Tool/machine tips

[Morse]

Now the winters are starting to draw in and some of us don't have the luxury of heated workshops, I
was thinking again of how to protect my tools and machines from the dreaded rust.
Over the year I've regularly waxed or oiled my tools, more to keep clean and protect.
Like the tapers on the mandrels, Jacobs chuck etc. We're not supposed to oil the tapers,as they are friction fit,
so how best to protect them?
What are your views ?

Dave

 

[fortress]

There are plenty of small electric heaters available, also gas or Paraffin. What did you do last winter Dave?

 

[Morse]

John.
Can't remember it being that bad.
I have been building up my workshop since.
My tools were stored in a "warmish garage" they are now in a cold shed. Hence the oil and wax over the past year.

Dave

 

[KevinMc]

Cold?

Not sure if this video is any help it’s funny I had just looked at it before I had read your post.

My Tips For Coping With The Winter - YouTube

Kevin

 

[Ray7756]

Do NOT use a parafin heater, burning parafin produces water, use electric, or if you can fit a wood burner in your workshop, thats what I am planining when I get the workshop built
Cheers
Ray

 

[Morse]

Ray.
You wood (yep, trying to be funny) need a wood burner up there in Scotland ��������������

Dave

 

[Penpal]

Best way for me especially on the table saw cast iron was to use the thinnest smear of Magnolia Oil. If you use too much moisture forms under it.Great on the lathe bed ,tools etc. Love idea of the totes on the video.

Peter.

 

[wm460]

Tn the wet season, when it is hot and humid I leave both ceiling fans on low in my shed. The air movement stops rust forming.

 

[pittswood]

Hi Dave,
I always use Liberon lubrication wax. Wipe it on and let it dry. I use this on all my other tools, lathe beds, planer, chisels, hand planes etc; even on morse tapers, just wipe with your hand before use.
Kelvin

 

[Frederick]

Hello Dave

I am in the same boat as you. I wax, PTFE all beds and have been known to 3in1 oil everything. I do oil MT's but wipe the tool vigorously before use. I think it's the only way. I don't use TPFE or on tapers as it is harder to remove. Not had any trouble yet, but that's not to say that I ain't gonna get any. Time will tell. It would be nice to have a very low heat in the WS and I have tried an oil heater it but it's just too expensive.

I thought of using Propane gas burners on a when needed basis but have been advised not to because this fuel produces condensation and the constant fluctuations in temperature increases the chances of condensate on cast iron beds etc. I just love Winter........sometimes.

All the best
Frederick

 

[Penpal]

WE have just passed through quite a drought with less rain in the future for this year that has helped with rust this last winter. All the best for yours,constant vigilance pays.

Peter.

 

[Lons]

I also use wax including the morse tapers but I give the tapers a quick clean with rubbing alcohol before use, that strips the wax easily.

 

[Penpal]

A good friend used WD40 all the time on his wood lathe etc,never a slip on the rail locking and he turned massive bowls and platters . His machines looked like new.

Peter.

 

[Gregory Hardy]

Not sure about availability there (or elsewhere), but her in the Colonies, we have a product called WD-40. Thin spray oil. (Don't cook with it, please.) Tools that are going into cold storage for me get lightly sprayed and put in a plastic tote. When it's time to use, a simple quick wipe down and ready.
(And maybe spray canola cooking oil would work too, but I would save that for cooking.)

 

[bigbob]

I noticed a lot less rust on tools after I insulated my shed with bubble wrap with foil in it seems to keep a lot of the moisture away plus the shed is easier to heat and does not use as much electricity. As a bonus on the very rare occasions that we get hot weather up in the Highlands it keeps the shed cool. I use a combination of stuff to protect my tools usually paste wax once the surfaces have been cleaned with WD40 and a window scraper. On my dovetail and Japanese saws plus chisels and planes I use the oil in a can method as suggested by Paul Sellars vid below: -

How to make a Rag-in-a-can Oiler | Paul Sellers - YouTube

 

[21William]

I sprayed WD40 on my milling machine table, two weeks later and it was covered with rust. Never again.

 

[bigbob]

Hi William I think WD40 is good at initially clearing rust but you do need another coating of wax or something to stop the moisture getting on the surface. I have used white spirit to good effect to clean the rust before, but you still need to put an extra layer on even if it car polish. If it is a one stop spray on solution like WD40 you want the only one I have used which is very good is ACF 50 but it is very expensive I used to use this on my motorbikes and they kept them mostly immune to salt and other rust makers.

 

[Penpal]

Spraying is doubly effective if wiped over carefully otherwise it tends to blob on not stick on as does Camelia Oil if I remember correctly it says wiped over to create a thin film works best.

Peter.

 

[Dalboy]

I use an electric greenhouse heater and keep the temperature just above freezing, it has a thermostat on it so can set a minimum and maximum temperature that way once it reaches the desired temperature it turns off. It may not make the shed warm enough to work in but it does keep the rust at bay. I also have a second heater which I can turn on in the morning and a couple of hours later comfortable enough to turn that one off

 

[Pierre]

If you are looking for corrosion control, you could try here Shield Technology Corrosion Control Products
PG