works a treat!


I am using the CA/Blo method because it's the only way I have tried a CA finish in my short career as a pen turner ,it does seem to work though (most of the time) , I am copying the method of Mr Young from Canada which he demonstrates on his You Tube video .I can only surmise that the blo stops the CA from soaking into the applicator and for no other reason. I posted the link to his video on another post a few days back.
 

edlea

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Ed
I've tried BLO/CA combined as I was led to believe the BLO was an accelerant for the CA. I can testify to that - I got a number of heat blisters on my fingers! :nonono:

Now I'm with Neil - I stop the lathe and apply thick CA while rotating the blank by hand. (After first applying a couple coats of thin with the lathe on just to seal the blank.). Works a treat!


I'll try your way on my next project, David ...it's all a leaning curve for me at the moment :thumbs:
 

Jimjam66

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I'll try your way on my next project, David ...it's all a leaning curve for me at the moment :thumbs:

Ed the only drawback with applying thick CA while rotating the blank by hand is that you get bumps and ridges in the CA. Once it's dry you have to run the lathe at a slow speed and WITH A STEADY HAND use a sharp skew to round out the surface again. High pucker factor!

To be honest if CA and BLO works for you, stick with it. Sometimes you can get too much advice ... :wink:
 
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