I use CA exclusively, and I like Fiona's process - not too different to my own. I don't use BLO anymore as it tends to yellow the wood and when the CA does go off it cooks - no problem for the blank but if you have any on your finger you will get blisters. I have recently switched from the thicker mitre glue to the very watery stuff Poundland sell at four bottles for a quid. The finish I am getting with that is like glass.
Just a warning - accelerator can cause the glue to set too quickly and it will 'boil' - going cloudy and milky in the process. So if you are going to use accelerator: spray from a distance, be sparing and watch the finish closely - any clouding must be sanded off immediately or else the next layer of finish will seal it in. I tend to wait a minute or so after applying the finish before spraying which helps me.
One last thing - CA finishes are heat sensitive so if you take sandpaper to a finished blank and don't watch the heat buildup you will ruin the finish. I sand wet after applying anything up to 12 coats of CA BUT ... water will cause the CA to boil if it hasn't gone off yet! So make sure the CA is dry and set before wet sanding. And DON'T be tempted to wet sand between coats - the slightest smell of moisture will set off the next coat. Between coats must be done dry and carefully so as not to overheat the finish. I very rarely sand between coats - usually only if I have had to fill an irregularity with thicker CA and it has left a raised lump. Choose a higher grade of paper than your instincts tell you - I only ever use 600 grit between coats, I can always go down to 400 if the lump is being stubborn but I hardly ever have to.
